Michigan Rotary Club
Generation Specific => 2nd Generation Specific => 2nd Generation Build Thread => : fidelity101 August 11, 2011, 08:03:24 AM
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I\'ve had this car for a long time so here it goes.
Sold my 240sx for more money than I bought it for (thank god for the fast and furious movies) and bought an rx7 along with some toys for it.
only have a few of the two together
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v67/193/88/40004644/n40004644_31183831_901.jpg)
I am the 3rd owner, the 1st owner drove it and the rear rotor went out on it and it sat in their backyard in South Carolina until that person sold it to the guy I bought it from in boystown area Chicago.
I bought it in the spring of 2006.
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420038_medium.jpg)
it didn\'t start out to be a rally car but its making its way that way now as the years move on, its had a crazy life and lots of changes. Gotta love this chassis.
it started out as this to me:
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420008_large.jpg)
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420009_large.jpg)
it had knock off crappy beat up \"racing\" seats and with a smokers grey interior but working ac, ran kinda crappy but had this motor rebuilt on it with about 55k miles, and yes that is some home made vent he cut in the hood.
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420010_medium.jpg)
The guy I got the car from didn\'t know sh*t about mechanics but he managed to put an aktins rebuild but the car hesitated (bad grounds)
ran fine for a while and did some work to it:
PIAA yellow fogs
Atkins streetport
3mm apex seals
Tokicko blue shocks
tanabe GF210 springs
Ported and polished throttle body
momo wood/aluminum steering wheel
battery relocated
Centerforce clutch
Racing beat aluminum flywheel
12a tranny mod (shorter 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears)
Manual steering rack
Air conditioning removal
Air pump removal
ACV removal
Racing beat header/presilencer/cat-back
S4 clutch type LSD 4.10 ratio
Weight reduction (lol)
5th/6th port & sleeves removed
Dual alternator pulley mod
Battery relocation
Audi A6 dual electric fans
NGK plugs/wires
C-Wings GT3 fiberglass hood (functional scoop)
15x6 OZ lancer rally wheels (made by enkei FYI)
205/50/15 avon M500s in the rear
205/50/15 dunlop direzzas in front
wiperless hatch
then after several months later I decided to fix that hood with something lighter, was planning on a molded FC turbo scoop hood but I got this hood from the same guy because he didnt like the way it looked with his body kit.
(http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v45/193/88/40004644/n40004644_30912389_1533.jpg)
and then this happened that winter
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420012_medium.jpg)(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420013_medium.jpg)
and that led to primer:
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420015_large.jpg)
so that leads to Honda OEM Grand Prix White, aka s2000 pearlescent white :) only 900 dollars for everything, labor/parts because I had it done by a friend of mine at school who was going through the auto body program.
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420018_large.jpg)
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420022_large.jpg)
updated with S5 tails in the process, even had the moldings painted :D
and then the summer hit...
time to sharpen \\\"Snow White\\\" up
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420028_large.jpg)
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420032_large.jpg)
new interior, got rid of the gray and I\\\'ve always been a sucker for the red shag carpet interior in it so I swapped from gray/blue to red/wood
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420034_large.jpg)
got the wheel from my friends dad who is a big euro car nut and its a real momo wheel that was attached to a momo hub that matched some benz models and the shift knob was made by another friend of mine\\\'s uncle
and ran like this:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hN5XoCaW34[/youtube]
The car runs great and kicks ass till next fall around late October and blew up the atkins rebuild, broke the rear exhaust diffuser apart and it was rattling around in the port along with cracked housings around the sparkplugs.
I part out the motor to fund me buying a running S5 NA motor along with some other misc rx7 parts
(http://hphotos-snc1.fbcdn.net/hs032.snc1/3226_570922435101_40004644_33735843_3392717_n.jpg)
my closet turned into an engine \\\'build\\\' room, painted some stuff before dropping it in
(http://hphotos-snc1.fbcdn.net/hs032.snc1/3226_570922509951_40004644_33735857_8320463_n.jpg)
and if your eye is good enough you can catch the solid mounts dangling on the passenger side... but there are also made solid trans mounts which was free because I had yet another friend who machined them for me for a 6 pack of beer :)
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs032.snc1/3226_570922475021_40004644_33735850_3520979_n.jpg)
engine bay gets painted to match the rest of the car, very few blue is left...
ceramic coated the header before dropping it in, keep the heat in where you want it.
