Michigan Rotary Club
Generation Specific => 2nd Generation Specific => : awfc3s November 01, 2010, 02:38:20 PM
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Alright so after working out a ton of bugs in the car, timing, idle, all that stuff, my car started smoking more than usual. I knew that the car was running a lil more rich from the repairs. Saturday night, however, when i got home the car was smoking like someone replaced my exhaust system with a smoke machine, and wouldnt stop what so ever. so upon doing a lil thinking and research on what was done in the repairs I remembered that i blocked off an evap line on the block (under the UIM drivers side) anyways i am almost positive that that line originally went to the OMP which is no longer there. After contemplating why the car was smoking I realized that the car was building up too much oil pressure and basically bypassing the oil control rings on the rotors. So in reality the motor was just pouring oil into the combustion chamber. I took the plug off and ran the line to my catch can, since then almost all of the smoke is gone. there is still some smoke every once and awhile, im thinking its because the engine is burning off the remaining oil left over on the rotor housings, and its a rotary (i hope). also i tweaked with the variable resistor by jumping the green check connector by the battery (FSM) hopefully this will change the richness of the idle and get that smoke out of there. All in all, dont block off that line.
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Ok so I'm not convinced this is working seeing as how every time I idle at a light smoke just billows out uncontrollably and goes away when I take off. Hmm...
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I hope you can figure it out soon.
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First of all, you need to determine the type of smoke. Is it oil? Fuel? Or Coolant?
Based on the description, it sounds to me like you've lost a coolant seal. Assuming you are running antifreeze in the radiator, see if the exhaust smells like maple syrup.
If you have blown a coolant seal, then you might be lucky that it is going out through the exhaust system, rather than having combustion gasses going into the radiator. I say lucky because I know of an easy fix for that if you are interested.
A couple of years ago, I installed a used low mileage 12a. Once I started it up, it started pouring the coolant straight out the exhaust pipe. Pissed as hell, and unwilling to pull the motor again, I sought other solutions. What I found was a radiator sealant called Alumaseal. You can find it at any parts store for around $4.00 I added it to the radiator, and within a half hour the problem was gone. That was over 20,000 miles ago and that motor is still running like a top.
Do not use a Block Sealant for this issue though. That's like using a sledge hammer where a scalpel will do. Block sealants will fill your motor with crud and potentially block coolant passages.
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Its a blueish smoke. Pretty sure its oil. Smells like burning 2 cycle lol. Doesn't smell sweet.
Its quite odd. After unplugging the evap line it still smokes. It seems to only happen at idle after the car warms up. Not exactly sure if it's happening while driving although I don't see any smoke when i am. Oil pressure gauge seems to be consistent (oem)
I do notice under full throttle and boost, after I let off it sounds like the turbo is fluttering behind the sound of the bov. Possibly turbo going bad? Oil seals, bearings?
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your turbo is not happy, test the oil pressure as well, make sure your gauge is reading correctly.
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Turbo is happy... It was my makeshift catch can that i had. Got a nice new one in there and the smoke is gone. Lines were getting pinched shut.
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well thats good to hear
if you find a hydraulics store that sells fittings, highlow parts, and nylon hose. They sell a high temp flexible hose thats great and relatively inexpensive.
ive seen some cars that have used the same hose for oil cooler lines that where far cheaper than ss braided.
it does not pinch so easily, if you would like some i have extra ill bring with me sometime. should not have the same problem.
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Yea, the crankcase vent system can cause all sorts of problems like that especially in turbo cars, b/c if the turbo drain isn't at close to atmospheric it'll just push all sorts of oil into the turbine where you'll have lots of smoke problems. I got the oil cooler lines re-done at a local hydraulic shop around the Troy area 2 years ago, and it was much, much cheaper than stock replacements (I think it was about $40 total), and they're holding up great. I can't for the life of me remember the name of the place though.