Michigan Rotary Club

Generation Specific => Other Car Projects (Non-Rotary) => : toplessFC3Sman May 30, 2015, 08:10:08 PM

: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman May 30, 2015, 08:10:08 PM
Since I didn't notice this forum before, I'm only now making a post for the rest of the fleet. Those are: my DD - an '06 Saab 9-3, Helen's car - a '91 Toyota Celica, my Mom's car - an '03 Pontiac Vibe, my Brother's car - a 2002 Ford Focus Wagon, the motorcycle - a '73 Honda CL350, and the scooter - an '88? Yamaha Razz

Anyhow, this past week I was visiting my family back in NJ, so it was their cars in the spotlight.  Once a year I usually do a tune-up and some minor things, which happened again this year, but the big project was the front bumper of the Vibe. My mom had gotten into a minor fender-bender over the winter which had shattered the bumper cover and caused some minor damage to the headlight, fender, and radiator support.  Insurance was low-balling her severely on the value of the car, and we ended up deciding to do the repair ourselves.  Anyhow, after gluing some of the headlight mounting ears back on & supporting them with additional plastic, knocking out the rad support and various headlight & bumper brackets back into their approximate shapes, and painting the exposed metal, it was on to the bumper cover itself.  Well... the end results speak for themselves, including the rust repair around the headlights for some assorted dents.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mKZp4DVUDqs/VWia3FyYMJI/AAAAAAAADR0/csjVovTBLJ8/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B5)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ktWpwXi-EnM/VWia3Ooi_YI/AAAAAAAADRs/PKCKbOswO4Q/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B4)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aVpk7-vGIvo/VWia3LAYMQI/AAAAAAAADRk/jTEBxStvC1g/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B3)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XmzKXfqd_0M/VWia3JX6_EI/AAAAAAAADRc/0BK-nI-WO2w/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B2)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3fsK5ckKn3M/VWia3ACE8WI/AAAAAAAADRU/VJz8ZZdsa0k/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B1)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman May 30, 2015, 08:28:13 PM
Prior to leaving to visit my family and in preparation for a driving event, there was a bunch of suspension work done on the Saab.  I wanted to stiffen up the damping a little bit without losing ride height or suspension travel, so I got a set of Bilstein HD B6's to use with the stock springs. Some of the bushings & front ball joints were worn too, so those got attention at the same time. These are write-ups that I did for SaabCentral on the various jobs.

After almost 160k miles, plenty of rough MI winters with lots of potholes, and a couple of ice racing events each year, the OEM dampers had thrown in the towel, with the rears especially starting to make that "sucking a milkshake through a straw" noise. I eventually decided to go with the B6 over the B4 or another OEM replacement to help with body roll & motion during a track day coming up in a couple months, plus I liked how solidly built they are. No first impressions yet, but here's the journey for installing them. Sorry for the lack of pictures removing the front struts, I forgot to take them until it was too late.

Removing the front McPherson struts is pretty straightforward, with all the usual disclaimers of "if you don't feel comfortable doing the work, then take it to someone", "cars can hurt you", "I'm not responsible for what you do with your car", "Only work on the car when it is securely supported by jack stands", "Wear eye protection", "Eat your cheerios" etc. Since I was doing some other work at the same time, I got the whole car off the ground & removed all the wheels first.

To remove the front struts, you need to support the end of the lower control arm & wheel hub so that they don't droop and damage the brake hose or pull the driveshaft out of the transmission. Next, remove the brake line and unbolt the wheel-speed-sensor wiring & clip from the bracket on the strut. Then, unscrew the sway bar link from it's bracket on the strut. This can be more challenging since you need to hold the stud with an allen key while unscrewing the outside nut with an open-ended wrench. Invariably these have become a bit rusted, so some penetrating oil like "P B Blaster" helps a lot.

At this point, since I was disassembling the strut assembly, I chose to loosen the main nut on the shock's shaft with the strut still solidly held in the chassis. Only break it loose and maybe unscrew it one thread, since the spring is still compressed and can do a lot of damage if it's energy was released! This nut is the only thing holding the strut together! This is another case where you need to hold the shaft with an allen key & spin the nut, but since it's buried in the upper strut mount, a different solution must be used:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3kGkGpvDw2s/VT2ve-gMHII/AAAAAAAADMY/igPrhHVRXRM/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B16)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cnGmgqqruks/VT2ve2KR1cI/AAAAAAAADMQ/ea8V9CAIWYA/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B15)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-razPUZDAUM8/VT2ve00VPNI/AAAAAAAADMA/QEK4NNSEVo0/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B13)

These were shot when the strut was already off the car, since I forgot to take pictures during disassembly. To make this possible, I was using a 1/2" drive socket for more room in the middle, and had to file down part of the allen key socket so that it would fit through the drive hole and spin freely.

Now with that nut loosened, remove the two 19mm nuts holding the strut to the wheel hub, and the three 12mm nuts holding the strut top mount to the chassis. With a little bit of persuasion, the strut assembly should now come right out! I used a couple zip-ties at this point between the brake line bracket on the chassis & the now-empty bolt holes for the strut on the wheel hub to keep the hub from flopping outwards and stressing the rubber brake line or pulling the driveshaft out of the transmission.

Now time for the spring compressors to keep the spring compressed and allow you to remove that nut from the top of the strut mount! Another disclaimer here: This is probably the most dangerous part of the job (besides jacking up & supporting the car), since if the spring slips, it can very easily launch unsecured pieces of the strut into your face, body, or the surroundings, sever your fingers, pull your hair and give you a wet willy. Inspect the spring compressors before using them for cracks, binding, or other signs of damage, make sure that they're securely on the spring 180 degrees apart to evenly compress it, and use those little hooks or bands to secure the compressor to the spring. Treat the compressed spring very gently, maybe with a nice walk on the beach with wine at sunset. I used some shop towels between the spring compressor & the spring to prevent scraping off paint on the spring, especially since our cars are known for binding & rusting springs (usually due to the strut-top bearing seizing).
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B8xO2xFk0ZY/VT2ve6IQzuI/AAAAAAAADMo/jszUAy2ETag/w480-h640-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B12)

Compress the spring evenly on both sides until the top mount is loose and you can freely rattle it and the bearing. Don't point either end of it at yourself, just in case! Remove the nut from the top as described above, lift off the top mount & bearing, and take the spring itself off of the shock (gently!). Disassembled, from left to right (and roughly top to bottom when assembled) is the shock assembly, the still-compressed spring (with it's rubber bottom-end protector on - always use rubber protection!), the dust boot (with rubber protection for the top-end of the spring), the bump-stop that rides on the shock's shaft, the top bearing, and the top mount.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KLjw6ch0JBM/VT2ve3-gJNI/AAAAAAAADLw/QbIPR5HlG10/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B11)

A side-by-side comparison of the old shocks with the new - look at how much beefier the main shaft is on the Bilstein. This helps to contribute to it's stiffness, since side loads on the suspension put the shaft and the piston within the shock into bending. Overall, this will reduce the compliance in the front suspension.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MPPdbzC5Mi4/VT2ve7agl6I/AAAAAAAADLo/aOpiUDtC_os/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B10)

The much larger shaft means that the OEM bump stops or any replacements won't fit, but fortunately the Bilstein B6's have the bump-stop built into the shock internally, so external ones aren't necessary. However, the dust guard is still very important to keep debris off of the polished shaft where it would interfere with the shock's seal and ultimately it's reliability. Plus, the OEM one has the spring's top rubber isolator built in, so I wanted to keep it. Unfortunately, it wasn't long enough to cover the entire shaft on it's own (OEM had a ring to hold the bottom of the rubber accordian, but the Bilstein didn't), and had gotten some holes in it, so it needed some mending.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R2uAOYD_dhQ/VT2ve9M0f7I/AAAAAAAADLA/XEeV17vejCg/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B5)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d2KzAcD5Zho/VT2ve7rtIhI/AAAAAAAADLg/QdtprKTYRxw/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B9)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman May 30, 2015, 08:33:27 PM
Holes! I cut the bottom 4 accordian creases off, and used them to wrap around where the holes were higher up, taking care to avoid kinking the accordian & keeping it functional. Then, I stretched the bottom of the rubber one over the top of a new plastic replacement accordian to lengthen the whole thing so that it would cover the whole shaft
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VfxmG9VlYIw/VT2ve4iEXVI/AAAAAAAADLI/YSmfuS9MzNA/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B6)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2f-QVnlLCEA/VT2ve8emPzI/AAAAAAAADM8/bV0FtobYAhA/w480-h640-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B7)

The last thing I did before re-assembly (which I forgot to take pictures of, again) was to take off the rubber spring protector/isolator from the bottom of the spring, and clean it & the bottom of the spring out thoroughly with WD-40. There was a little bit of paint flaking & surface rust down under the isolator where dirt & moisture get trapped, so after cleaning I greased everything up thoroughly with some general purpose silicone grease (Sil-glyde; I use it on suspension bushings, squeaky joints & tracks, all sorts of stuff), and re-assembled. This grease is thick enough that it won't run, and it will help to protect the spring from moisture & debris. I also applied some to the top of the spring where it meets the rubber isolator on the accordian.

Now it's time for reassembly; the reverse of disassembly. Make sure you align the bottom of the spring with the groove in the strut so it will be seated correctly and won't slip in the future. Then, slide the accordian down the middle of the spring around the shock's shaft, drop in the top bearing with the flat side up (it should fit snugly inside the top coil of the spring with the rubber isolator between it & the coil), and then put the strut top back on. Put the top nut back on, using the same method as removal. I prefer to just get the nut fully engaged and snug, and then fully tighten it once it's back on the car and held in place by the chassis. Even though I replaced the strut-top bearings on the front about 60k miles ago, they can fail unexpectedly and cause the springs to break when trying to steer, so as cheap insurance I replaced them and the strut top bushings/plates too. Hey, its a lot easier when everything's already apart.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T9Ounob--dg/VT2ve-rR-KI/AAAAAAAADM0/uMxaSSXfa5M/w480-h640-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B8)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PhfWlAZId60/VT2ve7sqxqI/AAAAAAAADK4/D_SeAXd-q8U/w480-h640-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B4)

Re-installing it in the car is the reverse of disassembly - I find that it's easiest to hang it from the bolts on top, then get the ears of the strut over the wheel hub and use the jack that's supporting the hub from below to push it up or down to make the bottom holes align. Use some anti-sieze on all the bolts to keep them from getting stuck next time; the stuff is worth its weight in gold on the underside of a car exposed to salt, water & corrosion! In my case, I also installed one of those camber bolts in the top hole to allow a little bit more negative camber in preparation for the track day - a front-heavy, FWD car will tend to roll over it's front tires under cornering more, so lets try to get at least some of that mitigated with more negative camber.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PXUyyf_owpg/VT2veyewnmI/AAAAAAAADKw/pdFanmNVSxw/w480-h640-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B3)

In comparison, the rears were very simple! Remove the wheels (since I already had the car completely in the air & supported with jack stands), support the suspension from underneath with a jack, and unbolt the strut. It's 3 E14 Torx-head bolts on top, and one E20 Torx bolt below. My E20 socket had broken, but a 16mm 12-point socket worked fine in a pinch. The penetrating oil worked well here too, especially spraying into the pocket behind the top three bolts to get some on the ends of the threads - these three bolts were really gummed up. Maybe they had loc-tite on them from the factory, or maybe just because two of the three were exposed to road-gunk along most of their length due to the mount design? I don't know, but either way I ran a tap through the holes and a die over the bolts to clean them up, and then coated them liberally with anti-sieze (fantastic stuff!). Removing the top mount from the rear OEM shocks was very straightforward - hold the nut with a 17mm open wrench and turn the 7mm hex with a ratchet & socket. Penetrating oil & anti-sieze were used here too. The bilsteins had a female allen head in the top of the shaft instead of a male allen head, so a different socket was used for reassembly.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bUE_kiDN4-4/VT2ve3u26jI/AAAAAAAADKo/oTpW2EKYD4U/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B2)

The one snag was when the top mount on the driver's side just crumbled when disassembling it! Since I definitely didn't want to reuse it in that condition, I had to wait for two new top mounts. If one is that bad, the other may not have been far behind, so lets do them both at the same time.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UzGuWISjKcs/VT2ve1DGMvI/AAAAAAAADKg/Od1DDAhwTPQ/w640-h480-no/Saab%2B9-3%2B-%2B1)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman May 30, 2015, 08:38:02 PM
After replacing the shocks & struts a few weeks ago, my wife took the car to get aligned & the shop said that the rear lateral trailing arms were bad and they couldn't do it. I got in there a few weekends ago to check it out, and there was a lot of play in the rubber bushings that are pressed into the steel plate lateral arm, and some play in the upper transverse arms. Time for replacement!

This is on a 2006 2.0T FWD sedan with 160k miles.

If you're just removing & replacing the parts, you'll need a jack & jack stands, E14, E18 & E20 torx sockets, 18mm & 20?mm wrench & sockets, and a variety of extensions & U-joints. If you're actually replacing the bushings in the arms, then a variety of pipes/tubes of various sizes (or large sockets, etc) to set up the press, and a press, larger vice, or maybe a set of sturdy C-clamps.

Anyhow, on to the suspension. First, get your trusty co-worker to oversee the progress
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K9ruVBbygGM/VVfFzWnxQcI/AAAAAAAADOo/Z6ySOjrMKak/w480-h640-no/15%2B-%2B4)

Now, the first part that is getting replaced is the lateral link's front bushing, which requires removing the lateral link. This is the big steel plate that trails back to the hub assembly from underneath the rear doors, which is where the bushing is located.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I3nKMX50lec/VVfFzQosizI/AAAAAAAADQY/Jk9ZgHHKFTk/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B18)

To do this, I found the best way was to support the suspension from below, and remove the shock & it's mount to get access to the three bolts shown in this image. These hold the plate on to a lattice-like structure coming off of the hub assembly. The bolts are E-20 Torx.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZQ9U_BzXXZo/VVfFzY35ghI/AAAAAAAADPw/Vqzs_097uwE/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B13)

Once those are off, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the lateral link's pivot to the chassis under the back of the rear door. It helps to unhook the emergency brake cable from the caliper and move the whole brake line out of the way. With these 4 E-18 bolts off, the whole arm is free to be removed from the car.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N9RynYe7Ohs/VVfFzR1nbFI/AAAAAAAADP4/-UJjYlqEmWQ/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B14)

Here the lateral link bushing is, with the mounting bracket on it, next to the replacement bushing.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5W9yJqdwS8c/VVfFzUNuc0I/AAAAAAAADQA/CK9csr3bTz8/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B15)

and without the bracket
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ietQSd6SYM8/VVfFzeSOHjI/AAAAAAAADQI/VnnPgScEBrg/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B16)

The replacement bushing had a lot more rubber and less negative space, which (assuming the durometer is close, which it felt to be) would mean that the new ones will be stiffer. Note that the negative space is on the front and back with the arm in the car, so that the rear suspension can move more freely forward & backward, as when you hit a pot-hole, but cannot move as easily up & down.

Anyhow, make note of how far through the arm the existing bushing is pressed. In my case, there was 5/16" from the side of the arm with the extrusion, and 11/16" from the flat side of the arm. This does not seem like an absolutely critical dimension as any slight misalignment will be taken up by the bushing's deflection when the lateral link is bolted back in place, but its always good to get it as close as possible.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gL-8JRQRlHc/VVfFzaXQlbI/AAAAAAAADPo/nKSrBuMxtO4/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B12)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BgfVAyzYbqw/VVfFzdZ5_8I/AAAAAAAADPg/KHl7VSvht6c/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B11)

First... getting the old bushing out of there. This actually was a lot easier than past bushings in other cars that I've removed. Just support the arm itself on the flat side (I used the large aluminum cylinder in the pic, but you could really use anything... a cinderblock, an arrangement of sockets the same height, a rock...) and smack the bushing alternating from one side of it's outer cylinder to the other. It really just fell right out. I used a couple of squirts of PB blaster to help it break loose, but I doubt I really needed to.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9H1G8M8A3Xg/VVfFzfMDKcI/AAAAAAAADPI/bzY-2K5fgOk/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B8)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman May 30, 2015, 08:43:59 PM
Once the old bushing is free, now's the time to press in the other. Being an apartment-parking-lot mechanic (unfortunately there arent too many shade-trees; it was hot out there), I don't have a hydraulic press available, so its time to cobble something together with what I do have... a bunch of sockets and a bench vice.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0tpsR1sp5Sw/VVfFzTv1q6I/AAAAAAAADPY/PZO-2He89Hw/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B10)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0VFA-JbvgcY/VVfFzVMmM_I/AAAAAAAADPQ/FsaCbEf3TsA/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B9)

This is by far NOT the best way to do this, it was a very intricate balancing act to get everything assembled & tighten the vice to the point I didn't need 3 hands with 8 fingers each to hold all the bits in place. However, once it was assembled, all it took was steadily compressing the vice, pressing the new bushing into the arm. Before you do this, MAKE SURE that the bushing is oriented the same way with respect to front & back, and that you mark how far you need to press on the bushing.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BKnPYBAKwNY/VVfFze-WgGI/AAAAAAAADOw/eqMHMSVMln8/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B5)

Bingo! Reinstallation is the reverse of removal... although that sentence is the bane of every mechanic's existence, it really is true, and you need to reinstall this link before taking out the next one. Otherwise there would really not be enough structure to support the hub, and the soft brake line would bear the weight, potentially damaging it. On to the upper transverse link.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-34YQnj33lDM/VVfFzZy7S6I/AAAAAAAADQQ/HhJjL1QaL9g/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B17)

This is the piece that starts just right of the center bottom of the picture and runs across half of the car from left to right. It's painted gloss black, unlike the bare aluminum arms that are running in the same direction (lower transverse link/spring mount/lower control arm & toe control arm). To remove this, you'll need an 18mm wrench and E-18 Torx socket, and probably a 20 or 21mm wrench (I didn't have one, so I used an adjustable wrench) along with a few extensions. Its pretty tight where this arm mounts to the rear subframe - the 18mm wrench & torx socket with extensions worked well here to loosen it.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nwEMt13lBmM/VVfFzeCjN3I/AAAAAAAADOY/WbUvKULnWY8/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B2)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6UPYseEfKGo/VVfFzZLrlDI/AAAAAAAADOQ/O8UmvJvABrg/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B1)

These images were taken on the passenger's side of the car, with the socket & wrench towards the rear, vs. the driver's side of the other images.