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updates!
know what that is?
(http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/5202/dscn1046d.jpg)
its porting templates!
so I got more practice lapping and began practice porting, fun mistakes happened and etc.
looks like this:
(http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/795/dscn1040.jpg)
and the housings are now painted!
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1670/dscn1041s.jpg)
front cover is primed and I sanded off the 13b mazda on the housings, looks cool.
thats the engine build table, so thats what the engine will look like, black and blue sandwich plates
(http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/9923/dscn1047.jpg)
soft seals for rebuild from rotary aviation (more aircraft grade RE stuff)
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/387/dscn1048.jpg)
and the good/reusable hard seals/springs, rotary aviation apex seals
there is an excess of seals and springs and within spec from tearing down sooo many motors.
I should probably just build a 2nd motor....
updates!
ported the exhaust housings and put in turbo exhaust inserts, nice and flow friendly :)
ported vs stock port with the inserts out
(http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/20/dscn1052w.jpg)
cleaned up, inserts in
(http://img138.imageshack.us/i/dscn1075x.jpg)
(http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/4651/dscn1076b.jpg)
(http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7035/dscn1075n.jpg)
much better than this:
(http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/183/73005843.jpg)
they put those in the NA ones for noise suppression, more like exhaust restriction...
megasquirt is on the way as well as some rebuild gaskets.
spring break 2010~!
(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/5544/dscn1117p.jpg)
fully assembled in the kitchen/living room (small place)
(http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/6996/roomd.jpg)
and yes my roommates and I like to party...
Megasquirt2 vb3 w/ goodies for ignition and fuel? hrmmmm okay lets give it a shot
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs378.snc3/24209_616962655131_40004644_35239999_5257857_n.jpg)
but the engine is in the car mounted up fluid filled and etc.
but the body harness is shot which makes things impossible at times...
so with coincidentally I needed a new gauge cluster I decided to finish the wood theme...
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs068.snc4/34760_629709210931_40004644_35652087_2198260_n.jpg)
Fuel level, h20 temp, oil pressure, tach, wideband. (KISS - keep it stoopid simple)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs149.snc4/36823_636181510391_40004644_35864880_5132182_n.jpg)
sicc, right? I thought so :P GO WOOD OR GO HOME LOL!
long story short I have a history of bad luck with electronics so I decided to go this route instead. (and STILL with a bad body harness)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs581.snc3/30681_626936552361_40004644_35552035_1215253_n.jpg)
Mikuni 44 PHH racing carb
current engine bay:
(http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1682/20101006191040.jpg)
current driving condition of rally vehicle.
(http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/2042/20101006190306.jpg)
2 KC 100W spotters and 2 KC 100W fogs, turns night into day and makes it seem that God is coming down your street.
next step/pre ice racing season work:
turbo drivetrain and brake swap from this donor car:
BEFORE-ish
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs135.ash2/40073_636465082111_40004644_35873613_4166102_n.jpg)
AFTER
(http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/2249/gone.jpg)
powder coating rear suspension, powdercoating front LCAs, powdercoating rear wheel uprights, reinforce diff, poly suspension/diff bushings.
started on it already but I have ALOT more work to do including replace bearings/bushings:
(http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6901/20100906145530.jpg)
mount studded snow tires on factory turbo wheels
(pics soon to come)
but most importantly REWIRE CHASSIS! clean up the gawdy engine bay wiring as well as remove the useless wires that are in the car doing nothing.
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some teaser work:
(http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/9924/20101013211836.jpg)
yes that is part of another engine. details of which are still fuzzy but expect a new engine after a cage gets in there with over 230whp N/A but there are a lot of ideas still in the works.
YOU KNOW WHAT IT IS!!!!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UePtoxDhJSw[/youtube]
well not black and yellow but more like green and blue!
Getting the car ready for ice racing! although the season already started I got this done to it.
(http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1889/rear1.jpg) (http://"http://img255.imageshack.us/i/rear1.jpg/")
things you may not notice....
poly bushings in the blue swing arms
mazdaspeed front diff mount
(http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/8159/rear2.jpg) (http://"http://img813.imageshack.us/i/rear2.jpg/")
more things you may not notice....
