Generation Specific > 3rd Generation Specific

Fuel cut, hesitation, breaking up???

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ITSWILL:
If it's only under load I guess is could be pre igniting. However I would t expect it unless you were really boosting.

awfc3s:
So this is an account of everything from this past weekend:

Thursday morning 4/26: Drove car to work in the (30 miles). No problems got into boost maybe 2 times.

Thursday afternoon 4/26: Drove home from work (30 miles). No problems. Boosted very little. Stopped to get gas before getting to house. Put 14 oz of Idemitsu premix in the tank, but only 9 gallons of fuel went in (gauge reads 1/4 lower than what it should, maybe bent float on pump).

Thursday evening 4/26: Drove to movies (20 miles). Very little time spent in boost. No problems. Parked car for 3 hours.

Thursday night 4/26: Leaving movies. Started car. Exhaust smoked a little more than normal on cold start, didn't think much of it. Drove fine until under load and in boost. Started breaking up/misfiring throughout rpm range under boost. Thought I might have gotten bad fuel or I over premixed. stopped at gas station to add an additional 2.5 gallons to help even out the amount of premix. Still getting breaking up. Got home and parked car. Idle sounded "off" slightly. Shut car down and went in for the night.

Friday evening 4/27: Pulled spark plugs. They were "dirty", but didn't look fouled. Changed plugs anyways, 9's on all 4. Checked spark by holding plug near ground on all wires. Had spark. Went for test drive. Still breaking up. AFR's were reading 10s-11s under boost. Engine temp was fine. Oil pressure was about 100 under full throttle. next I decided to drain the fuel tank. I thought, maybe it was bad fuel or I accidentally put in 87 just out of habit from the daily. Drained tank and put 2 gallons of new 93 fuel in with 0.75 oz/gal of premix. Took it for a drive. Still breaking up. Now I am building so much crankcase pressure that I blew the dipstick up and oil shot everywhere under the hood. Next I checked compression on both rotors only on the leading plugs. Compression gauge is cheap and doesn't read full pressure (tested against 160 psi of air pressure and it read 120 psi). Got even bumps on each face on both rotors at 60 psi (remember gauge reads low so should be 100 psi). If they indeed were at 60 psi, I doubt the car would even start or be able to stay running under its own power.

Saturday morning 4/28: Tested resistance of leading coil. FSM states plug pins should read below 1 ohm. I got 1.5 ohms. High tension leads should read between 9.6 and 16 ohms I got 12.25 ohms. I thought the coil was the problem, but then I tested the 2 trailing coils and got the same readings on the electrical connection of 1.5 ohms. I don't think that all 3 of my coils could be bad and have failed at the same time.

Sunday 4/29: Took oil cap off and disconnected out line from catch can going to turbo inlet. Zip tied a paper towel around both locations to help relieve pressure build up. Test drove. Still breaking up, but dip stick stayed in. Towels not covered in oil. Hooked laptop up to Haltech to try and see if there was any data that would scream at me. I really don't know much of what I was looking at, so not sure it did me any good. Went for a test run and did some data logging. Car is running super rough at this point (sounds like it's firing on one rotor). Sounds like it has a cam. Getting harder to start without giving it a little throttle. Will also die after running on its own power for several minutes. Decided to change the fuel filter. Test run, nothing changed except I blew oil all over my engine bay again (soaked throw the paper towel). I took the intake side off of the throttle body and saw no oil in the intercooler piping or intake. I did see oil behind the butterfly valves on the throttle body (engine side). No oil on the turbo side either. Turbo forward (still twin ran in parallel) had no play or oil on turbine. No oil on intercooler piping for hot side. Did another compression test and got same results as before. Last thing I checked was the brass filter on the catch can. Didn't see anything really clogging the filter or that screamed at me there was an issue. There are a few things that I didn't get a chance to test yet. The resistance of the plug wires and the igniter. Again, I think I have 2 separate issues now, but I am at a complete loss.

Including a picture of a data log run. The lean peaks are from letting off (lean out on decel is still activated)

awfc3s:
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login - driving (hard to hear the breaking up, but it's there trust me)

You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login - idling

murz:
Any backfiring/ more backfiring than normal? Crank sensor come loose or something?

awfc3s:
No backfiring. All sensors seem to be plugged in and where they need to be.

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