Un-bolting the hub-side of this arm is much easier, you just need to remove the parking brake line from the caliper to get clearance for the nut.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vzxCoFYPGjk/VVfFzRtFzVI/AAAAAAAADOg/ZfZj7XsK9HY/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B3)

Unbolt those & remove the wire clips, drop in the new one, and you're good to go! After all this work, the car will definitely need an alignment, and upon reassembly I like to use an anti-seize grease to make future disassembly much easier.

With all the work, it had been a while since I've driven the Saab, and I'd also replaced the front LCAs for the ball joints. Anyway, initial impressions were that the dampers handle larger perturbations like speed bumps, pot holes, and more severe washboard well. Handling is stiffer and body roll feels more controlled. On the downside, so far the ride has felt a bit busier over smaller imperfections on the highway. This isn't unexpected, but is more noticeable than i had hoped. This all is also in comparison to 160k mile old 2.0T suspension, and re-uses those original springs. After the round trip to NJ, the dampers feel like they've loosened up a little bit over the small stuff, but the car is still noticably stiffer, as was my lower back at the end of the 9 hour drive.  I'm not sure if I'm acclimating to it, or whether they're really loosening up, but we'll see whether they earn their keep in the track day in two weeks.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ June 03, 2015, 12:08:26 PM
I am so glad i at least have my single garage and i am not stuck doing work in an apt parking lot.  I have done it before in the past and it sucks.  Plus i tend to have issues that crop up and take longer then anticipated to repair. 

Keep up the great work.  Nice stitch job on your mom's car there.  It gives it a mean look that says move out of my way.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman June 06, 2015, 05:03:03 PM
Well, the paved parking lot is better then my parent's gravel driveway anyway.  Sooooo looking forward to the 2-car garage on the house that Helen & I are trying to buy.

Anyhow, just replaced the brake pads with some EBC yellows for the HPDE next weekend. The Akebono ceramics have plenty of life on them, and will go back on the car afterwards, but I wanted a bit more grab and heat resistance when I know I'll be abusing the stock brakes.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman June 17, 2015, 04:25:25 AM
The HPDE this past weekend was a blast! It was my first time doing one, and I'm definitely hooked. Mid-Ohio was so much fun with all the blind corners & elevation changes - too bad I couldn't have brought the 7, but I've come to the realization that I really need to get a coupe to turn into a track-car instead of compromising the 'vert's functionality. The Saab performed flawlessly though, and was great to start out in. Lots of torque from 2000 RPM up to 6000, nice, safe FWD characteristics, but still pretty nimble and light-ish (~3200 lbs).

I moved up from the novice group (D) to group C at the beginning of Sunday, where I was much more well-matched in the corners, but definitely out-gunned in the straights. The group running the event (Ohio Valley Region Porsche Club) specified that if someone was faster than you in the corners, you had to let them pass, even if you pulled away in the straights.

Anyhow, on to the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8gJqGioSIE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8gJqGioSIE)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: murz June 19, 2015, 08:26:15 AM
That looks like so much fun!!  So does that mean it's time to find another rx7? Haha
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman June 19, 2015, 04:49:11 PM
I've been pondering that one myself... maybe even with fidelity's shell & the drivetrain out of Savannah.  On the other hand, maybe I want to see what else is out there - I've been looking at Fieros, Mk3 supras, C4 corvettes, Corvairs, MR2s, and the like for something cheap & track-capable.  Even better would be something that I could potentially run in 24 hours of Lemons.  Also, some of the RX-8's are getting pretty cheap too, although those tend to be the 2004 models that have more issues.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman July 23, 2015, 09:49:15 AM
Helen & I just bought a Mazda5 to use as a much more practical car for moving, with the dogs, when camping, and for any work at this house that we're trying to buy.  Its a 2006, manual transmission, well taken-care-of, 112k miles, and only minor rust issues that I'll be addressing soon.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RtXqBvSITMA/VbEZdxFiVUI/AAAAAAAADgY/GuV8LXGGtxw/w473-h631-no/15%2B-%2B1)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KBk3QS6HPjE/VbEZd4oLJII/AAAAAAAADgg/6UUQhsg5dQU/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B2)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: murz July 26, 2015, 07:12:08 AM
Looks very roomy for all that space it has. Doesn't look like 112k miles either, nice find!
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman July 27, 2015, 07:57:44 AM
Well, the Mazda5 has just earned it's name... Bessie. That car is stubborn as a mule.

We bought her knowing that the blower motor wasn't working. I've done both the RX-7 & the Saab, and in both cases getting to the blower motor & resistor packs was pretty straightforward. With Bessie, I was disassembling the interior for about 2 1/2 hours before even finding the blower motor, resistor pack, and associated wiring. It's buried so deep in the dash, I can't see how to get to it without  removing the rest of the dash. The workshop manual (which i studied in a lot more depth after locating the motor) says it's possible... we'll see.

After a number of hours messing around with it, and vacuuming accumulated leaves, a mouse nest, and other debris from the HVAC system & cowl, I'm putting away tools & cleaning up when I go to open the passenger's side sliding door. It opens about 6", slams into something, and pops off it's track. Turns out that there is a cable that runs from the gas door to the sliding door, so that if the gas door is not closed all the way, a piece of metal comes out to block the sliding door from opening into the filler nozzle. Definitely a good idea, if it works... Of course, the gas door doesn't stay closed at all due to a stuck cable, and that piece of metal de-rails the sliding door instead of just stopping it, which means another hour and a half of figuring out what happened, pulling apart the door, part of the side of the van, and some more interior to fix it, and the door doesn't feel like it moves smoothly anymore. Well... crap.

Me and Bessie... we need to come to an understanding pretty soon...
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman August 02, 2015, 09:27:13 PM
Bessie & I got along a bit better this weekend... First up was the blower motor

The motor itself was definitely the problem. It looks like it had possibly gotten stuck at one point and the shaft was spinning inside the squirrel cage, heating up until it partially melted through. After melting, the cage was no longer aligned and was hitting the side of the housing, preventing the whole thing from spinning.

Getting the motor out was difficult, but getting the new one in was the hardest part. No pictures, since I could either fit my arm up under the dash or have a line-of-sight to see what was going on, but not both at once. I was able to get it in place using the alignment pin in the motor and housing, and hold it there by shoving a blanket & cardboard in on the squirrel-cage side to brace against the cowl opening (from the passenger's side). The motor needed to be firmly held in place in the correct position, otherwise the locking ring that secures the motor in place from the drivers side won't engage. Actually getting that ring up there and in position was another ordeal of maneuvering it one-handed around everything in the way, and finally getting it lined up by feel. All-in-all, the whole thing took about 5 hours, with 2 of those spent finding where the motor was (before looking at the FSM), 30 min getting the motor out, and 2 1/2 hrs getting the new one in.

Since the dash was apart, I decided to try to add an Aux Input & USB charger to the car, so that we can charge our phones & listen to music/audiobooks etc on longer drives. Following some instructions & looking up the radio's wiring diagram, its working well! Audio quality sounds very clear regardless of whether the phone is charging or not. I also added a pocket where the blank panel/cassette player would otherwise live to hold the phone or MP3 player.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M5FYQDo80Oc/Vb6soKSDaWI/AAAAAAAADjc/JAmCcOg9Ebs/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B1)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JdZeYfRC248/Vb6soL2SVcI/AAAAAAAADjk/lavTWYH57tc/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B2)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nTZ21cSF-ok/Vb6soEUuAcI/AAAAAAAADjs/UyAMrZgRSu4/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B3)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YDBYc253rEA/Vb6soH0kJNI/AAAAAAAADj0/-o96pDHmNY4/w446-h595-no/15%2B-%2B4)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xXIZk9lNKz0/Vb6soKnfXfI/AAAAAAAADj8/CIL2AIg_Vho/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B5)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XSGSxBcfP74/Vb6soPyY7DI/AAAAAAAADkE/8tAX85FQh6A/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B6)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vxWY_-sMWsk/Vb6soP0sPZI/AAAAAAAADkM/TRV3K1iq38U/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B7)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_Y5IexzCMIg/Vb6soKc6OZI/AAAAAAAADkU/08iK3F_Aqm8/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B8)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman August 30, 2015, 09:19:59 PM
Helen & I did one of SCCA's track nights at Gingerman last wednesday, and it was a lot of fun. We went in the Saab, and about 1/2 way through my last session the brakes went to the floor. I coasted the rest of the way in, & Helen did her last session while taking it easy on the brakes. We drove home, and I used the car to get to work on Friday, but the brakes felt very strange, spongy, and the driver's side was dragging progressively more.  Well... I took them apart this weekend, and there were some serious problems...

The pads themselves were disintegrating...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i7CleJYGSDY/VePNqM8Pt7I/AAAAAAAADnc/OFxew6_YC4g/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B5)

The backing plates had bent...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gRGyMNRoDB0/VePNqJx6NMI/AAAAAAAADnM/_r5QG60LeuY/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B3)

And the caliper piston itself had melted and come apart at the surface that presses on the brake pad...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KpbQBstkL4g/VePNqKNV6yI/AAAAAAAADnU/rdXKRidgxSw/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B4)

This happened on both sides, but the driver's side was a little worse. Anyhow, new calipers have been ordered (only available in the UK... hmm, running into Saab parts shortages?), i'm going to get the rotors turned, and hopefully by next weekend I'll have it back together. In the mean time, I'm DDing the 7 again, with the coolant seal seeping away and the window motor dead again.

In other news, my sister-in-law also just bought a 2006 Saab 9-3, wagon, and we've been working on it to take care of any issues it had. This weekend was dropping the fuel tank to replace the level sender & pump, replacing all the fluids, filters, plugs etc, taking care of some rust, and generally giving the car a once-over.  Good thing we did too, since both front springs had rusted off the lower coil and one was precariously perched on the anti-roll bar. New parts now on the way to take care of that soon too.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ August 30, 2015, 09:27:05 PM
dam that was a good number you did on the brakes.  sounds like should upgrade calipers and get better pads installed.  maybe cross drilled or slotted to help reduce some heat on them.  anyways, glad no one was seriously hurt with brakes going out like they did.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman August 31, 2015, 07:43:07 AM
The calipers themselves held up fine for the first track day, I think it was trying to get 2 events out of the pads that caused most of the problem. They started out thinner and already a little worn, and maybe already had some fractures in the material which accelerated the crumbling. Plus, if the pad material is thinner, more heat will get through the pad to the piston & caliper, weakening the backing plate, deteriorating the rubber dust seal around the piston, and causing more problems.

We definitely got lucky that they didn't cause any big problems or that we didn't lose the brakes altogether at any point.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman September 10, 2015, 12:34:28 PM
Last weekend I got the new calipers swapped onto my Saab, had the front rotors resurfaced & reinstalled the DD brake pads - the brakes feel much better now!  On my sister-in-law's Saab, we replaced the front springs & strut mounts since both springs had rusted a coil off, as well as replaced a front brake rotor (one was 302mm dia, one was 285mm dia... someone messed that up previously!) & finished up with some other maintenance.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman September 22, 2015, 04:55:19 PM
Ah, rust... the brown cancer, the slow death, the bane of 2000's Mazdas' existence. And of course the microvan has it. I haven't done much with the wheel wells yet (which are getting pretty bad), but last weekend I started to take on what I could find underneath. Most of it was just surface rust, but when I pulled the passenger's side rocker panel off...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Thqt5Li4TbY/Vf8-PEr96hI/AAAAAAAADrY/Vu4-_04Q39c/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B1)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CehAFF-zgsc/Vf8-PEKC3-I/AAAAAAAADrg/dNpfnl2YtJ4/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B2)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AUmhFwknM5s/Vf8-PARpo8I/AAAAAAAADro/A13yZlGAi0E/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B3)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O9oojv6mch4/Vf8-PHolsyI/AAAAAAAADrw/wmXUvuYjulU/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B4)
Just look at all the debris removing the rockers!

Anyhow, after a lot of wire-brushing & cutting away the worst sections, everything got coated with primer & rubbery underbody spray, the rocker panel got repaired a bit (most of the plastic clips & arms they attach to were broken off), and it all went back together. My arms are killing me after laying on my back with the wire brush and cut-off wheel all day. No pics of the finished product, since I was just tired out & forgot, but I get to do it all again on the driver's side this coming weekend. Yay...
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ITSWILL September 22, 2015, 05:49:23 PM
Gross.

I hate rust.  I'm pretty much done buying used cars from Michigan or any rust state.  It's worth the investment to go south.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ September 23, 2015, 05:50:45 AM
that rust spot looks to be in the same location as we have on the mazda 6.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman September 28, 2015, 10:35:23 AM
Yea, it's not pleasant. I still have to do the driver's side & the front subframe. This weekend I replaced the front LCAs, sway bar links and tie rod ends to cure a clunking going over bumps. Both ball joints were pretty loose in front, and i needed to cut off the sway bar links, but the car is aligned and feels tighter now.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman October 10, 2015, 09:23:01 PM
Yay, more rust!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pE46ReVW-D4/VhnYUvURdsI/AAAAAAAADwk/6SNxtqT62uw/w446-h595-no/15%2B-%2B15)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xZCvEhroqYI/VhnYUgarznI/AAAAAAAADwQ/JAGOVTzJGwA/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B14)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--MXIR-3UvSw/VhnYUqI4dkI/AAAAAAAADws/LyM9BNnPi7g/w446-h595-no/15%2B-%2B13)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3Ek024aaepw/VhnYUqdgOFI/AAAAAAAADw0/GkF1jk2BU5Q/w446-h595-no/15%2B-%2B12)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cDeLzq1nCg8/VhnYUn6nJ_I/AAAAAAAADvw/LN5o-2vEaxQ/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B10)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BJ5YWah8wUE/VhnYUms9-kI/AAAAAAAADvo/bQmQAXlPirI/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B9)

All over the wheel well seam! The only connection between the outer fender panel and the inner structure was about 2" of intact wheel arch. Unfortunately, everything around that 2" was rotted, so the whole thing had to get cut out

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mT9uj68VQbI/VhnYUi6WxgI/AAAAAAAADvg/RnfjTP4Pn0I/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B8)
Plastic patch panel for the giant hole in the wheel well

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VN8mQmkQDgQ/VhnYUuKf-QI/AAAAAAAADxk/O8eU3ecZUFM/w446-h595-no/15%2B-%2B6)
Holes drilled through the remaining metal & plastic panel, with doubled-up zip ties to hold the bulk of the panel in place. Plus, another coat of primer just to make sure all exposed metal back there is covered...

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tbKGhcJDWyE/VhnYUhb311I/AAAAAAAADxs/saRDACeANxA/w446-h595-no/15%2B-%2B5)
Ya know... I'm kinda a fan of zip-ties...

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mBissgznozU/VhnYUm-VMKI/AAAAAAAADvA/1Aat64ljALM/w446-h595-no/15%2B-%2B4)
All the zip ties tightened up, with the remains of the outer fender panel bent over to hold the outer edge in place

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_K3zuouxW1I/VhnYUqKNlOI/AAAAAAAADu4/_hAjHWWAVSw/w446-h595-no/15%2B-%2B3)
More paint to try to seal stuff up

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iRKFcVN-iPE/VhnYUiR_a2I/AAAAAAAADuw/S2b9OSC1ibo/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B2)
Bending up the outer edge & trying to seal up the rust there

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-47kJBm7irWw/VhnYUuaGb3I/AAAAAAAADuo/YZvIq1fkyI8/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B1)
And the trailing edge.