KYB AGX adjustable struts (all 4 corners)
mazdatrix adjustable endlinks (all 4 corners)
stainless brake lines (all 4 corners)
rear toe steer eliminator delrin bushings
new wheel bearings
things you may notice
no more 4 lug!
turbo2 drivetrain!!!! (beefy)
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9033/rear34.jpg) (http://"http://img204.imageshack.us/i/rear34.jpg/")
ebay/china special on brake rotors/pads:
(http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9596/20110126235920.jpg) (http://"http://img211.imageshack.us/i/20110126235920.jpg/")
it sounds more like a snowmobile with the studded tires on the road...
sh*t just got reeeeel
Picked up new gravel tires and wheels (pics to come later)
(http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/6378/imag0119sh.jpg)
(http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/7527/imag0127ge.jpg)
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1014/imag0118r.jpg)
rhino lined the interior
Just finished re doing the engine bay, stripped and gutted. Just finishing the rewiring this week.
perma sleepy eye setup to come next week, no more bulky motors and pop up system.
Folded aluminum dash and AL door panels in the near future, before the end of August.
until then, I am bored at work:
(http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/677/imag0124w.jpg)
more updates next week on the rewire and dashzillia.
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Man that is alot of work you have been puting in. great job and keep us updated.
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Wow, its looking awesome! you've put a lot of work into her!
The colors of the rear suspension pieces remind me of a project I did in college to model the motions of the rear suspension, and the CAD model was all different colors like that.
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Man that is alot of work you have been puting in. great job and keep us updated.
It didn't start out this way, then I look back and have realized I've owned the car for nearly 7 years
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UPDATES!
July rallycross ended on the 21st, this August's was on the 20th, got the entire rewire and re interior and underhood (except lighting) done in a months time :)
rewired done! (pre-passenger seat)
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/4349/imag0151xt.jpg)
work in progress at TRF
www.thompsonracingfabrication.com
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/2576/imag0163a.jpg)
alllmost...
(http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3105/imag0164b.jpg)
DONE!
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3143/imag0175gk.jpg)
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/1073/29111710100829842909970.jpg)
(http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/8312/30278510100829823603660.jpg)
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4776/33646010100829840988820.jpg)
yes there are no headlamps because I'm almost done doing my perma sleepy fix'd setup:
(http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/4686/imag0186k.jpg)
more photos of that this week. (^ just a mock up) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/imag0151xt.jpg/)
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(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8070/imag0187v.jpg)
:D
TIRES!, 25 of them! (organized group buy)
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8171/imag0084ty.jpg)
(http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/6238/imag0077tx.jpg)
(http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/6285/imag0078rj.jpg)
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nice tires. i am going to have to get me a new set of rear tires all too soon for the wife's vert, along with new shocks
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Nice, you got a ton of spares there! Are they all for dirt, or are there some for other surfaces in there as well?
My buddy was out at the aug rallycross in a white Nissan 4-dr Frontier, he said it was a great time.
Do you work at TRF, or know some guys there? They certainly seem to do very good work
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actually I sold 5 of those sets. Organized a group buy for 25 lightly used gravel tires and for doing all the legwork, I made 40 bucks after breaking even AND 1 mint set of gravel tires.
I have the following sets of tire/surface/wheel
street summers/vert BBS 15"
studded winters/S4 t2 wheels 16"
gravel tires/GTU s5 wheels 15"
w/e the fuck tires for drifting/shennanigans - GXL S4 swasitkas (haven't picked them up, at a buddies place)
I have a tire/wheel combo for every surface :)
I also have Tien springs on vert struts for when I want it for on road looking good mode, but it still sits too high so I may cut them and just throw them on to get lowwwww, or go to drift events.
I saw your frontier friend there and he looked like he was having a blast, you gotta come next time. you can drive my car if you pay my entry fee! I'll take care of the gas and oil.
I met owner at the rallyX and never heard of it until then, he did the dash and I like supporting local friends/business IE the TIM stickers on the car is my friend Paul with Team Illuminata Motorsports.
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UPDATES!
