Generation Specific > 2nd Generation Specific

s4 n/a with s5 n/a swap

(1/6) > >>

RX-7racer:
soo about a week ago i picked up an s5 n/a engine with roughly 60000 miles on a rebulid, transmission, driveshaft, ecu, and harness for $375. Engine was really dirty but seems to be in good condition otherwise. Unfortunately converting completely to s5 involves more than what i have and the cost to obtain the rest is to much right now. So i did some research and found that i can swap in just the s5 block, manifolds, and fuel rails (the main parts improved from s4 to s5) as long as i retain the s4 throttle body w/TPS, s4 ecu, AFM/intake tube, OMP (which im gonna remove to run premix), wiring harness with injectors, and front cover with water pump. While i have everything apart im going mad cleaning everything to make it look near new and fixing any broken lines and replacing all the vacuum lines and removing emissions stuff/ installing appropriate blockoff plates. Also im gonna get the atkins aux port sleeves (better flow) to replace the carbon crusted stock sleeves. as of right now i have it stripped down to the block. ill be reassembling everything after its all clean and i get all new gaskets, vacuum lines, and fuel lines (removing vacuum rack for emissions)
 so thats my story as of now.

but i do have a couple questions. anybody know of a good carbon remover? and also with my current pojected setup what kinda power do you guys think ill be making? im hoping for about 170-175, but thats prolly a reach with a 60000 mile motor, stock exhaust and s4 electronics.

gzfqy6:
I have had pretty good luck with Sea Foam........ available at most auto parts places.

RX-7racer:
do the parts need to be soaked in it, or can it be sprayed on and scrubbed away after a few minutes?

Chad D.:
you can spray and scrub off after a bit
for the inside.
take the plugs out, fill the chambers by manually turning the crank, let it sit for a bit, put a little bit of 2cy in there, crank it again, put the plugs in and "here comes smokey!"
 ;D

awfc3s:
This could be a "good" thing or a "bad" thing. I've seen seafoam work on a rotary engine as well as completely destroy one. The main focus of seafoam is to remove carbon correct?? Well after years of cycles that same carbon build up is more than likely holding your apex seals in their place. So the carbon in that case is actually working in your favor. Now if this engine has 60,000 original miles on it then "me" personally wouldn't do this because that means the engine has been sitting around collecting carbon deposits, I would just let the engine do its thing. Now, if you are taking apart the entire engine and are rebuilding it then by all means go for it. Not trying to scare you but I have seen this happen first hand. It's your car. Like I said there is a good and bad to everything...

Just my 2 cents

Good luck bro, keep us posted

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page