I also coated all the primer with 3 coats of bed-liner, but it was too dark at that point to get photos - that'll have to come tomorrow.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman October 12, 2015, 07:49:14 AM
Anyway, I finished up the job yesterday... and the results are interesting...

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rtfHk0T7zyw/VhqazbO6qGI/AAAAAAAADyo/2exL0s-CmpY/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B3)
This is the only place on the driver's side rocker panel that was really bad - the passenger's side was much worse despite having the better wheel arch.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QjfxRci6elc/Vhqazf-jDpI/AAAAAAAADyg/NkDHRS9EJMs/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B2)
After bending in the outer edge of the fender at the bottom to hold the plastic panel, it's significantly shorter than it used to be. I've lost the rear mount for the side skirt, so until I can build something to replace it, its zip-tie time.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z1y8KLGu-6k/VhqazXpY9UI/AAAAAAAADyY/RSPjnUA8IRw/w640-h480-no/15%2B-%2B1)
The semi-finished result. The plastic sill extension isn't reinstalled here (those pictures came out poorly due to an old phone & low light), but it sticks out a good 2" past where the fender now ends. I need to look into fender flares, maybe from the CX5 or a Subaru Outback or something to cover up the gap.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ October 13, 2015, 08:44:30 AM
nice work so far.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman December 22, 2015, 08:33:25 AM
I picked up a bunch of fender flares off of the front wheels of a late-90's ... Pontiac Montana or Chevy Uplander or something like that? It was GM's minivan in the 90s. They look like they'll work well, and I grabbed 4 of them so I can experiment a little, but I haven't had a chance to do anything with them between traveling, house stuff, and more pressing car work.

Some of that more pressing work was installing adjustable rear camber links, since the Mazda5 tends to have too much negative camber, which will eat through rear tires. When we got it aligned, the rear was at around -2.5 deg, way too much! First step - purchase adjustable rear camber link
http://www.speedyracer.com/Ford-Focus-Mazda-35-Adjustable-Rear-Camber-Kit (http://www.speedyracer.com/Ford-Focus-Mazda-35-Adjustable-Rear-Camber-Kit)

The first step was to drop the rear subframe down to get access to the inner bolts. I had tried to swap them out earlier in the winter, but these bolts can only back out about 2" before hitting an exhaust hanger welded to the body on one side, and part of the fuel filler on the other.  Put a jack up under the center of the subframe to support it as you free it from the body. The rear subframe is held on with 6 bolts, and then the top nuts for the rear shocks.  Remove the rear-most bolts (in the middle of the spring), remove the inner front bolts (located off of the towers that the upper camber links bolt to), and loosen but don't remove the outer front bolts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-07zKpnQLtstEH-RnByN58mluWNLdwQLe_Ib0wiI1k26KUCPSx0pMTzmuUkuKXMek5aeWUnigsmZMm8bPLtt0s0vIZE3JlpsxzKBLdyvtpABt-2-ixtbF3fDG5L8l5xc9Lqj00y3lGtBghcqJDg-6WiaQtZcePcwFDYGNxdezzs7bUAkdz603dJYTwgDTGQu7m1nJUHdJ7kaBJpHe-fYENnFpjvt505Vqc_xyRDWZNy3ME81uPi_eX8yMALCGZFzixTs3NRMOoQpNR9CmQgUQl7-BjAc1vlcayYGCWT9UZsLiBBX7wFToi97Joq9by6YN9kEwSGoS1s58qxbj125u-5zKY5w8XLsJ7k11--OwZLNjHUlX8l63eZl1jOTAX0X_7nvQ4deCNAyNy8SLtYoyvUKjJxl-vk8WYWot8b6Vv6ESiamZRzKTeeMx361xRB9UvjJDn6092St2SD22Xo1HJj2OGge85lxcB9Yg16cEuPgbMfQBvRR3cNvYD7DpQMypbC4l5na5pGfgkyWC58Y8ZXas2wSu9AG6dRWeD6050kkIHhewCgxft9VVA1dBYUaVyDN=w930-h697-no)

Once you unbolt the top of the struts from the body, you can then tilt the back of the subframe downwards, getting access to the heads of the bolts holding the inner end of the camber link to the subframe.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gAkOaicV0o7BLMAx9vhpwuZUQ8FUhlKSs3yD0zAweS493l8PBKRo4iAZ1dgVK8cciLiobmbOUYG_SZdLWCd7lb3I8WBqu7WEzB-AZkqJgCvfKZ_S5WQfQFvnF8DGX2PeTOpfiGrkYqjK4FynFi_-0Oeyz9CD3ezZkSpz9GZBUDhjOkqXkKEl3mITcesTrkaMA6DqY4gW9EoLCMpfFayA6pby4taEy0h194e1ZkHJtgZAP1vV5eCXHkLSwkhFwnMp1Fbt3i-oCS_3-yvvf6o9lBpIIqKq1TtZomDMFdMsm87zRipBIGNSoEXu4ipckkPZgr-93RJfSdXsPxagRkbfzkvF83kyXtVrMraWo1cNX4LXeVoW77QDiPYEVmQd3Wkd4sOSv6-V2G9POKYmbNdpXpFHYtWc0m8t8khYYrKPZidInSplf9DOG70DrWLCMVYDiIIq4qRjvOp7YJIX0v8-EzBRdhWz1fhRclJemPf9FbtqmJG7kSUUe1frCFCqsJ2JjwW-jrvJNM1ZcOuIGfw3P6tfkZvGJxB1Fv5Yw7i6OT1SBST42QexwwjGJAQ217umONhD=w1164-h655-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UNMXU8CP0o63FTQi7MCaj0VBNF_7REMRcskYPobP77ZJBoPN64AY3SG4Y-4ktEEeRCH3YpSAtL-lq5GnN3HdpG_JMNmdfgbnlkGnEJoB_fZZAbJYXpWVi5SxkEmsdQmBBtdvxMgpAL3dxb54UOwjxWEx-nA0wjDoldfNkPaPV6RKwXwRcUt4Z4W__erUMvd__x05TeUU6Jewb7RPsVG6eqUQbL1r24TTuMKbAj7pb0p4njorQRp8gLmm-vCrefVM4pD3t3FW2M8hoIUeQQXZOo7VhL1eZszv2lnf2nyOuVrjdb-Tkdx0WBBaW1EJDdzqQYSyx2QbhkljRjKoW5Smva6W9Ww1AxQDZABNvegkN1TSJssd15cbVeyRUO_MMmxkpPurYSulg1AxEuj4S1OeoznGfG903m3Fc4a-IM8u7wzTgA6ySUi5fDFrLISHwCkYRgMX184FyqVU12eNeS_42VnOCeOX_JYGS6XYAf6DsPiOzo7cjPEGkRE0-RMeHys6y6rbOdK6TtFLmNP3Ov3X_unYJqF0d408VkU4b89ahCDtHSnPbXl0JYnumv7HziX3beVL=w1164-h655-no)

Support the hub on the side that you are working on, since as soon as you remove that bolt, the hub will want to flop outward, tugging on the brake line (which you DEFINITELY want to avoid. Having brakes is good!). The wheel & tire from that side can work, as could another jack or jack stand. Before removing that inner bolt, break loose the outer one while it's still held to the car so that you can just un-thread it without applying too much force later.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TinA0K2f_pIauLj9w9tTaurpwxRmVYRv-dXRkEgQwhYLrNzWwfTDkO9Qb7ek6z-qrHXpiXOwQU0ftlK4Bev8zbXykGiF8Zk0XFc6ZsnR6d5Ji_ByUoPO1E8fIgeveAhcbSSplxDuunW7RdaN5k0iC-7ke0M-0nrafav1Sr6_pgoGN1kir6EBoBHsO6ME6Attfs2uGF1sz67ATSV34stZ-cToqnolsrfv2BqfnOSx_IfdRshyccVylfjWeLo5yPxqA71FANsUlCcd6rEvBhzNfRiO8cIUHRzcJBpzckeBMLWw-XtMmQiLfpWZpo0HKt3rtemXon5DGMktLEXO0WBE6XAikAT1n_O_sGDU-et9Fo2UjVGKvAVlSuxNpd7yIr8YCmVf1SzklBNdhWk287Uxy2bwOsCbM0Z5RbQQw6QLok4TQnPgRnqWC0qikHmW8c5vTSlWCM7lgO2wkjLPtFUqbZfFrkdvcYlvSIcoRdrvZ8W3VWzGd3yIeIahOgieGirMCJKPlzP0yfrhHLFuO1FawKa9iBTqJYJ8eojxakFJJhBnTPKZ3g-f8ehtLOlIKvMnV4-B=w1164-h655-no)

At this point, you can just remove the outer bolt, then the camber link.  Now, time for some math!  I had 2.5 deg of negative camber, and wanted around 1 degree, so needed to add 1.5 deg. A rough measurement from the approximate lower axis (lining up the bolt for the lower arm with the bottom spring perch & the toe control arm's bolt) that the hub pivots around up to the mounting point for the camber link was 190mm (green in drawing), and the existing length was 285mm. Adding 1.5 deg of camber meant that I needed to add 5mm to the length of the link. This is also end-to-end linear length, not additional length of threads in the adjustment, since the link itself (purple) is curved.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZPa715E1AtuUcWIvHpfutR4MNFdgbus6LgrjDbgP_xeZSXqCA6Hm4c2Phz1hy5uzw-6AJatJoSjoWw3u2_ITOuAVWrY2acsPXmCaV21qCxcW_ZX2cBsPAKz-ITo0QuMbqmD66edKzpgF6EZR2UFUeyBDUNfj5SZReoBc5LT2A6Xfdxpk_yFf5aC8iH8CHosxDM8quZ0djeBFbNIOnFGriwgB7kA7kqXWTbO7HqEg-JLO9A4IXVmY7q-jR53pG1wMKFKmh5bZX_-NdY3eeKZ2BBl_GXZe_9qxAsnNFHx6ybQzAP0bOxtGsa2a8trWAKXAuC-8h2bK62zexXcjo8Ozns_y8tSknIvXGNnL820bbEzu_2Cc1Oq49N2HygnN24rAzg_iWiInV2l8Tb0caAY7lNhVAsgi8K0EdwSGDwBEVk2el9KeHVu8HyXof7_s9Xj_bcmWvH7BTycudFnalah6C_ahDw2h2F7krqKSe_ZFzdBDx16vNOnX_pyPS8mhWUyM_Ln7JYMr1NDJEXCd399TWDEc-AOxZbSIoTbiapb-EirVl5v-iJB_mQckOBvnIEKRg6mK=w789-h712-no)

So, move the adjuster on the new linkages to get 290mm between the bolt holes (measure from the middle to middle, left-edge to left-edge, or right-edge to right-edge of the bolt holes). Tighten down the lock-nut and the allen-head to hold the adjustment.
(http://df1swbs43sxt1.cloudfront.net/cache/image/data/17122_01-350x350.JPG)

Remember to use loc-tite on all the suspension mounting bolts, and I used anti-seize on the subframe mounting bolts to make sure that they wouldn't stick next time. I cleaned off the spots where the subframe touches the body to keep from trapping dirt & grit in there that could later form more rust, and could possibly allow some misalignment.

Overall, this took about 3 hours total with basic hand tools in the apartment parking lot, although some of that time was finding the inner front mounting bolts - i forgot about them initially.

5mm actually took out about 1.2 degrees - some of this is because the lower axis that the hub rotates around isn't flat, so some adjustment of the camber link actually changes the toe slightly. Also, I was estimating a lot of the angles involved in the math, so things could be off a little bit. However, 1.3 deg negative camber in back isn't bad, and now that I know that 5mm = 1.2 deg of change, I can go back in and readjust.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman May 09, 2016, 09:43:03 AM
Two weekends ago I got to the source of a metallic rattling noise coming from the back of the 5 when going over bumps - a piece of the driver's side rear spring had rusted/sheared off! It was trapped between the rest of the spring and the lower control arm, free to rattle about. To remedy this, I ordered 2 new rear springs (replace them in pairs to avoid uneven ride height due to spring sag & fatigue, especially in rust-induced cases!) as well as the rubber spring mounts & the rear sway bar links. I decided to replace the sway links because I don't know when they were last done, and because I typically have to cut them off to remove them due to rust.

First, jack the rear of the car up & support it on jack stands. You want both rear wheels off the ground since you're doing both sides, and having both sides at full droop takes the load off of the sway bar and links. Then, I removed the rear sway links - in theory, you should be able to remove them like so:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l-ijwVjwKWi2N8CbRDogSg8qX-GcIOX8D8WRzZMx2rBjBc8sf4wbLFW0PdHplxmnnc5TpP7HZt6VUqjesBIDBLpkwrEXWVDqB1ZHbHPMmrx0AiQCV20db97sty2O4Sisx5QqCEPNNorW4iIeie8TXz4IBi4V1EcuI1_aa6TtyIsH7ZD2BZA2CgsOko1zNtCdZq9WdmfWCtAeRBqCa4QXSegH8D2a1SNmjoznqjcXT9YxPGaVTHz6ElDXeTwG9FkhCUKPcy-gRs1VTO-hF14P_2yBpDa4Qw5WWWljCp_xqGNObB1h3MFQqVT-nvdPZXYi75tB6xVcu1jIZplCYvg9i8gS3qJZQvWa70y_rhP4TOkwceREQmqbEdTKAW8sGXb8dpTfPb3LywOYBjMLeOJJALCixZnkiSZwXSw8XG2I39HOjsdN47ttHv3ZTn7fNt_SuTV3ewqPHDZqTThUKUBuImCeIj8IlbTvnpxbLiy41rVsP6e3iioOGovW_4CUT66daNbbwhiRPcL6fTb-QL0F5JEWZGjYy2QbZKraX40TgDUB8HQLvXhhy7SuQrTCgllMK-zYXak36eCnCi3z-7w5dAYW_SIZoZQ=w1065-h599-no)

with a box-end wrench on the nut, and an allen key inside the stud to keep it from turning with the nut. I was able to remove 1 of the 4 nuts this way (thank you MI rust...), one of them with the box wrench and some vice grips when the allen key stripped, and the other two required some destructive removal with an angle-grinder & cut-off wheel. Yay sparks!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JFDXu3vQyE8M4GPUfwVeIQJPawaDg4YUgZijdw3XdfvblH5ajAWyJDC62yp5go9t1YEAqhRVe8KC_YIt4uY0EMUsc4mlEeQT07mThc-_nNHMQvOz5D22b-zNcKT3AH2Bs7IsnwaVYeglu9K2DLBTLyZM0S6w3e7cyYcE1urUA2K52n3uaU8SEnScLUOAF9O_OD-GUPuAGVHZ5MetAxabbF7iRnJ54VmyhaWcFctC_YkYl8lsnSDx_MlNkbpUto4h2zxH9N0eQKmzI3bMQOvr1TdakLPezb2vPdUx8X_r1UBFVBXqVQQCY4mMzKzJSayIDfOp4rOzKodfgigLxkg1GljyucGSTi12yCAslwx6tukPsRIxO8KFSy65MFNFATTf_qiUS1fBQP-gl_Pl9OznJYeeLGMFmSDn-TxlyUglQvpWI4Ys-raNs_TltnlWM7Ibaun3nGVjDqCEs294CNpe7sg9lbUyctpY2voau3hzHz8QgSMSwBDf6PnbNDCX1uZNiY47VAykbvFsBkSGtAfE2KUg9UMpVxW9X6koYww3GodsZUeSt8EJrHiajvDqSDB-rqRxOCxZYczq4QWWDOxoLBS3ExP0EpQ=w1065-h599-no)

That last image is slightly out of order, since I was able to remove one nut per side of the sway bar, I could disconnect it from both arms and swing it down & out of the way of the lower control arms.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Hjs-sONVFg-aefSwc-nj4_Svqm6StgfpTuISEm-V5tmMlz2PKprOly8_SLJGCgT6WxlDF7gOLjx8e3eYpgaDd27qWOhuIis6CK7hvGZqnWQgwuID-H6sxFK41N47cH4Z0DH9EH8Rruzq1AJJXH1j3NTbco9uz8tFQJx2Rlq4xwdo306W6kZvJ6UkxK8Rrd0UvyjmQmHDOlUwvxaZs5mNpEuT8TfJ9x5G7LR6bI7t4uLGJtzhVGA_lWnJEtoa1K7ZfsJhmprsdHgZwUG-ctb2oDMY5tm9rUfCl9H9e4jg4LBPHBYSglZ8VOmNvXoSMehIgru8gTcKohGhgxb2gvxIch0Li7atGegxdxdeBf55YCfz_y6-jJJigZHw5Dz9_OPX6XfotYhvjRBQdCRT9W81NXxJqmupOs1t-xlFN44Nsm3Jfqhnw8kcXt9_mjru9EEAtDkKyIwClqqVezGwus7d_N2bM3DWpWk2yyUtpwGJH_kSNtXZGFBlULxM0jYlAICPYizgeRB38g-DiQMDZSwJhF6G1RiTgN3_Us5Hpnfm2JOtONe5003IJUMuSuQ1sBGQ803f3b-ixKBq8h-q69uY0B8BFsTnWkI=w1065-h599-no)

At this point, I raised the jack underneath one of the knuckles, making sure that the jack pad was supporting the outer end of the control arm and the knuckle. You need to support the knuckle and outer end of the control arm since the spring is still under compression when the suspension is at full droop, meaning that if you unbolt the arm from the knuckle, the spring will try to force the arm out of the knuckle, potentially injuring you in the process.