(http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/4625/74847763701bf3bbf32db.jpg)
(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/7287/74847537081d5ee1eccakh.jpg)
okay not really, here are some new shots and here is the to do list to get ready for winter:
(in no particular order)
1. remove sunroof structure/affix sunroof
2. wrap header (have had wrap for quite some time now)
3. fabricate additional skidplate
4. minor gas leak
5. replace heater core
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I haven’t updated this in a while but there haven’t been too many changes, but basically I have just been going through some things. I decided to clean up my electrical fuse panel:
Before:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img855/9770/imag0549d.jpg)
and after
(http://imageshack.us/a/img16/5381/imag0550l.jpg)
Did some more of this:
(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6357/dscf5900f.jpg)
(http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/9045/dscf5902a.jpg)
(http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/1866/dscf5973e.jpg)
Then I went racing, did a 2 day event in Ohio for rallycross. Took 3rd overall in my class for the weekend, would have taken 2nd but I blew one run really bad and almost got stuck. Still had a good time, the 2nd place trophy is not as nice because it doesn’t open beer bottles:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img843/518/imag0508d.jpg)
Also from that event it was very dusty and I realized that my air filter had basically failed and I had to create a ghetto filter for the rest of the event.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img248/5884/imag0519m.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img20/7772/imag0517z.jpg)
So after that I do some more racing, go to Muskegon for furrin group’s 1st rallyX. My first run I blew the clutch. 3rd to 1st shifts make clutch angry. It was stuck engaged:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img836/3941/imag0530pn.jpg)
got a little muddy at another event:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img822/2742/imag0016th.jpg)
Decided to further enhance my air filter situation by longer horns and new filters
(http://imageshack.us/a/img546/5156/imag0523ml.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img835/8609/imag0522z.jpg)
then I race some more and loose a nut on one of my suspension bits causing the toe to change in corners and the axle separated:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img507/5636/imag0534e.jpg)
fixed it and drove home but DNF for that day after the 1st heat.
I have always hated my cooling system, mostly just tired of going through stock radiators. So I call my friends at griffin
(http://imageshack.us/a/img29/550/imag0133n.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img443/6137/imag0131tv.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img521/5004/imag0190s.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img801/5730/imag0189v.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img688/4045/imag0188l.jpg)
and some help from TRF again on mounting (I cannot weld, especially aluminum)
I never have cooling issues now, except when I went to this magical place called snowdrift!!!!!!
(http://imageshack.us/a/img15/3665/imag0687q.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img341/1415/imag0686ca.jpg)
REAL wheel drive
I required lots of cardboard to keep it from over cooling with the radiator and hood setup.
So here is the current fleet (not in current weather conditions)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img11/763/imag0494cy.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img607/4817/imag0401g.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img850/9531/imag0400g.jpg)
except the front bumper is slowly becoming sticker bomb, with actual stickers
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Nice, are you going to be ice racing this weekend? I am super excited to make my MIRA debut.
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So I have not updated this in a while:
You know when your a tire whore when...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img547/8199/rz74.jpg)
You know you are rotarded when...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img690/2967/o4nf.jpg)
I've have had these for the longest time but never got around to installing them. I powdercoated them (and the brackets) myself when I had the get up and then had mazdaspeed competition bushings installed.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img30/8040/ar4e.jpg)
mmmmmmmm tires...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img401/6885/s0i7.jpg)
Normally I reserved these wheels for road tires only but they look too damn cool to be not utilized essentially...
Also not pictured are new 205/55/16 WS60 Blizzaks for ice racing season. (potentially) I should be saving for a house but wheel-to-wheel ice racing during every sat/sun of Feb sounds more excellent...
Completely re-wired and re mounted these:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img855/1693/g1nq.jpg)
nice GM sealed weather pack connectors, no more shady trailer plug connector.
oh... herro there...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img703/7479/z9qi.jpg)
Just on the backs right now, fronts need attention too.
Did pretty good at the day/night rallycross. took 3rd out of 11, only had 1 clean run all day but it was good for RWD FTD!
lots of blue smoke, burned a lot of oil, hard to start in 20 degree weather etc. Only had some minor drama. Fan control relay failed and the engine overheated, coolant pouring out of the overflow and somehow at this same time the oil pressure sending unit failed but we had plenty of oil pressure.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DN1oGRR6i0Y/UojWvRNvffI/AAAAAAAAF7k/ya-_YBvuXb4/s720/Afterburner.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aw_d7MEjXew/UojZnWxyjxI/AAAAAAAAGFc/g8mo1T9dags/s640/P1060876.JPG)
We ran 3 drivers that day, (my 2 roommates and I)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sbtxtDtMmuM/UojYoP4h3aI/AAAAAAAAGDE/njbS7UQxr30/s640/P1060852.JPG)
next up:
front shocks
overhaul engine
rear wheel bearings
misc rear suspension link replacement
overhaul diff (maybe)
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Damn, looks like you're having a lot of fun with it!
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the engine just wont die! I'm hoping to have the next one (small PP) to be done by march (I want this engine to reach 4 years old) then pull this engine and toss it away.
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Happy to hear you might make it out to MIRA. It was a ridiculous amount of fun last year. I would like to see how the 7 fairs on ice.
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Happy to hear you might make it out to MIRA. It was a ridiculous amount of fun last year. I would like to see how the 7 fairs on ice.
My starter is getting pretty weak and the compression is very low (I can spin the e-shaft with my hand) and the cold has not been helping. I had to drag start it at the last event. Also I burned a few quarts of oil. I am hoping to do MIRA but we will see how funds go. Worst case I will do a one or two SVR SCCA Ice runs.
I've driven the FC on the ice several times, its a blast. The stock LSD diff becomes an open diff too quick though.
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The ice runs last year were a lot of fun, and you looked like you were having a blast in the 7. What type of diff do you have? Is it the S5 viscous, or the S4 clutched? I swapped a torsen into the rear end of the 'vert, and like the way it feels, but those are supposed to be terrible in very-low grip situations since the gears require a bit of resistance to begin to work. Pulling the e-brake a couple clicks would help with the lock-up behavior when in low-grip is supposed to help, maybe it'll do the same in your case?
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Oh it was a blast, my co-driver couldn't quite get the hang of it but he started to towards the end. I knew I was the only one my class so I was basically getting a participation trophy so I tired to drive as fast as I could as sideways as I could. I have the s4 NA LSD. And after about 1 mile of heavy right foot on the lake it becomes an open diff.
Its not so bad on the ice runs because it cools down intime for the next run for it to work again for the most part but it is pretty worn. I'm tempted to try a torsen for the lake to avoid that but on dirt I really prefer the clutch style.
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Got the starter overhauled and replaced the rear wheel bearings to get it ready for ice racing.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/02/14/IMG7598557889468.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/02/14/IMG7604832678138.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/02/14/IMG7676444111547.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/02/14/IMG7680346553799.jpg)
Even the tow vehicle got some action!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/02/14/IMG1040602906406.jpg)
Could not do a MIRA season so I opted for a 3 event weekend on 2 different locations and one of them was at night. :)
SAFETY SELFIE!
(http://[url=http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/29/20140222180559.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/29/20140222180559.jpg)
and a shot of Dr. Rotorsteins’ laboratory(photo is a bit dated there are more HID/LED lighting setup)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/29/20140201181957.jpg)
The weekend after the ice racing weekend there was rallycross and it was ROUGH. They cancelled the event after the 1st heat because it was so rough, so rough in fact that I snapped my midpipe on my exhaust and then the exhaust kept bouncing off of the hangers. I have been le tired of it anyways so I took a nap and pondered what to do next.
This was my first event EVER in having a cone free day the problem is that I could not catch the Miatas or the 911s
FIX EXHAUST? CHECK!
Stainless 1 piece exhaust from the header all the way back to the racing beat furai rotor shaped muffler, why? because I am rotarded. Also I am mostly R&Ring stuff by myself and the twin mufflers is a pain to deal with it. Also this car doesn't make much power so I must continue to add lightness!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/29/20140425172001.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/29/20140425172011.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/29/20140425172114.jpg)
Here is a video of it idling with the half bridge.
13b half bridge - YouTube (http://youtu.be/Mou_wt_jues)
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My headlights were of a grand idea but pour execution, and now that I work in automotive lighting, you kind of see things differently, I used to be in the dark about optics and such but now I see the light! And this E36 M3 is bright. Here are some teaser pics:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/29/20140304001314.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/29/20140304001329.jpg)
The front: A regular ass J30 headlight projector unit sub assembly.