Now its time to remove the lower control arm - to - knuckle bolt, and once that's out, release the jack slowly and the lower control arm should get pushed out of the knuckle by the spring. The knuckle is held up by the shock absorbers bump stop, and the binding of the other control arms, so it can't fall far enough to dislocate any other components or stretch the brake line. At this point, the spring will just fall out from between the subframe and the lower control arm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aVkZ2ChJXFcJ9992cyoIDbykdZm3goMU88_hZogT9v8K5UCURiJpFSQ8KiV2pGIyNXlegmTCOTqolKLROCtJCbAjg7jg0HG2pz41pmyirMRHa3wWCl9VP4NG_ngkIwC-ed64-kmET06ShJoZ4mEwahownHLpR0SVUFGpDGp9xK2N20cN54ZrlLjJVorfITO5l3Vk4bQ_WM03Wu2pZqK2hDCi4iE5YdvYbX1aDU2AbGRzRHPC5ip17-6gxqvDX1nfx7uznKYqKNmXfREmZjOkZXNuet6DbZcF8YKuqiGIB_zLOJgeHnv33y7_awX6FMjygszYuhdDBWuXL9BkmkrFR6zOxkn1HOMFoYwfT2_Wiocee9tV8BdHT2yW-49UFenlkkGFxK9mL-_YFU5q_gp64mcR3UMUR3M3qG6i4jEiARYS19KmanDa0FrIYeFiJ4wthiJ_t62s-jD3oC47ob0D76WUsGKHAxlK_ukkxwVfTeHZnjuunIZx_tC32dt2SgRmBbFtEtsWzRfCZxBrdbW1vbKqEA4T5CHjQ9acKrABJpUNAtrTJlPghQppyIdot90rKY9wus8VGEtLlssyD8bMfy6GR9blokA=w1065-h599-no)

Repeat this process on the other side of the car. Once the springs are out and the lower control arms are hanging here, it's a great time to cut off those sway bar links if necessary.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tsr3jnyd04gHQaPeD20E_iSfUpIMHM31gtD1QCZcok1ij8mqjj9JnPqs03qpIlQ01tp5YUroX3RhyPJuCgPmY0Tg5TRH8bI0suwPDiU12fqOqN3rQaaPDQzjmGfYzOWNt1ltYNSHWLliomdGNb6KAm1aFZdbmFcInm3kMm5FIy-2OWf6EtjjKJU_GH1_SpRSpuTDVRvcQoFOMCQP4JeCoclSw_96dObToBxw_CvjELstKe5UlDc6v8qM-mt9D7MYipKmoKj8hvFw185GkpembQoTAB_dp2CllorIscWKGG0taHBUk46wEWVbi0nJotdeknno4h3cIhp7aM6mFfKZq_hZ3YSOQEEhunerPQ2hQ8nSqo7s-HBr_nKTxRsbCKsmoG_585OwzPJe_QomNDd8k4A25PzB9q_T1eqqSNTlkFLDc1qTb-mhlw9TwQiGjdS7Sva4q08yM7i6xiOObeouLWrPozQZgNQakepipT35ZxpZnBs8In7cBKeQVME-l6nIGtJDk92x8cGT_c4d-ET3X5L605PTvDYeCdIkiUlr0F8eAH4g5TvGf56KgGhq4KIzVA-8UZ9J3ipfo8aDkGEo_zXxqL_klp8=w1065-h599-no)

In addition to the broken piece of spring that I fished out two weekends ago, there was another broken piece on each side, meaning that I had lost a whole coil on the driver's side, and about half a coil on the passenger's side. This is why you plan on replacing suspension components in pairs - if one side has broken, the other likely isn't far behind!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WJ9gtF72kUYO4sU5-hbEbs4sZMzR14i-qIyl9mevzfrMMJZM2sEg6Goec6Bo7473wK3Rd1JG82FmAHZdEJx3CCYhM18S1OziGW87zHmjQ3pfYqKPyYONCwhjR0wTbVMnM5rRkIPf_Fc96Wjs_XidD8jDD78Ja1MJYQJibel3R22L6flceFPT346pAFjsBTGrFVl3GTm2cVE3tRIcm9Mr_dXvhJo_X7jYVKZp4G4c63LsR_ohK1bdO4nNTcOQl4q4xtAajhzD_li9Z7rbDzD3Dx-zz7XP1p_cb5h5Zg8Jtt8zWxoPO77CEYvXG5DaQr4tQ6UjYcOv1_r-pHUr9HNd4DEctN8COzB6Xhk1BDRdmNpNgk4p7uXvx0X4JSNGdjtU8X8qeAULEKNP6vXQqwkt5wgYi73-1c70ZJWtfSKz4-kBrzmG0gJpTrBFb1AXzHvvIUfplEFCgMue71EdzW1uRrxrY-ojsfKTbZHlIG4NqNNJ1x4I_uCmxbl5jGqaB7x-L66UkFRXPQbPtL0wT9inX2Hl9mQzllKRtV0lp5b_CbCJq_SCr8HAhOYJviyWUQ7BVk_OkxU8VnnI5rUUpRXNviEZbVg6mNQ=w1065-h599-no)

Since the bottom end of the spring was so rusted, I took some rubber tubing and cut a slit along the outside of a coil's worth. Then, I coated the inside with lithium grease and slid it on to one end of the spring (they didn't seem to have dedicated top & bottom ends). I coated the top mount inside & out with the grease too, as well as the outside of the tubing. This should help prevent rust & squeaking in the future.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CgFGNiDjozd7XNGlnvmb2GdGb8W6YGOKi0Xvw-XlOSQ_RDc3uT7tjPd56gj3haMUcw3dyJeFEuA6TCfGpuqNUGlxcXr8MXklsukgWe6Ht_gPOLNa9d-iLRvC18AQWpoKxmLrCS9LPaWvkiYF79_x5vRcQWjIL9AwSdEDdkHzXB5YMVX0HitN-11n9Zcl9VKAgdAzzq057cQlh9PzjtJXSOz-2xYbkwarrCau2LYwLjDSlWdpZRXZkiLuL1LsSG86BMPK9jZTJBkHccXkzaWRa0pkc9t3VeoB6ZgQBJw0TRPl5JiAl2Js3KU_ASMq4RCszJrFFgMSsxUCDrgbH-BLFGAAiZRzWes07C0Oh55-bEz1TP_0XL1uP6mHQFryIVi0gJH-xb5uU68t7NMEI5Zq3H8d-bnJmHBB4naTWj-t9me2Oybe4bXcNatNpntSgg1oKSUTbp4YI80jSHZYEch4WIcVG0nMzDJ-8mW4T9ltgPnI2rKcfBijYVhDvyDhquAcuB0v2fDj6eEjFwhw9NBw9uBYgw-_EBWoOZDQKkwqcc3pFjQiJSaN7dHYjhfVh601yWctW7pWjrI7yEw6nL06vG09Rfa3kh0=w503-h893-no)

Then, as they say in the manuals, installation is the reverse of removal. To compress the spring and line up the lower control arm and knuckle bolt holes, its helpful to use the jack on the end of the lower control arm. Make sure that you put some anti-seize grease on the various threads so that next time you need to do some suspension work, they aren't as difficult to remove.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hPaKwpjODx2hXkFVYB0JKginQ0KWKQvJQH3w7tly93i-w4UMTzpNF1hW3NM-O9bkBt-x8uJtifLQA483Sin3liBlcBF8DcS1AnJonFU7WpoigZ9k8svmaHOQEgmNuL2LRERY_IgonV4KWkHxmHPn8GAHcF7l8zSdkWYqfAm1CzchJW3YKt9eSNbbmjVeb4nezvpgknVWT_XyjD4vzPAE0U3ccx-Edgf5j_wS5ahb1IXHRupHsvfVSv8ueRDAajM-t3PQnR4pryo0bELe0v28O8UjaKcIAHGOGQobiVVgsz6c7wbKKWacpbaA3OnAWxgpMiS-gir3SMi0_zp8A5B_LWhwn3liPMb2LiVyfYT6pbq-wl_fyQmRjPNk0JjE16bWX2lUn8SN09-4qFGMnag2F_f9VnAPSaKNSu7os3OEsx82i9nxR9b7hoY3uGdrDqFYbgjwPsW4EB_7_bEgRZlzU-A_kWuzWnbTl4LxQvKjCh4DI1W5j8ozLCR5B2emnsRCKwGr4GGTsKqSGyXx_kzup-woO7CwOLiQLtMnjWQOOdo2u9OpDl0B_4bdC-s2yH7QbiyFgEIhQaFG7XCeCUfaGW7l-6fOlf8=w1191-h670-no)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman January 01, 2017, 09:51:39 PM
Well, more rust repair and suspension work has happened on the mazda5, but that's not the point of this post. This post is... Clutch on the Saab. 190k miles will do that. I wrote up a how-to on the Saab forum that I frequent - the job was not only replacing the clutch, but getting a new solid flywheel to replace the worn-out dual-mass flywheel that can't stand up to a mild tune. Basically, the front subframe and transmission needed to be removed, and everything in the way had to come out too... Ah FWD, what a love-hate relationship we have... Overall the job went well, but was a solid 14 hours across 2 days, and I got sick in between disassembly and re-assembly which didn't help matters. She's back together now and feeling remarkably normal, which is a very good thing.

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641658 (http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641658)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman January 09, 2017, 10:57:27 AM
Of course when doing the clutch, I managed to damage a wheel bearing and missed spotting a very loose suspension bushing, so the Saab took up residence in the garage again this weekend. Now it has all new front wheel bearings, control arms, and tie rods as well. I should have just done all of this when it was apart before, access was better without the subframe in the car.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ January 13, 2017, 06:01:22 AM
I know the feeling on love hate with the FWD vehicles.  personal love is RWD.  glad you got it together right now.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman January 16, 2017, 07:03:44 AM
Yea, I'd like my next DD to be RWD - I miss the playfulness of it on wet or snowy days. Plus, most RWD cars now are performance-oriented, so you usually get a limited slip diff with RWD cars. Either way, thats a few years out at least.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman April 17, 2017, 09:49:10 AM
Most of the exhaust hangers broke off the increasingly rusty Mazda5, but somehow the exhaust itself was still intact and not leaking. I didn't want to deal with trying to disassemble the whole thing to get out the section from the header most of the way back, and of course dealing with the inevitable broken bolts, problems sealing afterwards, and lots of other little problems that come along with rust.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/saDhXuzj6lv1tMLHGaF9iLluw_5qjqvO2j57PxQJC0LWYfFSlzwxqC1orEhbWie9EDaJaavFL-d1GKaJLblaL9ZKnxs5Go8MGmJqyKUnfd8JBZ3S-GR0Xo1zryM32_DP3IKl03WOFZ1B5_QU4k9tjigt5FuHHo1nAkErgbhfcLJzj1EvYxZslLo_dGxfToQc-1jhG7gDJJ7Dk0P6fIiZzYL8ZQZE45JszO7TXzlJSRNHuA40xVhYyj_wPh5qGLqdXv-vxwZnPtl1m6apF4gMxsdLFUDAxlMu3QQ4EGBYz24PBNQPHmOup3uHFBp2CoIxQDCFpewi8WzZIjJTie2qQpg_nAQ_wcSWGujWwT-cuqvkuWYOE6Et8wxtHzWSPs-u2tDkgD7C0qd0QyjKXFW1eU8klw__dd881EKbf52ar1clfZ8F-Od3qsU5h6AB9hvpxgPD2PB8yc2ftPcJtHA6Y5OGKlYjIReFyCvp52muJWZzrurGl8fY6s8QvjC19KZx_zndyyrjVfwV6koN202aTmdWZk63LPF4u7wpWQOB8J5P33qhe9z9FEuCK7Knzvc5CsDf5ReJFRoXJURwsBhxxRwGSl-qWUAN0oqK91OU4q2yERoGJ0Pd=w1370-h771-no)

So, time for some in-situ repair. Basically, its just taking one of the exhaust clamps used for holding together slip-on connections, and building something off of the exposed ends of the U-bolt to hang from the rubber hangers. So, some square-section steel tube, threaded rod, assorted nuts and washers, and some aluminum tube to slide over the threaded rod to protect the rubber exhaust hangers, and the result was:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/92thL4j89iu22XV3CQqMo5DTB77Lpn3MlDAjuRoNC6aOKccFaqYNtCC3Gu73PN5e1VWvxhExm-MHA248Z6Yz0MfjCd8L2rd81WGikGuzhAw27DNduTQa8iR9u_xa55E6ZqajzErKWvV9gko46WmGWQTUmLzhmA1znqYMXRHL1riTpAElnatrjsXivCrdP3XmD3_7ttPUstk05dHGeRSnLRr830iD5tqV9QIXYNwYInRLUEiurDWdujHEHL9IWnc09U1CzQL6lnMyw2EbWfzkVKMhy76QyR4QKd987xfU3BplZW3NXErA_rdjv2oLDJ_o8erSmb7zEzqqZIifWuyxfd70EXssOVdFj_SnMl-L_798EVnY-8qtyUCYOWqkSmBOMSdkucggR_-be2c1KFkQ-oPENmLlw4fIayC4KYOk4eY5WG78s3SQBr1vqYj4X3NhGoxcgmLxFMrjBtEa-8Q2OIDcL1SZmQB-cwGnKnkBC02V3BiuqcpeaSJb7MRYQidn1GOaWKp6ymr-G0VPhgzs5El8x3UgtV5yIC2qn8cBEWuvvqrb-VTNATZX7IxGpfo9KfWbjLraASPdn0MYfZhfN0ji22k0j6RsOaUOrgQ1rPZo5J48=w1370-h771-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ogkFMEWU4fDq6hMN3RlZN_LFtUQ75W2X2Sgu2ohraygazZDFwJdFt9eJV1X8CanPopK4oTsxSvFcI7vBM3TlhDlBMX-iumHjpa5_gGD5hOXIPn0wIpVt_zd7DsjWwKxnHT9OcLFn5WYFXn0l9rY_ZCO6z6YC2EvYE3eRTqj8SVWzs9XL_rXPabcbHYWMcUJ79YKKwneljIDYTLFYg-xtnQHHky-WDWw2gBDs0pTj7HlpK1BGSvH9KNU_Xw2dRqxFBlnTD098uaOi1QpouOpS-pqHVBNlgJ8w0LlTjFZETSEnJQHP4tBANhOo9ByxetmJU-m4YL0jcN04yDDRsid5ps72NzHg5bv6BBDqvVLy8hWFagiEnl9hbXtbSsTact0iieXSiNxgjRmWJNmg5PDXfxFb-Z_I518b5V_wSs-qepiYz4rxaG48MN57ElrhxKxwyK8EbPcHt4pp2qWj7-LjsrHJgqxsivgNzAnKDpVnSeJd1iNRyJA3GwyxJdClmuB3I97quV2c7k0YcIrOxNa78DM-vDt_m3O--oJd6Rb51cbEUW2PvsLBSGUaB03AIdn0lrcoACzUANwaEbfNUr8IJq1MX-d044tK18ynn2Ti0sRenEsJLRD9=w1370-h771-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vScGf9NGLVvjxzebC4vyQ8HsLg4wLNBc0lzhMYQIE2gO5aepCiRQs1bBJF6SX-yLYFU1kEq0RSlSha4hK2iHANvjW5s8vwLa1ciM-AjML2PxlCIDYzbsZd3MZPkVAY-CCj1_c2AKwQbtnLujf39k6KyvIpMdbjsDaRp-VxjMHpNrZeZaBLpwflZpWYvwR9fgG7iJKVg71Q44nM3ElYcdRdGDRlSJH1zKdwo6_Z005L-p_IqHcnLB4rSmAj2mJ4vNvATnr7kNUjY63kyecaQIQv-a26eAnM7XrOsYewazd5HAfnaPQvkqUgFcVvXfFyrlPgn-bsRKtJGs6ybu0e7dV9ZPpU8eaU-zlVYISECJkJ3MvpvVwjnYAKyD0tU42_53509mUHvn_Rspn4lDyG7lDsWyYOv61hK18jyxV-ZcBLSpcrsPkGB85FPqaXmncK3Y2xmzoEVLXU7qZNSbxoga4u43HjCF-uG0DF3FwjvYn0PBIpyGT7dnnR32n36vg-bGFbURdg0eHnAUe2Nqz1qIzNTiA8LrlU_Fiq1PjJuAnwKC1b0y20_cwzqfNs_z8lRJRVXRB73sUHx7Hd3SfFu1_JLZrCItggukHR5hE1KYAJiOG5Xo=w1370-h771-no)