The rear: HID retrofit lowbeam maybe even bi-function HID (HB/LB combined but I will just have std HBs on as HD fogs essentially. Legally you can run maximum 4 forward lights on at one time FYI.
What is neat is that you can monitor your adjustment since there is a leveling bubble there. The issue I am having on this how to construct a bracket and where to mount the ballasts. Not sure if I will put the pop up lights back in or not yet either in conjunction with this. TBD - this will be a long project and slow just chip away at the rock.
What to look forward to this season????
New engine is in the works, about half way through porting it. Haven't decided on doing a half bridge yet or just streetport however it will be a frankenwankel consisting of S4/S5 NA/TII parts as well some rx8 and FD components.
DRIVETRAIN:
rx8 6 speed swap, I got a KILLER of a deal on one BNIB. pics to come in future.
It also came with new throwout bearing, clutch fork and fork grommet. Just lacked a shifter which was sourced for 30 dollars. A new wooden shift knob will need to be made since the threads are different but more on that swap later.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/04/30/20140429185125.jpg)
So in preparations, last time the engine was out I placed the two next to each other to get an idea on mounts, maybe hybrid the PPF and stock FC trans mount or have something made from scratch. Not sure exactly yet.
When I recently pulled my engine out for some D&D on the new engine I put the t2 trans next to the rx8 trans to get an idea roughly what I am working with:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/05/09/20140412144455.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/05/09/20140412144508.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/05/09/20140412144513.jpg)
Shifter will be farther forward and I have no qualms about making the hole in the floor more egg shaped.
Engine is currently still being ported (maybe 50% done or so) so this engine will have to last likely for the remainder of the season or however long it holds up, I'm kind of curious to see how much more abuse it will take before it ultimately stops working. 2 races scheduled for memorial day weekend. What I can promise though is that this trans will only go in when the engine is ready.
The other issue with an rx8 trans to solve is the driveshaft. Luckily though the rx8 uses the same spline count/diameter as the TII and I have the following extra parts on horde:
+ T2 output trans yoke
+ rx8 output trans yoke
+ N/A driveshaft complete
I still plan on using my NA rear end so I figure I have my bases covered. Right now the vehicle is equipped with a T2 to NA rear end driveshaft from mazdatrix that has serviceable u-joints. I have heard that auto trans FC driveshaft may be a direct fit as well. we shall see. but it looks like there may need to be some adjustment is shaft length (lol) to make this bolt in.
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Looking good. keep up the good work.
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some updates, I have been busy with house purchasing stuff. I mean buying a garage with a detached house, but more on that later. I did make some progress on my lights though.
Here is kind of a mockup of what it could be vs what it is right now.
(http://i.imgur.com/fTmmt3n.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wGeRuLQ.jpg)
The idea is to cut out part of bumper and enclose an area for new HB/LB and fill in the hood with fiberglass where the headlight covers would be. I'm still working on some mounting ideas, tested a bracket or two that failed so back to the drawing board. Also long term idea is to replace front bumper and fenders, clean up the hood and re spray the front end essentially. I have all the parts (minus driver side fender but it could be salvaged) so that will happen at the new shop :)
So let me walk you through lighting terminolgy and etc. One of the perks of being in the lighting business, ALL THE BALLASTS! ALL THE DS3s!
(http://i.imgur.com/VIeDRot.jpg)
Don't worry I have plenty more in the basement as well.
(http://i.imgur.com/J6wU1Iv.jpg)
The top assembly is a projector unit or commonly refered to in the biz as a PES, which stands for piezelispode surface or something. Regardless it is made up of a few key parts:
+PES (projector) Lens
+lens holder
+Shade
+reflector
+bulb
Now this shade is unique because it is for a bi-function HID XENON unit. The shade gives you your legal road requirements for light cutoff and utilizing that with the lens gives you that crisp sharp appearance. Now with a bi-function unit it has a solenoid on it that moves a door on a lever to change from your high beam to low beam function, pretty neat stuff. This particular unit is out of a mustang but I'm sure its used in most ford products.
now the fun parts: I wanted to retrofit this low beam halogen into a bi function HID unit so I unbolted the ADC (aluminum die cast) reflector and looked inside. What you see if the low beam shade, instead of being a stamped piece of metal it is actually cast into the unit itself.
(http://i.imgur.com/nuMMUXP.jpg)
So that shit has got to go!
(http://i.imgur.com/Cxzxj8c.jpg)
cutoff wheel fits Juuuuuuuust right.
(http://i.imgur.com/45jvsi8.jpg)
Now that the stock shade is gone, time to graft the bi-function stamped shade to the bad boy.
(http://i.imgur.com/yWoYmg7.jpg)
Luckily the reflector bolts to the shade only one way and the mounting features overlap so I can keep the legal cut off line and have good light pattern isntead of massive glare and blinding all of the drivers on the road. I just had to cut one of the ears off for it to fit, drill and tap 3 holes and BAM. shade accomplished. Now I just need to bolt the shade to the reflector.
(http://i.imgur.com/zMKgpyJ.jpg)
add wiring pigtail for the bi-function solenoid.
(http://i.imgur.com/EDvx6M3.jpg)
and viola! you are done with your sub assembly, here are some shots next to the other handed unit to show the difference.
(http://i.imgur.com/FPC2WVi.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ik3LiEl.jpg)
Now you can see in the last pictures there are 2 square holes, these will be used for the aiming adjustment screws, some misc hardware from work pop right in then all I need to do is re-insert the correct length adjustment screw.
(http://i.imgur.com/rlvHp3o.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/TTrPbZU.jpg)
the black object in the middle top is a plastic bushing that holds a stud on a ball pivot, these 3 items together give me my fulcrum for adjustment.
Next step is mounting and enclosing, stay tunned.
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On the RX8 Trans, what do you do about the shifter location? Cut firewall and move engine back :).
Also, I am digging the lights.
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I thought about that but I like being able to reach all of the bell housing bolts, makes engine swaps take about 2 hours less. I'm just gonna cut an extra section in the floor and bolt a plate to cover what is exposed just so I can swap back to an FC setup with relative ease should I need parts on the cheap/now.
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BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD!!! It is time to re re re re-design/fungineer my headlamps. I didn't like the way they were going before with a custom bracket and having to custom make an enclosure, it felt like I was trying to re-invent the wheel. Hard part with a custom mountain bracket is vibration and having the light beam bounce around which is bad and likely illegal. Also making a waterproof enclosure was tough from scratch, probably easier to modify something. So I decided to go to the junkyard and grab more J30 headlamps, this time... intact ones...
Here is a picture of the modified guts (on the prototype bracket) next to a stock one without a lens next to an intact stock one. The colors may seem funky because I see a lot of reflections in my tie die shirt lol.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/699x524q90/674/cihus7.jpg)
Reasons?
1. Multiple Easy mounting locations
2. Its already a lamp!
3. Existing aiming/fixing functions
4. Datums exist there for this design to hold everything in place properly under vibration.
So here are the guts back in their housing using existing hardware.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/699x524q90/908/VIyPb7.jpg)
...and the back side (next to do is fiberglass enclosure of some kind where I can toss a cap on the back to reach the HID bulb)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/699x524q90/538/ozdSAq.jpg)
Nevermind the gorilla glue, I broke a mounting tab, its messy but it fixes the issue lol.
I did not want the flashy chrome bezel, but the bezel is required because it also works as a curtain to block light leaking from surrounding areas, so I thought it would be cool to paint it black!
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/240x179q90/c/538/YAub0M.jpg)
However I did mask the inside of the chrome ring because the hardware that mounts over the projector lenses is chrome too.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/699x524q90/674/4NpjYF.jpg)
But you can't really tell...
Here is the bench test making sure the circuit works, (and it does) this was an old CPU and I don't think it is very strong because my goal is to turn the high beam bulb on with the same circuit as the solenoid for the bi-function HB actuation (shade actuator) but every time I go to ground that circuit my lights go out, unless I already have the non HID bulb on, might need a relay in there but that is still a work in progress on how to neatly and properly wire it up. The good news is that all functions function functionally.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/699x524q90/746/VBPfWq.jpg)
Here is a shot of it with the lens "on" and unit assembled.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/699x524q90/908/eEkmpY.jpg)
I would rather be porting/assembling my rotary but I lack a compressor at this time and this needs to be done. This simple project has become into a regular project lol.