Basically, everything is assembled to make sure the nuts are in compression against something so they don't loosen, and the ones on the end have threadlocker.
Ugh, rust...
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman June 14, 2017, 01:47:04 PM
So  I replaced brake pads twice this weekend because I ate through two  sets... DE at Mid-Ohio, and I wanted to see how the pads that I ran on  the street (Akebono ceramics) held up. Needless to say... not well. I  destroyed a set of brand new pads over the first day, and some that were  a little bit used in 2 20-min sessions. To finish the last 2 sessions, I  had to run out to a parts store and pick up a set off the shelf... they  weren't great, and didn't grab very well, but at least they were  something. On the plus side, I think they shifted the brake bias to the  rear, which along with the greasy track surface at the hottest part of  the day contributed to the general loose-ness of the car and a pretty  big slide at the end of the video below.

https://youtu.be/8B1D5YF-it4 (https://youtu.be/8B1D5YF-it4)

The engine overheated a bit at the end, so I coasted in at the end of that lap. No permanent damage, except the dead brake pads and it looks like the gas gauge no longer reads the top 1/4 of the range... Oh well, the sender is original at 200,000 miles, and I've replaced two of them at less then half that in other cars so I figure it's been over-due.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BjZeWiCgpMOFg0VBj6jvaEAAL9dUDOK8T-Z2rne9QR8JVnKJFv3tFAT0_GyYiAK_121YRnbXNma82JhWSctG5yQH-4_FKcmStnvtCPWDFsCEKAuu41JkZGuIBP2gqRdUJhWXHSQTt2nqr5h-MWCcYqSefIs59A7i7w0crLEU3J5LNJuyVQPxQjHSHN6zx4wsbMgTcY1bQdYxzR2WIzJtRlcPlQU-OHNRvJskdTivKGSTnSDpDx66y6uS67pVFw4llCY1FIxcXd74Blvhph0_1aNc_xsoh8Ho4SkA0zM60-iP6fnrvtWpmICwJFiRdCluWSZjXS_W-JQeFEKaAGTDuj7iPdi_WgSguuVs588f4zMklNeEgFuD-MC2Ul-R6POYFD08G1ZGZVN_6hfyy9OPBMFpLZ_niJGyN2Y_pa15cTrdROSVr12IOuaFLm5i5QV2TLB-izTVPVdB47sfzUgIdeZfB37vDsaJn8ei875TAIb14ugX4TtcTHTqeV-XKX6XBj5So_pl1ZCrgwwkNL0gY-nPy9Ka5SxQpIHkAjJLWLnhy3Jcu_ZtygJ4lCzW_Eu0vmokyExnZiq3JrvmvSFgtd-fUbtHPmtYIJVR1MARc1fpRCUPI66va1kxyNSDNo2LO2o7Bl-yk2AicABmIYZCUCxWjiEj7osF2s0UknIM1g=w1197-h673-no)
So, which one is out of place?

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8tn_G0pHIrJTbi6mo8otyaSScDEVyHya46HRUkex8--k2vAXZfkMMLSoJA-rEyE2sNWaURyi7izYY1yGPI37MEfkpP0veIi6dkbd9YT_Xy6L55DOMozBA6WeU3CKU2p7iu8P7W-Ok9_LkNrJkQlWgT0yBXn3Mn_JLtg0nAB9dlwgqfEW5_gYvqE4enoytDL1h3SiN5OIFjL4QhTduX2TOufrvpU2XRA2f5h04-M9q_yLLIplcsWlHTfsXMceULAPs4MJmooO7TjmuoeEhJLhTYVelKWTTP4ii4VU6bDcUh83ybHO7iYuvSC36cPFIdTWqtvWs2wkIevNDI8k5qQ7jk2pbCKT0TD3_T3W8SN_p1dag1I4zZrV9oMXP0hkuWBqGfddK0s4GwKl0e-lVJcmrlVvzJd7pRRYUzw-jq--Rh8S6cLbIHT0jugnBycwVlJrfeyigSkGL3nrpsk83KaqOHda3NqrFGv-yzCJMojsv0kf6orOPuhBh-rQ_UpqFLL4iut2qSU-saDIjw0vS-iOPwcefzXK99s5f6cfBUxPiqwljO7idM30yoIkljHccT-PIpOq6DgfKpBlH_ojIflzKp0GArqbZVPwIaOXUVosNbBhSZ4MKJN_wcP_v63stGjlgOxaaXnoP2P72iyklgtH106TAIo6Q1pBl-GHX1j7OQ=w379-h673-no)
Melted tires...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M4oYoJvpG_Kl_OzWdACU-nVeop6azZybueH4sVoxWaYRJ1Hhj28IeZtn3tDrHdMwn6Bjg9KVxN-K5SSpzzC0430ayFZf1EnFerA0zscZZ2r9IS-hffur38HXx3fM0lzMct3-GhvrECHGJqpJ_ayXyni5N-sM1r2_NVeBCn3eQo3tlulRrAwPIGyC44xZ8Dp7fCAs8JI2u-kQjQoGfGgg0ef88OuR5XrOG0i7_ssuVIbbIzPXHtSGx-shA4ZVpKKMn0INuKt4imRdfii-0bnItTDux51ehnhmO3mf5qY6G6dForxAmcz7s2QnFjkKAZG-VbXSm9FsBx5iDkRexoT1hKAvNV2kOhcqu41Ssa3tJ3kWAI1U5OsAV49Xh9zly32w8ekUUKPzfF60nYQjr--4Eim_61RCJA9_a0FOqlGn9hQFhy8IFnflRhk72P0OZEAn0qnmnseS2LR-xPMsBrfK9jq1z4BwfJ8kZilhTWr_YGhac6twuteaKR1c9CH-7Ur4S4GDMdHUqxC0kuItMvQSLCodusbkBDs3S_g6V3hfSPsya6MV1GLdLltKAtAUCKEjMgBpCxmffEB14CQxFPUcb2nWYiaud_esR-KSDLIfqUTUHrBVo-OOui2x7BS1uA2DPPx7Gc0_rUD7lks1h7FU5Gtng1JIU-FnjExXc0s9bw=w379-h673-no)
And destroyed brakes...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rM158JZ5TxxIQ00cmgSoW78yDZLoODovFgzww6735T1cdkPiuCbrT9QUNCdS1TLe1JqEnWesK5Z8yeRKXGZMHwYtVDaQmhTgBEHfL7bbnpDMsAW7i0Pm3Tj_K7Wc2hJLnEPVOx65iF3OAzDsS3cphy-Nz0NAnrG-miXqVWyMz8x2TTJ3nDEjSRgf0GxQvm4h-VpQitpk_gcJUuHuMu0OC0pZq61BrCBdtPApJCZLH90iuJIuU2gFti5KMpkmAfX5_SlYul5UKMiaceAUsUSkxtOmqdV_j5yHwade_4FWiX-vfOHZZprmaABoFKUT1f6TMwQS7RxnJ9g4rHaLQNjyI9Bxxn6BRczINZFyrNX9GOCK1WTN-slE2Tr8qQpPIv7Hhny5COXG_1MMLYsQFckuVE8XUbP_D3wTiW_Ur2w7aK2kV7OnuA5R47o3Kw8KsRMpzdNvuXjCl4Ei4YD445OHNG5AMJb25WHN4hrWStop0Ka-hXlTw3pfGUKGU8mZDvu_eG0W3SzHfjZqQgUhZbHjb5_4ru28FmDf-FNYrud38qu5dqOBQG5eM-FTnBPknvTdvpiEbVW8ieC1XWWY1dlJSdxWl1ChoBLRSccrWRm9SF4V6qtYXEy-17FIT_lFIHvKncRuiTh8zV3qLFUjssdOptXpI3LCQjXE6PUa1aBFFw=w1439-h267-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4b1UV9MKd939bkKDF49py2NX0ADB2mlj9tieN-bItwaCgKpjCFYDfSybyvx79pKpV-4Cp6n2IplgzLf2tIk3tgZhHQBpdQpAdqrbPUe6QeObGXNcX5FOYv_tcVAxnDMqzwS-OjUJMgJlBQMBBoZ4iUb8qFgNC3WBjMyUGgwrmLhtOu9g_dPnipv7uAQ3msfEx-koUTHRmlA7QFQaLsrAfmQRxlSxrQO4pbrzkU-jpUmN-g-es6YikS5XoQBUwmMRkR6e6JS9_yfD9ajqyCIRWjimNZtwwpMUauomBr3H-kFgYxTw1XfRaXdUgJYrj3FXS1wQOas9RlHdmBMoPf-M_8z3yHzz189cu6qg7GLQRquCmy_FrYn5PNWd-nGecITRly8OoYXWxQHm2i4rGQiOPIWuW9f-wFDF9I89riwt4st0j6yGYXmvvJeXAUkC4Fi_x4NfEVXI5hnzSRSc828mGzLkr9nhXgunZOVWRc_EhbQU7EgzV7LG_IZFxW0zymnbrkFlN0wW49c80TL2FreSouKW-HUUBumjw4OS6gte-Ke8Xht7H1mTjIPXSXUrH4Zzsa3Zz26qS-J2bQ46-Gmo-f-WgYcALNUBSRXUFp-_r8MRvfKuqSLXekEupHikCBlijIuUYP9KCrX4s9yIBehDOvddRqbFnNgbjiu5FxEcKg=w831-h468-no)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman June 27, 2017, 09:18:09 AM
Looks like the last two sessions of the day, with the replacement parts-store brand brake pads, ultimately did in my driver's side caliper piston. I went in yesterday to replace the rotors and pads, and found that the caliper piston had just kind-of crumbled (at least the outward face). It still is holding fluid pressure, but the boot is torn and the front face is, well...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xsgSCY8AllJ3syUx2wQlgiKkZpLcC6wgz7AokiRUmNou2oRXVFf_DxehKkMHIgbkttE2JdsFQmlq4PKIQvDZWIs_7T_0ehe092Rm-jH_a8o3Ef0s61pg2ZTqlJ5PTCuyalqUSDrUhxE5F77pMurf_3zUHjmGz5SOxS2WsAgEZ8NTtZbiL0aPFzll1Wre3Ee54tmEYscRxyRCbDIZXk2L_heVRV7CMDu8M4nU_KF7j2u6qRasg4t2u_fFDFmE7WDtRVPuM_9xFNDbgiblA62CY_Hci2-DNqEyfyjmE1aNQZ7fC4MkfPOjNR54ZRJU3Lm3NYeqs_wnBgRorwOzxBFTov-6Bqjjg0yvL-36QFEbl3BpbdOcvcxGAhc0Oq5xwAcDOPIkNlLoScy_xr9eWyc0sh7mEUp1Cvz8p9yWaSVqSc_x0kv8D1xl8d5ees2As4D7VWsWNTJmpo9IVT85aKKu8Nf3K5I6Phz-p2nzvwMJGOPiVcudDj086q1HSsXCOFqY5SYo61hN1RAfTRF1A06b47O2vGbbypFsb6Q97lkjLk5EEP-aqf8aPy7Gn1KnKKiGKG0fF-LqgdXS1hSnNwd6zWTorrpAhtkRr6RbWLPOmDn4J1M-JUP7qRCXvpvCSBkYq062UyGoWExiF3R5yJCrKKm7MBtmubrWDieZuG2D6A=w921-h518-no)

yea.

Replacing the brakes on Bessie (the manual Mazda5) was also a bit of a bear. The old front rotors were pretty worn and eating through brake pads, and the rear pads were marginal. Replacing the rears went fine, with the only WTF moment being that someone had previously used the wrong bushing for one of the two sliding pins on each rear caliper, which not only bound up very badly but didn't really fit in the hole in the caliper, allowing the inner bore within the caliper to corrode very badly (pinching the pin even more). It took a little while to clean these up, and fortunately the bushings are the same part as on the Saab so I already had a few spares. Oddly enough, the 5 & the Saab also use the same rear brake pads, but the rest of the caliper casting looks different.

Moving on to the fronts, I just could not get one of the rotors off of the hub. It was rusted so solidly that there wasn't even any play to try to work it off or get penetrating fluid in there. Ultimately, this happened...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/24X1kDMZGPvNRDKzECrvgnwbpezbJMsixxQMHeFBZDKoAjgs4M-IL3XM6kCAjKsJHBz5FiqTwUQ10ZK8DVnhWzS-tL3QutKEk5Ku2vfLipxlsAPZ_cyPUNrqRHTedmm4nnqT9kA6g1sOfZrbmqddt3pcNnoDXo7SO6yPcYaNmG60MQn75RHhnaxx3cRa1cxyY4m5GXggIrWOOyJvGIWdUme6AlynGgjMlNYx_BJ3EJ_f_VRnTmM3uhCENwbBh3FlorRd-YV6-6daiv9beAQD5iJR2SAdx2m8pE0wYBdifU9ulVHsp9kmkncUpO8AGLNTcw1aULp-iEdu_o_SIxinx5phP1MxKDM9gX25UPJ39X_oBOGgQhGseWGeYQnYvM0hua79mmF5j_jcw4ii0WKTCHuw0QpETF3_Du_lKKbzHH6T54I9WVcDYxv-AQU3cyauCZni-_QKPQgilQ54Owy-2u82jT174hVvS3nkcT1fyH6huABKJNttfAr17h0UWI6oPE6nvbGXBw747nUIi-1VDrYihHCVQ4UgOKsI6CSupCihcg_2HdKdnDwQ83blZqWWCcP6ti220dsc5rIL4JfyvM0WPGrcawyrpqkoNuAyDa20HmhIoNskArSrPzDZ7wmT_jDfqkzDmDee4UhMxIQe9zmycQOhE-g0EqvI5cMMhQ=w921-h518-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/32ehrLtvKyY9Z9oU0CTyQXwu-Kak5ZFrufmiL-Kno559boDuafklRD7DdWiMScfcsHdnlgIYrCbx98ZXb8ibxClk6XxVuHNRFV2uBq1xREe6o_TU3eBPuIHVuLrrD_Pb2Plq56Kzz0HeUc7XmHNTftZAvGFNFAUWy1GPJTElQWRymnxlGRsjYBKDtsFH-AUJR7JVCbLlgB0GaRRVWE0t1AoS7th0JPdJ-HS15xNaAsPXYc5fvPYLdAtdc2ZvDPxwkHE3qFFWYhV3DLslxM6_gPcGIi59fiwYWe_6Mr3Wot296a7dO0UInEHokB4nm87pHvGTAwQonPG0O1w-hsbZsTAxAtp14LNEXp2KRZPAnG4fgpLW1cq1lhEsqYIkNwKgvxyCWCYasEmXYuyuEEXGND6Q3woGUcFQZ7OKld6_thfWa14smpcRjwSTB2cTn8sJLNUX21oUL9egyScvX1FJgZBnCjSf7iKpdXnQyBK8ABCLe9sQieYbenvLbbYDfvY_ShinsT9hwkAJK_oP8BidGyhFYeShKo640vec0aQIhnUumVymDyh2eKTra-9qmi2vaCYv0rdHn4h-cM7AX5vIkQmQKRwhhTj6cMBJwPatdLT4eRh75GYhOejBTBzGNeJXUiPVy0FTOeTxrwkDXExKtu17ORPUwDaawY4GjFP7_w=w292-h518-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9KxczwUc8WdD9JMtc7IhtDjzXAzbZBUGj58zahoEzPHDEe-eRVSQ83BeODf0oiPpmAQYdJUclvLFOsskHC2yr8wpGXz-z9UBe72pCLjsSdtp8zGEzq5NPvDTRfcmeqdlE4ePIrBTMgeB5YQHOvxMZnLbOOxc7DFeTpsU6FssfTUmyPA4XYLMmitr01F8WtTOnY-i13unMXLui7q-6REaSKpnyPhNdOiLvy4PKVk8Z04MnVrqzr4fo2MzuYnFbTxYRqYSAXCRMmz9fsiHoHFNc3kdBT9ug1-B54o8JI_P71VUMt8iYdlUQkzA-tUo3-hm0TihTn9iM950uDlFnOk86SrE7gEd6Wua_6PN8lauqoD8MshCwxk3MxKmXeM8sZMzjavpXbd3rs7w5GbqX0ENURnGXiy0hIw7mkGvdLEkCHDrYrj7W6lYq3-DQcETqVm0xygyOdkOA4gROXy-PKwuwVezgzeyrx1A_gaACcDVf2rnFQURR8e6heA0S6kTseaTq2srl2sTxMHQHMrCSNBamWBrgXRNmRTWS6V65AI_OjqdexQ9Bq2GAWt2-ik5BaYslipo6eVVdMlv-yonjZETtP3PTNzBJumSjKBTBX1WfUh3DuSWpWk2WgFWt7FO8VfKkNz49AyXnRkTqxdV5G7M9UPJlDnC9cpgm2eRmWFW3g=w292-h518-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L_KMF8fI3rTF-mZXGNbLuBMr0BgfUhI8SkDKA4hyHIa9l5Os_4dT4RmSR9he5Cf72Mo3a_E1A6hKg5bwTz2VXnwPBgF1Q1gcdP-Bf746KGgngJ8ph0j8Glgfn0oMijzQQO4svEkEaiAChCExvu7VsygXklInkbslDImYOvSOgux3ghCE8khpK8dxYvcL-m0lVh1tz9YQtKl3eWgjiRKZQq5_tUbVQr6jd5f6B3GeXC5pqrxLjBKhVzWqODEmUFCKoTOKQ_Ioa_qzh06xhP-Pn__JrPvS56U776v82abrXyEOB0UFiB2ZUk4c2-CTlF5QX7XALpENLaFwQNc2q9C12rwl9FVO3aVNgmX969S--WVSxgCoU177KcpE7X2Ke_1wJwa1DpnSLKBlUDu1Zx5vf5Ww14gaIY72Ob0kS7W62sFsgy_wESKNOuqph8gH_LVVCoy-Joa3jaz6S9ZTXNlLOtvxkTZo6un6MfDPYRrKDVYnLET_0enXFyZPlVg3toIhYZUpbpKRG7r3R0OLT7EMi6q1beTtL3UPAboZhjv2R7oJ-IkzuMERmcmrKzHPWR4jV2rOcruKqOXdKOiTnyHyg9ey0q1Mkcxrt1PgDO9q_ITtz224CzeWTD6Rd9NfI8m4xhHZEYcueA81wcVs30Lajsiq3q_N8vNXY9nX_ScLA=w292-h518-no)

I was careful not to damage the hub much or lug studs at all, but had to hack the rotor itself apart to get it off. The other front rotor popped off easily, since some kind gentleman of a mechanic put antiseize on the hub before installing the rotor. Who-ever you are, thank you!
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ITSWILL July 16, 2017, 01:55:07 PM
I didn't see this before but it reminds me of the nightmare we had on Rich's RX7, except it was both front rotors galvanically corroded/ bonded to the hubs.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ July 18, 2017, 01:30:57 PM
oh yea, and getting those rotors changed out was absolutely horrible.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman August 16, 2017, 07:12:45 AM
Yea, it was on there pretty solidly. The worst brake job I had was helping a friend with their late '90s Acura CL... In this design the brake rotor is attached to the back-side of the hub flange, so to remove the rotor you had to push the driveshaft out of the hub (which was inevitably very badly corroded), then remove the hub & bearing assembly from the suspension upright. Predictably, the bearing assembly was so badly rusted to the upright that we ended up having to disassemble the whole corner of the car to take it to a machine shop to have it pressed apart, and even then their press wasn't enough to get it to budge without some angle-grinding work too. What an awful design that was...
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: murz August 16, 2017, 07:52:21 AM
Wow, that sounds absolutely awful. I'm going to need to replace the rotors on the vert soon, and it's got me nervous.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman November 13, 2017, 11:05:14 AM
Lots of little things have happened to the various other cars (and ones in my inlaw's family... went to town on one with a 16 lb sledge hammer...), but the most visually exciting has to be the new wheel color for Annalie's winter shoes.

They were getting pretty badly corroded in spots, causing the original paint to bubble & flake off. Two of them would also develop a slow leak every year, despite having the tire place un-mount the tires and wire-brush the inside of the bead on the wheel. So, since I need to do a bunch of sanding and sealing anyway, why not make them a fun color?

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AdBSVvs4a0ypW1IFe5Cnl4lFG2V09qBft-yrL-ybeZqEGqFtqiV7rmQJP_xBWYmVqvY-vTxnJGoFSYYMaufzBiZzzSlEO2B0DVqAK8QhJkLIZWm2JGkrmA-EkXAmNiVxzMQzDylepkKim33iBZ4LeX6sIR1o1rFIY1skR8UC-HQQHeESQFxxx9ZKaBs4mPwo1rk8hB-KjBXPmymrX7cKb8f-GBH2SPVQMaeFR9iTOASII8FxSfyibKveXgGQX33TN77XNUWr0_wdoFvS7hwQeLYRNYPLv4vHZmaDWbm7MDZ7clF9pNuDZ80M9RBbii_ixCOCqwp_kDDLL5MINqrqn2Ei01_Po-SofqrpB3X4ZaJw0ViEUbEpTmSN4AGwac7oRH4erhyDVORDR5NRW0LEv75SrQDNV_Isu0MrdDYFk8ICbiawSM492M62qm0yULsBqDTcsnRYBgcH3S0o44cnnuudHL2cIHcqEBVDyxhXm9Nt_eqw-SSO8QdOz5rUuGgcOXnxdH9aBZHmj1rCZ64EZONnoFEDHtpgjJ72vSmwNyQ3IREfQlgIIy3P5RkmWONQ_DgURUYYi-ZpjP1S4ZUQ_lLgDeaSYR2BZwpVHtNWJsmCZbhatk6EZjQAL5JCBzCqbD00rPdXOyvi7bxvn88ZQdJz4hZ8lVdgXAE=w312-h553-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gES9MccMIzr8MTWbt9sJm_CG5lF3ypH7ZRxGsgIdyUGj2ayjtCDWR2umMrLQje-7F5qXlwovjgnX9x0ssMdOhieeeOnLPzQoGNHiDRiwL_5SmuCJrYayQ9AhFCbMV7H4MTWfk1NCyQaKDNMGrSQR7mTDk0_S0O7v8K_PmkYkLLGsRIykheNnzwvy3PN6-jcznaK7OlQMz3k_OUmopF10lQvw3KU0DlmmH2nZipJ2UrxzEMf9Z7ToxZMwIaJsgbQJw-oNqBa1VO6KVm_vhgWqh5EO_pd08TiI1nOSfQPBZU_Nd8HDscFTv9hEh4uPJQbKIXW8B7Uzgcwcik0wyMeqZyI42RfsZsvRN-xog6PnNJRCZNiXBb_UnUVLgcejvGRTcYdgpOiCdS-Y2uQRR3JDRZArYWrsk3-VLbAZVUYn6NKPjYnV_-gVgX36BgeMd6wVRbXxs_3EO3VKfm5T32hzR9E1w0TBV-Pi6VomQp48lfBm3Vu2v33RNHpbKKGuRjwc3PVS8g-35t3WURzfEzxk4WqvCmJ6786ErjujUaMXG7SueznNJaCwQKwFyY10J5TR_VRQsNdbbJ9gY_pH6wE9aEGJtWmD9Vg2GGAu704T41cFdU6lchKC5Afaa1pg6R4NkvvA5XMUrTijlvzm_5GMmEH98151hfjpIV4=w984-h553-no)

Just got Michelin X-Ice 3's installed on them - I had liked the Hankook i-Pikes that I had before (and they lasted about 55k miles), but they weren't offered this time around. They were good for deeper snow and seemed to keep their composure relatively well on the highway, so we'll see how the Michelins compare.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ November 13, 2017, 01:23:11 PM
nice.  Looks good.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: fidelity101 November 14, 2017, 08:56:46 AM
I like that green a lot.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman April 11, 2018, 06:54:44 AM
Well, I've been pleased with the Michelin X-ices this year, although I unfortunately never got to try them out on the frozen lake. Oh well, next year... The green is holding up surprisingly well for a rattle-can job too.

In other news, the Saab has gotten both rear calipers replaced because the parking brake mechanism failed and would not engage. This pic was from Sept, and the other one happened a few weeks ago.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yjQBBNf4PwmAGHcu0_M0dIUESjxa6OeB2_1L_hxGO03tg0g1kzYGhkQS-m8Z0RPJf14He2EthABEk3F6bhUaFmDBR9JKwLt6reGw_Ch8gLR0Qn371B-xHkknjM4vI4RZjmrOM8eGjfg1RSjf4M03pdWbsqEtpszgaF-hXVNXcrHrocl4kPjWaoBNbFWa38EUZEQxBIinfo3IFeYc665L6u0YJ1je_oeco4aMivbjxJcdVtKtM_0DeYH0I3qDdOwXef7yi9guUwtLSE9k2LPtEsNj6VnVqQtRt1h0aVqj0apSX-YDTvGM3FRBs3xvSMf2Iq9jmxi50_9uxYI0s6Sv1u65RzHCntg9azJDIWjQBnvLJlm2AAoGQjOG7QNKSg3F-TKECWIFLcPCapxL5KrnqLlCLDjWrZMGSTogpYN6z01OEKRKYRBTfIpVSUAF_42mkbzMjAvkV5JbZ7QigcsIvZCjCAgqArMyXJE5TkaamFneqgV_YdjUi7AxXoVXTppGXmyQStynALw5dtGcOLQorMVeT_2qQU5hiF9jSFZbW5VfK8PDvpASCHM05dyXjajsiRzOyh1E0G4eIDybXW81QbewEVIcAWjBabl8wJr_6vHrEXnHTiKtt89aIfTLRS8guNpb6cpfvMgZ_16qt561oK3_v-Jovn2m=w1023-h575-no)

My in-laws Chrysler Pacifica (the mid-2000s crossover, not the current minivan) got handed down to my brother-in-law and lost an engine mount that literally just rusted away, allowing the engine to move around the bay by 4 inches or so. No pics of that, but it involved partially dropping the subframe to replace it and the rear mount, and discovering that the subframe is showing some serious rust issues that will likely take it off the road in a couple of years.

Then, a worrying clunking noise started afflicting the front end of Bessie the Mazda5 - I figured it was the front ball joints since they felt a little loose, but the noise was actually the front sway bar bushings. They had become so loose, the end of the bar could move back and forth by an inch or more at each end. The plan had been to lower the front subframe a bit without removing it to unbolt the sway bar brackets, since they are wedged between the subframe and unibody. Then, I could get the bar measurements and old bushings, run out to the parts store, and put it all back together.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cve7LTIzNAavu5iZXvkM-n894bE0M_IEaZG-suzSB0faZGcwkNRk4EPiaBK_UXE09LHjql1deO8pGMi2hFAcC2mcjl6RDIw7pWObnONxy0mwltXW96eUwlazaKsGX00534M4waz11WDVWAr93xLGcvz2XJnEfna568CqoradgB_wAYRbf7HLO6qZMRaJhp8hpeOczlmDmCGVPJSGHFWn_bWqKdW1X0-gmlvFPgaKUp7jmJprKt9PqQ3cHH4fsjHU3rExtJehl5UsepLQ6SnKaQ-HL9opB0pGkVcaaEsmUQEERZglDS6dWh0S4icfhCOrEV1R3YZ_K4PywujDF1JnzhGeIm8NJEroRJTgzqYYdgqQoadVjXHsjrv3-8Y2HVTXyhLfkZHfTo8i2EVyYJ6E0iOvVF-VoeBzPl0cJNBOh63WC-XNqVuf5Vwf6c8lx_rSbgBR93hGR13t83fcnPCh1q2St5vRGpZKOK15FsLv5g6Cwi9zPROryktU7y8RVr_YSE_CBsDgA4O9Raj8UYMbKMdP3xWYob7k8cBMO6H7TwH-XNjF_m4MOETs4x9MWyHNjYVDZuGNkzBZcHauYWVZJi-2dIkysHF1lM0HuQPqXp5DWQeuiUcI5La-ieUB1thooT9Z-DISDoi2ujY0qm_b-9Bzy9VXVb7O=w1023-h575-no) (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OSMk4iTIaXmSAV0Gbgzs_65SyDFcmZr3KGuMHbqAB1atb9jBCT_Aqdd9ddvmYwXnrwqJu2SWQCHtBw4UCwdS-efa1d1CU4u-RUoX627L4pvgSL8HUBAcTe4VQkY03ELtTKn_nxJ8cFVKwNMAMBYgbyFtjSJxFQRQpjNhXTVfxDdn81njzvn8zJKyOpicfb1caBmQlmIkr88Lt75A_O6hTy-uN5j4dj9s7JsPosnO85C_eARs-1NvfLFOcQsXNfLcALvehZs_A8Gd7OZUG7XtirN9Yk4WGK-zxcbwcH5qG6TV8ie8zFTsrPJNQLyzz2Kf0nczbo-Acm_irJWjoO3PROcrvbISLWx3rfsQ82FiLpEbBoXpzeutWH28uNp9oK-rNNkix0OpIiUJvOg_gOoWLzVM3VQTO0xkBFCK_PM_RCgbh7ozSUplHYuMZITEz9Rvw_KTN_7AQglNIOKhuB9Oe69vzoRGwAzNjjGpqwDteAzgKNe2r68sRZexuf3nTDd6QAJqKkKuhflLY3r-X8AlL0uuhh-dBAO36RdElj0T-wSL2cWt_AopiLVcGOLNjKTy0eYTJjm9mA20LBqxswi-gzgEOVffFY_XqfhmQEtgZhLUUb8LS5_EjIyyQo1oKhL4Kka89RgXrwQUw_ApKFq0_JGveJdsfbNL=w1023-h575-no)

This worked fine on one side, and I was able to get everything off and confirm the problem.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2Z0I__W4HznjWc7F3qMl8ylBR8Kyfy2Iy73Q08BGc-H2SjTJfVT6qIgsYWNV5_VY_GjoPaI80-E1V6I7YQahMvYncXHzmCkBUsuNeaAGwpR0mmjbOd7eNqlgT7m8kC_bZ_H7Szz7RMsEplJiSKAPEJdW11RInx4qbwFsQt4hmKiYqHWyOOIbHEdjq43ReBW-wE2_coXTKVc_-fPLVUTNu5Gze0IVCFUdjMyIz7FuTHhByDstZQ1bgx5zWmhe4ftPtdBdFb17CwQs-ka3ZA9M25ihnkPzvLRF0f2g3xCrwxxM5OH95Bv524mGQunup05gJyc2Z8FR3FjAyuX3sYw0Yshv28aqx-xOx8vjwAVr92FR1X0EuoaBeq-JiOtP7pXDWT1SVI-aBAobSfVIBdAKqrOHce-Y4ch7uKsBiurlr9xr49LasTsWME_0l5-tN1zg0mw1TwN3P1d-pqUQ6A9y7yhSRZzrHCXpPl3vpN9Mk91Lah-xKcQIIVxNE2jXTt1xVosJmnmL7cLLW8TND0ttdjtz3B-EoGYVqj8UetFUZGbP86r0BoW6mBVjFGlQ26h4lKIwW7h8orCYxUVU9GldGXyTLXcu2t2WLV74_DIbMV26gTbHPDNsNW5330fmsQWpR_qZ9iQ7k_gvXGbwKNYGdrKC6Fq5v1Qw=w1023-h575-no)

The other side... not so much. One of the bolts came out without too much fuss (beyond the still very limited access to the bolt head), but the other one snapped off in the subframe. Well crap... that lead to removing the whole subframe to drill out and re-tap the broken bolt hole.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7LaMWaoKSLIsYuj1KcxZhZMG_UVEQPo2g87CUO1WAa4c3xdaQ4VsnalE5E9MNVUIZ75DgMwpxPc8lfB16lIlQMqnSdOF2OW3hX8RiWJBJlOhH5hxFmvj33a4Rcg3C_yKW1kUbb1g3rdS_S5F5T1btvyNbXtQs7kS5bS1tKTgzL4zPxPXAlezn3OxkQfPwq6bH8XgBh-vojzauChW0eX7a0u5oO3PiNG0abvnUaYOS6RLZ1G8KKf5438BXkljoPxbcFoy_enrhUlTaAm894_w6ovSNkT3BUX6bLKS-65IOeTuPCyCQxMvduomHKiVHWPDQAGnnYWqumPi-KaadBlnaWGdt_EtTpUzOsB37XDdaupNr010iSzR22xRpN29NEgoQNlR26zW_BKujTC45D4rrsA7ENcvSVzCNxRbiLNa3nXXPcqazhJW2GpcQcNrnqgP-oa2XrNCsFS_zuVxBahXoN1Wmleuw9hiRquEigGb7hdmZrcOb5vZl8fZuVv1ZZ6NjNTkAI8NkLrFH6zo9heeRvqwLMfMYYxQJDbqZZlg3a75VErlSshL9by9kL3q8o5h_DZrEjtJwev8Vpq9vLW-wCKRhDJebqFNc4xBMhOcklR5PBaQnYFXIkeofSaxQXnsrsytCdSxCPuKDL09mLpge5Bgiw9nG56F=w1023-h575-no)

At that point, I was running out of time, so instead of trying to find replacement bushings, I wrapped the bars tightly in electrical tape and cut off the excess so that they fit snugly in the bushings. Then, I wrapped the electrical tape in two layers of teflon tape (for sealing pipes) so that it would slide more smoothly and not try to peel the electrical tape off. This is a temporary solution, but for the moment its been holding up well with no clunking.

Then, finally, in January the drivers' side rear sliding door of Bessie came off the rear track while we were out for dinner one night, and I needed to get it back together and working well-enough on one of the coldest nights/mornings of the year that we could limp it along til warmer weather. This has been a fairly consistent issue, since the van has an interlock switch that will block that door about 1/3 of the way in its travel when the gas door is open, to avoid crashing the sliding door into the filler nozzle or gas door. However, this interlock tends to not only stop the door, but force it off the track in the rear, and the interlock can freeze in place so it stops the door despite the gas door being closed... Eventually, this happened enough times that the rear slider rail was bent, the rear rollers were messed up and coming apart, and the door fit poorly.

Anyhow, it started feeling rough again a couple weeks ago, but we were fortunately able to find an almost identical Mazda5 (same color even!) in a junkyard about 6 miles away, so I bought the whole door, rear track and rollers off that car to replace our whole door. The rear track had been changed in that time and was beefed up right in the spot that ours had bent, so it looks like Mazda was aware of the issue and fixed it in later model years. Now, the door fits and slides much more nicely, but I still have to finish stripping down the old door to remove potentially usable bits before scrapping the rest.

I think that gets us up to date with the other cars anyway...

: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman April 23, 2018, 07:19:01 AM
I did an HPDE at Waterford Hills on Sunday with a friend, and the weather was great! I took the Saab because of the roll bar issues with the 'vert, but in general she did well despite being a bit outclassed and on all-season tires. There was an AMG GT there, Mercedes CLK63 AMG Black series, lots of BMW M's, a Lotus 7 / Caterham 7 replica, an Exocet, and of course a ton of track-focused Camaros, Corvettes, Miatas etc.

Of course, every time I do one of these, it seems like Annalie develops a few new issues - not unexpected for a 12 yr old car with 214k miles, that was never really meant or designed for this. On the drive there, the engine developed a misfire when WOT between 3-4000 RPM, so I was shifting a lot more than I normally would be since I didn't have any replacement coil packs with me, and tightening the plug gap didn't solve it (although it did seem to help). There is also a vacuum leak somewhere, as the idle is a little high and bouncing, and I think I can hear some air escaping under full boost. All the extra shifting seems to have started to tear one of the engine mounts, since it seems like there is a lot of extra looseness in the drivetrain now. Also, there is a small but noticeable exhaust leak, probably near the muffler in back. In good news, the EBC Yellows seem to have held up very well - none of the overheating brake issues occurred and the brakes were very consistent. Next weekend I'll probably be switching back to the stock pads and chasing down all the other problems.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: murz April 23, 2018, 01:58:51 PM
I've been wanting to get into HPDE events, Waterford hills seems like a really good place to start off at. That's not bad for a car with that many miles!
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman April 24, 2018, 08:39:15 AM
Yea, Waterford is less intimidating than many larger places, and the speeds in general are a bit lower because of how tight it is. However, its still fun with a bit of surface and elevation change. I'd definitely recommend it!

The Saab held up pretty well - I think she surprised a number of people, including one guy with an E90 M3 that I was sticking tightly to for most of a session. The poor tires were begging for relief, but I'm constantly impressed by how capable she's been.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman April 27, 2018, 10:40:26 AM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q2GqisLuKrk7rXcQa2L3GCwPFa3bxA_vGDFGT7zy6sccUA6LWxB1slLbQSSls-vJWN1HMyPPyA08vRguPXma0IOjuz6sOwmY3YveQsPRWgJdRXD2tRbZ4eBo69tWCjGEC1YavAzdyujulaceBXpu2vF1nIdkxIyg09-abr9nDBw8oAcnuzgjJl7qZFsudMGf827iyk1_JQu54aTRJrXc_7Lh7WBWdydEC7CrOkmXsd1wTFVu9RQe-ee6iv3uaaoi9ema8yx19Ukx5ipOm5yGYplo1AJnA6raqcOYGHls-ODjTW7OtE2NpFKU6BMjcOhyXrvkENCjKyclalAncLT8xU98XZC7i2QPOXrT8ZhEOgULDcA3e2qaLs1WtyJxPY-k2PVmLLiPnZCkoRk1HISoDQZYj00rYhSRlHanhpXQwRih-imhSDodOx9U6KHlSt5jpdl-LpCG4RnsP-eAEbOvvdl8AqelnIBWyv3hY5aa8PW5EsXJG1RYmYd46UZBSQ3R_vkXL63q8eudB65dITuTQ3n9ZuKHQMbpY54RcR20KFw2EHEgTVl9QJFhZdph71D5U_vwT6fkTmTahHZTTLF0mo8p0a222VO2s_u-xwm0w-Uw_td0qkXLUaABqStbHRDejxLTyL9YK7u_5soeoSWv-Kl9gEGyr3z1=w605-h449-no)

Update on fixing the various issues that popped up - on the drive to the event, I noticed that the car was misfiring badly between about 2500 & 4000 RPM at WOT. It hadn't been doing that the previous time I drove it, and I didn't have any spare coils with me at the track. No CELs either, not even the generic misfire code. Re-gapping the plugs to 0.8mm didn't seem to make a difference, and when I went to re-flash from BSR stage 1 back to stock to see if that helped, the BSR tuner gave me an EEPROM error. Basically, it meant that I was just shifting much more often than I normally would to keep the engine speed over 4000 RPM.

Since last weekend, I've been doing the coil dance before each drive to or from work - I have 2 unused coils and was moving them around to try to find the bad coil or two with no change whatsoever. The idle was hunting slightly too, so I was also looking for a vacuum leak. Using the Torque app and a bluetooth OBD-II adapter, I could see that the fuel trim was high when idling, and that as boost built and the car went into open-loop, the O2 sensors both went very lean before misfiring... too much airflow under boost maybe? Since it built boost just fine (maybe even slightly quicker than I was used to), even when misfiring, I was thinking it may be a vacuum leak in the loop for the wastegate actuator that was preventing it from opening as intended and dialing back the boost slightly. However, everything there worked just fine when I hooked it up to the tire compressor - the wastegate moved freely, and when I jumpered the solenoid to 12V with the compressor hooked up it worked properly. Same for the BOV, crankcase vent, brake booster etc - all the lines were intact and not leaking.

Then, there it was staring me in the face...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/txU7KhQmHCNvdY8JicEIX6Hpq_dQiycwqPbEkeUBTpvZ55RXWOHgQH0SSwGa3eN5ZUjd2GEeq-ISHv_dY9OK94AdQmZsr0NXDKTeOcfHRDiYBUqUtJMJ-9LlQ72Nj8o2Uy3r_QrOySxtgke8f2I8UQlVrZW-TBa83RvL8AK_sH9q4288fNmzEb_NoQJBRr0razgHDwKwXJQPcmpNadXJXGvma0xd7EA-QvjnPQLtJk7_f2JzobyfxoIkJgnfJkEheU7uAIFm_8P-woAAI4ekyhd0Mob5pSbZ6bq-pFLM7y6Za1k2DdJMinJQM0ugWnnIKEgJczeM9MibNZnXbl6XuAa7Ki0Uezfne-cClozy1fhWtUJ8w84vnSHwGGnbGs0Q1v5U0UNBHciol_aIX7areJl53pBMfpBw0qUHHqLt_Tpp72WHFEpHv6eqEn5DwY1HXhocawOSKPyGasv4kILYPbRln1efmjsZmBQyS-WVMG6zIe5ZnPuLMJYdLS6LrWdC3RcEsco840btPfF6UFyBmQWwtEDxfc7BqlD-SNwUyTKmkTutPO9p0loQZCcTL3PtoNGrVJBzluFKNvQGdHpuP3mcJ-y54Ofd8T4Yvo2IEXpPinJQ8OeLHm3EDS4wcvxOY7s0CaXTXPLq-P5lbs8tqzlrTWRibAWp=w799-h450-no)

I must have accidentally pulled the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator off when changing the oil filter, so the fuel pressure was not increasing with boost and when in open-loop mode, the engine was going way too lean since the ECU wasn't compensating. At high boost when the difference would be greatest, the engine was so lean that the flame speed was seriously reduced and only a small part of the fuel was burning in the engine, with the rest burning in the exhaust, further spooling the turbo and making the problem worse. This would explain the lack of a CEL too - there was still burned mixture at the plug gap so the ionization module detected combustion, even if it was very slow combustion.

All this combustion in the exhaust did manage to melt a hole in the exhaust right before the rear muffler, where I had to repair the pipe with an autozone-special exhaust coupler and clamps due to rust. Plugging that vacuum line back in fixed everything, even with the old coils back on the engine. I'm very glad I didn't destroy the turbo, burn a valve or melt a piston!
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: murz April 27, 2018, 12:46:51 PM
Glad it was nothing serious!
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman April 28, 2018, 05:15:24 PM
https://youtu.be/hJ3lMiRJe1Y

Looks like I was generally doing about 1:30s, dipping occasionally into the 1:29s. I still need to really nail the corner entry into 1 and then into the long sweeping double-apex left-hander around the swamp onto the front straight
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman September 10, 2018, 07:14:48 AM
There's been a bit of work to the rest of the fleet - mostly smaller tasks like replacing a torn CV boot on the Mazda5 and a lower control arm on the Saab. I think I need to do the LCA again though, since the suspension feels very odd and makes a bad buzzing/vibrating noise on harder turns with that corner on the outside, and a new wheel bearing didn't make a difference.

Anyhow, the biggest of the projects was rebuilding a big section of the Mazda5's exhaust between the catalyst and the exhaust - there were numerous holes, basically whereever an exhaust hanger, support bracket or something else was welded to the pipe, it had rusted through and broken. There were two big sections - an S-bend after the cat that snakes down the central tunnel, then goes around the gas tank, underbody plastics, and parking brake cable to the driver's side. The section was about a foot and a half later, between the rear subframe and the unibody where access and available space is tight. Since I don't have a welder, this was all assembled with exhaust clamps and pre-formed sections, and a bit of creative cutting and re-shaping to make the roughly 45 degree section. The good thing about the exhaust clamps is that they also give a good attachment point to add an exhaust hanger or a stiffening bracket, which I tried to take full advantage of.

Here is the first S-bend section after a lot of cutting, fitting and massaging the pipes. It needed those angles to keep a decent clearance to the gas tank and everything else, so there was a bit of trial and error in getting things quite right. Then, there is some steel angle-iron used to make the stiffening brackets so that the joints hopefully don't flex and loosen up too much over time. The way the muffler hangs, it puts a bit of a twisting force on the exhaust too, which doesn't help things.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mdM4iE9gEbjPnppF-6JCNEzcyDtxtqSIkATmi0tGQd7Mdb20W884VQm7p1ZeFs8XvNrtDq7nFDrpfDwHJ3ljPdg2fIBsDLa0kMTSzPhnNgdg_Pu76hbWlk4PXmOLnH_RcVlNzizZXBwxhsmn2w0nKPtZA3GvVh9XSW7gYXYtiiwy9PlxZvM5DoJ3Ou_zGxcyyBRoCaPNMkuG_5gW-E2riNFgDdKfefmoh_xH3NDBTUGtCd4xwJixsMTWMrxe_LyJEGNj7ZMIapD7dI9pQiI4M4LWvpwCfaztjMtkwIIZDzdGn6yUBP3ur_KOgyjazbbRToiSeGqe2P_miWyKFJCJG6NTAr0gx_YF9BW02JO6f_ia3AQaxMRBIM5nwUGL7hwt2WbSHFRDKmOA_QaTXHIl_EjxhBmbcW_sXkCFothQMgQrmJfVf4d56cL9qZTPnjwDladQHYEdgCOe37tmeCwlr0S6k7Re3nhFafVxjh3oAbrkLO4sqy9GxcOpxZUyy6KNAyCsstug-2CSVwibB_Y-GRQX0xU5dPK8HTAuyCz1zFjkyJD1tCG4Kog-Mer0tvjIyRtobNMc9f4Lcy0eJOrIX2lk49VmdEEc52nw3anssGXDmGdmiakkfzkzvqdjDeA=w873-h491-no)

The section running over the rear subframe was mostly just a straight pipe, but it needed a hanger in the middle which was created with an extra u-clamp bracket, some square-section steel sign post, and a bolt. It can sort-of be seen below the original section of exhaust in the foreground in the image below, attached to the u-bolt that is facing the opposite way from the rest.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d3ZqFvk5t1Xmi1ybzAqIZ9C1TSkCw8i6cAuDUUUO_iwIkWCCITqRu0ZsrGFRWAY8cRAskc907rQk4ciFW7OdkMGKW1fI_WM6d0VadT7OahrjAWPT5QkdbZHDdBc98msnnXYjyYySapg4u6NEdOdvpSbkaCYa1-FD4dQWHrTko7yE1omWXi8IJE6mhzvp15qh0ZKeD-d1unEQiANlrYFtS35ogSTmSAducoDFD_CeN9qfWyn-bJuBn4PgeE23FrH_I0DMsbv9aN01zqeOWXdfq67KMF4vKhWOR1ycuB0peTtAvCRuGW5K3gH0ugfRsr3ADWYQh_B18PVFhwFKNjiIdkezfnzBKH5tAeC7iUI7hkeWtGAiKIRPcuE9mh5B_VviwHDFQZK_3kCqC8xHVmfuoOPsw6BoNREZQDBH-Z0qiWDRO0Ya8JpJ-29MKMlieCdYQHrMstDKhuYhKCm3WKozpVNb3MOXMpYo3rEhoggs7ZZcYLyS8n0RJv2YpErFzBxwgvZ7i0KGdFRHDE1ULpbgTXhW4Tv1sqq0jj9iwJRaSWs2JqvHvmRL9d9gqWqcZFvzG8u_k6QP_dGo89goAu4mtTP_xryAVgQX2Sy3lavfhm0YIXmXyqahjXsqKStWGu4=w873-h491-no)

A better view of a similar hanger used at the end of the S-bend is shown here.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z7O7-fmvq682qPoHt4Vv4I67qDH8L_4OG2yaO4ccB_4uIQTtaauzEzP9kbDbw8ArHCyd3hs_EAzbMAtn9VX47ImRZCI9iO8dWTyvZ-RwresrERlJoZSdsdQToaFvgizCD3krjXlA4T4rbTo2yH0ed7m_sninZK998Euutjg9tvxV524VcACkCZGBYSI_ZV6R9m24nquSPy38DWuNAKD4zsHxHx2dzd3hKwW0CUFZKa0GOPDB96pA6wKlF905uYv_7LQDR-cKLOhjrVHJ9s2l2u98Zx6S64jdnBeVPIqjxg2tGGSohEMaTDM5DzRxwEfHo7oAe2zVTw6n2W3mlj3Clj3BlTPR9EDxTm-rasxRzkJiANpghhrzYCDKkindrmStI6dcn1POakCJ-z1kUIDOMJFakVmjmP9t_wTz25NsSiHYbaCnnw-DmQblYgHcr8SKaS8ke1eUyLlEGJ9JU-ypiKT5WpwO3Kqvg3eeo86LMSMtJ9RK5mz_1WZQRiVxCcdGTL2Dlvr9gRwCnqhOB48YJxAA1P8jyDNpqru1spUY_EF7rmfNptnS3I39shntGuj9Wwb-eRs561zN2BVplGt8hAwSD2gbDjrYzWVBj47wf7DCjTagfH4gAlJaX8YLv_9q-xsyQlWNKo_7o4QuyWP8EjmHtKGrOAqtjOq9fExu_ggy-z29TBbvYSsv=w873-h491-no)

Ugh... rusty, rusty van
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman November 27, 2018, 08:00:30 AM
Well, the state of the fleet is in a little bit of disarray as I try to figure out what will best work for Paul, the three dogs & I as a second car, now that Helen is gone. I know that Annalie, my Saab sedan, won't be big enough since the dogs can't exactly go in the trunk, and fitting baby things like the car seat, stroller, etc for Paul will make it very tight. However, there was a manual '09 Saab 9-3 wagon on CL a few weeks back that had lower miles than my '06, and looked like it was in good shape for a good price. I ended up buying it and taking a few days to swap over most of the recent brake and suspension upgrades from my sedan, which also gave me a chance to make sure everything on the wagon was ready for the winter too. Hopefully, this car will be big enough for all of us, and allows me to still get use out of the various performance parts, second wheels with snow tires, and have something thats a bit quicker and more suited to the occasional HPDE or ice racing than the Mazda5.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zvSjJ9KruaMyLvuhlZZYXV636XO5urrp-MiZBsuM_tTgDBbiEJ5TL1r6io0i0qQwE78lHZ1e4FfrfsOHoffzbUCitlOsFWnNvZBYiGHNMdyLmSfIOk9XTlO608m4G5gUUnDrKcBPmo0tbP1RecWqOF2N1Ah1JudW-JoO0Ou9FTFXCQuq4IaH2wuwTgZhjze8YDRWyK4tizU5836u0yNSD2XyFEKeL5mzaoeGyQ6SLySvjJ5uPr1EUaj3b3Vo_MwIA_cyKCO9wiYpYWtsS8G1wOCwWaS1yBOFHLgOEU7qqfdSTZfScl6I5CoAJ0XUCPQhOS_IwTbQsObOEfg-6BP16OpVv8OVaUi0d50dWKLHAThPI_pkoSMzMTufAqGXPYjRHP9LTPHYcCuUqca1nmqT5Mn6SYHdT_GP_Y_H7317pTObfGbPfOx36XK3veAEagPnR9uDeyfWGNBRRMeRxaghAsdC0AgJ18MTY_bqsKxoO8uGFyrph0acooytKYBAwwLOfHO7r5HS-Lm9dGLk598PeS6hFaMWJ0aBoZp9hY99gN_4oihXGfd8yiIyXwm3PzaWkKwumsQ7q6b_06zEzY4Ry9lBRFrXtRSOynB1fugUf7LMHq0xQ4C32D0QHZ99Xc47C9gC4stulL55o4GtPhu9Wp5zAAfe3u6rYJzUn9OoEmVpTvfp2nK3lmw6c2sqWnAcagQcXLZXCXmk7bpDGg=w864-h486-no)

I think I'll call her Nina, after the previous owner who took very good care of her.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DFu4bB740fI8E1GpqmvNoAihydvDkRfH1R1hyazj-1GIAmRtZi7n3eZUKA2yF-EwuP_TyTAdRhkvxBD3vVwnDHCFoK5kNuJ-nipdanzioXgN63Ilkfk1aD8qyiYKp8D2cbcryom2ZJAy0pIfbRkZeVleRCItppO4k5Q74AzzraE0_7Wn0Sn3vAS7-PqvuK6v4otrswippFrjgusClJH6k0YZ5oFDmZxhff_4mD9VYH1SvkxqghyEiKiqnIkyTWzBN-EmIdUb14NLL6auy6uR5vQF6N4JsSTKm22MoOza65F5ZZNJy-OgOx79qdoN6B4DuvK4LyE_b_VLiXTyb9_fJc2rclBQMfz3xsQadqFF-P-8hPbRja367nu1xegl6uW5LEi7AQ1aP3J_tVGZVcpI_6b_rLTg7LpBQRijlgSIdWU3xfoGxOhU3e6t0qM2aIC6X6EhM6YRycRDZbk-vd4VpsrR3ZKEAjnH_wmG_4Q8RaogIahxFpzreGs7Woou4vI1p3gsA4nnHEogAIkF_QG_zKTKwiCBkBPD1qCvMvspgEohEqY_2hovp8bkzsxFfeWrPnRn1r8FDa_Ovu4UWYtObZENgnCC_7KZ0F1b7ikFmZ3EGfeHtwQJDIsaMHAXXubKPLikUrlOLHNOThMVZN50wRk1iW4yzsGWCe8-yWgjoJ2AKSkTBq9LAdMwTNjrr586LwLGUqzJd0t0rWFK5w=w864-h486-no)

Annalie is now for sale - discounted price of $2500 for you guys.
https://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-saabt-5-spd-manual-bsr/6755026663.html

As for Bessie, the rusty-van... I need to decide what to do with her still. If Nina works out, she'll be for sale too, but I need to wait and see whether the road trip back out to NJ over Christmas proves that Nina will be large enough or not. She probably only has a few more salty winters in her before rust is too bad, and needs a new set of winter tires, plus she is a lot louder and less refined on the highway where I do most of my driving. Helen really liked her though, and she is still fun to drive with lots of life left in the powertrain & suspension. Either way, not for sale yet, but we'll see.

: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ITSWILL November 27, 2018, 04:59:32 PM
Those are sharp looking cars.  Funny, my ice racer is named Nina after a friend from college. 
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ December 10, 2018, 08:24:23 AM
Glad you have been getting things together since everything happened.  If you need a hand on anything, just let us know.  We are willing to come over and help you.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman December 11, 2018, 03:13:34 AM
Thanks I appreciate the offer :-)

The Saab sedan Annalie sold a couple of weekends ago, $3000, so I'm happy with that. Bessie (Mazda5 van) is going to be hanging out until at least January when I'll be sure that Nina (Saab wagon) is big enough for a trip back to visit family with Paul & the dogs. Otherwise, its just been small things here & there - getting Nina programmed so that the horn doesn't honk when locking/unlocking, disabling the TPMS system & automatic headlights, etc. She drives nicely and has been holding up well so far.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman February 18, 2021, 11:56:19 AM
Well... A bit has happened since the last time I put anything in this thread! Vera the RX-8 has been added to the family, we've got Gina's Subaru outback (A boy named Sue), and Nina the Saab Wagon was sold about 2 weeks ago for $4500, so $700 more than I paid back in 2018 although the used market is stronger now than then, plus she got a lot of maintenance in that time. Finally, last weekend I flew out to CT to pick up a 2012 Mazda5 minivan, with manual trans of course!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f6kqzF00_CD42peu-ggSCeYUgMVarRvn8qrr8e8hvBIXmULcYgiEPWgit7N6EG5mCWxj9PTEhAHmdSF1rvivmWWVHg9i88DONGA-0PM5wnhheZipRfrLYPTL6NMheAd47SXEV5r2N0U2RvEMitSZli=w1175-h881-no?authuser=0)

She has 108k miles, feels like everything is in good shape, minimal rust(!!!), and should be just what my growing family needs. The 2012s have a much-needed 6th gear for the highway in the manual trans, and more sound deadening, so the 700 mile trip back from CT to MI was pretty comfortable. I'm ordering a trailer hitch, roof racks etc for road trip duty, and will need a new set of wheels for summer tires (the 16" OEM ones are in decent shape, but will need new tires soon so they'll be the winter wheels). However, for the most part she'll be staying stock. Still need to decide on a name for her...
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ February 19, 2021, 05:58:23 AM
great buy.  didnt know a mini van existed in a manual anymore.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman March 23, 2021, 10:54:36 AM
Well, Kaylee hasn't been quite as trouble-free as I thought... There has been a persistent oil smell in the cabin since I got home, and finding the source of that sent me down the rabbit-hole. On the drive home I didn't notice it at all, but I had spent an hour in the car with my mask on driving it from the airport with the salesman so I may have acclimated without noticing. Then of course, I picked up the old transmission, driveshaft, and rear end from the RX-7 to bring out to MI, so any oil smell was easily dismissed as coming from them.

However, that smell lingered for at least a month, and got me worried about something else burning oil. I couldn't find any signs of external leaks hitting the exhaust or manifold from the engine, trans, driveaxle boots etc, but there did seem to be very strong air pulsations out of the oil cap - more than enough to pop the cap off if it was sitting loosely on the fill hole. The pulsations seemed to line up with the frequency of one cylinder as well. Typically, this is due to high blow-by and possibly a failed PCV. A cold compression test gave about 140 - 145 psi across the board, so there weren't any stand-out cylinders - all were low. Hot compression was about 150-155, so a bit better, but the range for this engine is 134 - 192 psi so I'm still at the low end. Even more telling is that hot compression with a bit of oil poured into the cylinders to help the rings seal was around 180 psi. Well... crap. Not terrible, still within specs, but not great either.

Anyway, to try to get to the bottom of things, I picked up a cheap bore-scope that's basically a tiny camera & lights that plug into your phone for about $25. The quality so far is about as good as other bore-scopes that I've used, and the very stiff cable allows some ability to point it in a certain direction. Anyway, for the most part the bores looked good, with notable cross-hatching on all of them. The most wear that I could see was on the thrust-side of Cyl 3, where you can see a number of vertical lines, but none of them appeared very deep - I couldn't see any shadows but again it's hard to tell. In this picture, the piston top has some MMO on it since I had been soaking the engine for about a week to see if I could free up any stuck rings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eOhBucUIBwyYp17gGJBT0h2iqlqnMK0ifMM76y0ehx2sgzl5igyLlUoywoVfqLUL-gAq4dx3gwaJTN2RcBMC-9nTy9fNDnn4VmWpAsiJMh8y4Vu1WTZ9UhvGjOQ09Y40Udug0rdPUBj0N_pL3tvTOa=w640-h480-no?authuser=0).

I also used some PB-blaster to soak the rings for a day or so, followed by an oil change to see if that'd help the rings seal any better. Changing the PCV required removing the intake manifold which was a bit of a task, with a few of the bolts requiring blindly feeling around with a combination of extensions through holes in the manifold. It was a four-hour job, with a lot of that from unfamiliarity.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fr3ItNYHnJbeMSVL7JStPB3QFRudpuh4VHLnOcoA1_DPtH0GC3K0l-udHlxIruiQwmtZqlz4b-3dm8dGAnc41cVVl9Rm90kFVcZLRT0R0sE9qIzudWnMeA2Vaf9pR7WrL8xAjLZhyjUOemYaZfdCI8=w1122-h841-no?authuser=0)

Once I got down to the PCV it appeared to be working fine, and all the hoses and other connections were not blocked. There was a bit of oily residue on the inside of the manifold and ports, but that's expected with EGR and the PCV connected. The intake and cylinders got sea-foamed shortly after reassembly to try to clean things up, and the MAF and throttle were cleaned independently.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fwYS714e544xzLFp1XRJNp4A3n6zpuqXe4dbAjeBUt9-0yLzPlweoshItx82YmGgpT_2wsW8CEHMO7Ubm0JIXhVeA0Rbd4nC2o3ocwOWPtFnngBLcWjRHY6NbClbGSVjIQXJrDZkjkC7GZ8juXJCrS=w1122-h841-no?authuser=0)

All the time she's been driving fine, and I haven't noticed any changes in performance from the driver's seat. I did a bunch of cleaning in the interior (it was already very clean, with the carpets appearing almost new and only a couple minor stains on some of the seats). For a while, you couldn't smell much over the vinegar and lemon smells, but baking soda sprinkled on the seats and left in an open container seems to be absorbing most of the smells. So far, the oil smell seems to have mostly gone away, but I haven't driven Kaylee very far since then or done much highway driving. All the cleaning and soaking of the rings seem to have helped a little - the compression pressure increased another 5 psi or so since the last warm test, so we'll see how things go on that front. Worst-case scenario, new engines for these are $500 - $700, so that'll probably be the way I'd go for minimal down-time instead of rebuilding and reinstalling the current engine.

Otherwise, two of the tires are pretty worn, and one of the ones that still had a bit of tread depth just developed a nice sidewall bubble, so it's time to get a set of 17" summer wheels & tires, with the OEM 16" wheels pulling winter duty. I got a set of 17" x 7" OEM Mazda 6 wheels for $80, and one of them was cracked so a good junkyard replacement was $50, so $130 for the new set. A few cans of paint later, and...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ebP_GxheUBO1vnrvgCRWeUkiWQ3jkFZrUY-yLPL-f0FzlQ2u8Xe-YMu45nVHIZ8AbQPjXIg81yWd7yNzBnEsor0DedbKPUB0s0Xg3v7yoQKIbjdIZcmANnuw6q-MZ9cBKJ0Nex1t7sQ_xSUevN_4mG=w1122-h841-no?authuser=0)

It's a bronze/gunmetal color that should hide dirt and brake dust pretty well. I kind-of wanted to go with a brighter gold, but couldn't find a specific color that I liked. The greens that I've been using for the RX-8 and the Saab before would clash terribly with the red paint, so those were out. The tires that came on the wheels are shot, so new tires are getting installed later this week (and I didn't bother to mask the old ones since they were getting tossed anyway).
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: ~Groll69~ March 25, 2021, 12:42:44 PM
the rims turned out well.  glad you got some improvements out of the engine. and it puts you mid way on the compression so that is a bonus.
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman March 26, 2021, 08:19:34 PM
After another week, and the oil smell does not seem to be coming back. Additionally, unscrewing the oil cap and trying to pull it out while the engine is idling shows that there is now a vacuum in the crankcase too, which indicates that the blowby issue has disappeared! The compression pressure seems to be about the same, roughly 155 psi when warm, so I don't know if that's going to improve any further, but the crankcase vacuum is still very encouraging.

Additionally, the "new" used Mazda 6 wheels now have tires and are installed (although Discount Tire really screwed up the fresh paint on them - they handled the painted winter wheels for two other cars fine, but these got really beat up), the brake system is flushed, and I went through the various plastic panels and heat shields to add foam and other sound-deadening material. At this point, Kaylee is feeling like a new car!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fvJNEBpfIlIYQz5N1Od-H0Pe64q_VEqCHs84QqwW8816pH9DbENuyL4eENXqTevUR9mRTcronwxQqPda9hgEos5qS4MDcDhoqnL24kyYKcgSNNYhur2uyCHk7tct0tPHmMgO7hQ2CfvZZFN1IROd73=w1099-h824-no?authuser=0)
: Re: The rest of the fleet...
: toplessFC3Sman June 17, 2022, 06:28:44 AM
When swapping the summer wheels back on a few months ago, I noticed that one of the rear shocks was leaking badly and the rest all seemed a bit soft at the very least- it looks like they were all still OEM parts at ~122k miles. Anyway, they all got replaced with Bilstein B4 shocks - slightly stiffer than new OEM but still appropriate for stock spring rates & ride height. They were notably stiffer and more controlled than the worn out shocks that were there before, but still provide a good ride. At the same time, I greased up the bottoms of the front springs and both sides of the rears where there was a little bit of abrasion, slid some fuel injection hose over a coil, and reinstalled into new mounts. This should better protect the ends of the springs and slightly increase the ride height (maybe 1/4" in front, 1/2" in back with two hoses) so that the van is a little more level when loaded up with a cargo carrier hanging off the rear rack.

To avoid messing around with spring compressors when replacing the front struts (those things scare me a bit), I was using a jack under the lower control arm and the knuckle to gradually relieve the spring compression to disassemble it from the worn out strut (with the jack & LCA constraining the bottom end of the strut so it wouldn't fly apart when unscrewing the nut on the shock shaft), and then doing the reverse using the jack to re-compress the spring until the shock shaft pokes through the upper mount and I can get the nut onto it. On some cars (my previous Saab 9-3's for example), this can all be done without removing the driveshafts, but the Mazda5 required the the LCA and knuckle to swing down further, which pulled the inner CV joint apart internally and pulled that joint off of the intermediate shaft (I was working on the passenger side first). My guess is the MZ5 springs are softer but longer than the 9-3's, therefore the uncompressed length is significantly longer. Anyhow, I then had to remove and rebuild the passenger's side axle in addition to the struts. To avoid all this on the driver's side I pre-emptively removed the axle nut to allow it to slide in the hub splines, which worked better.

After doing all of that, the driver's side front wheel bearing got loose (I suspect I may have caused that by allowing the spline to slide in the hub, which could have pushed on the hub and un-seated part of the bearing), but this time the drive axle nut needed to be cut off the drive axle - it had completely seized up (probably contributing, if the threads were messed up then it'd get to torque before being fully tight). Once that was off, I was using one of the on-car wheel bearing pullers that you rent from auto parts stores, but the wheel bearing was so rusted in place that the puller broke one of the caliper mounting ears off of the suspension knuckle!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWOTJ9ftX9NjsHuF5ngx_-AGfD_XqZzJallJ7xhD-I9Tw5Pbv4LGkonVkp4EBP9V0oNaA_tE3wR0-rG2k-DI54DhikKpjV1oGs8nhYU2OKuD4DjWuzPmpSXm9hD6eVimxeIsKkaphL7sPmvXGF3PMjC=w1038-h778-no?authuser=0)

Cue a couple weeks of waiting for a new knuckle from Mazda since I originally ordered the wrong side (the picture was for the correct side and I was doing it on my phone...oops) and no wreckers had it within 100 miles or so, but when I finally got it everything went back together without a hitch. So, lots of extra work caused by my aversion to spring compressors....