Next up:
1. Seal the back side
2. Mount to the vehicle
3. Integrate into vehicle wiring
4. Adjust aiming
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I have a pancake compressor that could work if you want to borrow it.
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Those are way too tiny to operate a die grinder for a constant few hours.
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It handles two nail guns very well, its a thought. I do have a larger air compressor if needed for short period of time. I can make do with my pancake compressor for a couple of days. Our you can come over and use it too at my place.
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I was using my old roommates 30 gal and it could not keep up, the die grinder is like a metered air leak.
How big is this larger one? sub question, if its large enough do you need any port work done? :)
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Just thought I would mention that the size of the tank doesnt have much to do with keeping up with your air tools. But with that said, larger tanks generally have larger pumps.
I have a portable 30 gallon you could borrow if need be. I ported SBC heads with it. Or if you really wanted to you are welcome to come use my not so portable Quincy compressor. You can run anything non stop with it.
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There is 2 things I really need/want for the house.
1. Furniture
2. Air compressor
what CFM @90 is the 30 Will?
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So at GLDRX I exploded my exhaust gasket from the high heat (very early on) and I am not allowed to run DET rallyX events until I quiet it down. So I added a resonator, also while doing so I had got redone the majority of the exhaust!
step 1. start over (kind of a common theme recently)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/754x565q90/746/9nPluq.jpg)
step 2. Add runner length. (approx 3 feet added)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/754x565q90/631/gPLfJN.jpg)
step 3. Add resonator
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/754x565q90/537/Sjq3iB.jpg)
step 4. add tape?
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/718x539q90/905/6nlNNZ.jpg)
step 5. stop and compare (while still tacked)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/754x565q90/538/4uWcY3.jpg)
step 6. re-install, inspect for leaks (NONE!)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/718x539q90/910/M8oTa8.jpg)
Oh and I also snagged this and plumbed the garage the other weekend :)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/424x565q90/905/PsRjkD.jpg)
3 cyl, 60 gal, 2 stage, 18cfm @ 90psi, belt drive.
Now there is an autoX on Sunday that I will be taking this too to verify if the sound got better or worse or if I can break the engine, if I can't then I have a potential 2 day rallycross on the other side of the state next weekend with a non SCCA affiliated group.
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It is quieter with the addition of the spiral flow however, inside the car you can't tell. With the runners longer you hear each rotor pulse more distinct, which is neat. The moroso spiral flow was a nice touch. I still think I will want to wear ear plugs when breaking in the new engine. The muffler alone is just too loud. Also when I extended the runners I used 14 gauge steel, I figured the thicker the better for sound retention.
oh did I mention I made some progress?
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/424x565q90/673/eaeOSf.jpg)
I made some progress, need to finish the rear iron and 100% of the housings still.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/754x565q90/674/alRpv1.jpg)
The autoX was merely to test the exhaust, and I also discovered my new seating position is painful on the knee for a half hour drive so I absolutely need a new steering wheel to bring closer to me to free up knee room. I drove with blown front shocks, and no sway bars on bald tires. Highlarity ensued:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oIsZyDTABqM/VDM4QCjEEMI/AAAAAAAAdA8/mSvVOmRJsu4/w1117-h745-no/DSC07385_DxO.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y4k4K2dlntw/VDM4RATAfnI/AAAAAAAAdBI/1J9HGM5u_TU/w1055-h704-no/DSC07388_DxO.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pBgfXO-p0Hg/VDM4kN0Lm9I/AAAAAAAAdF8/YgUD356idTk/w1055-h704-no/DSC07504_DxO.jpg)
at the finish was a 90 left turn and my car would tripod the inner rear wheel. I would mat the gas, the RPM goes up but no forward motion and for a few seconds and no smell of clutch.
spun twice the 1st run, then the 2nd run I spun about 5 feet from where I spun the 2nd time. Naturally I just pinned the gas down and let her rip. the course was small so I just wound out 1st to 9k or so, again. Observe:
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/754x565q90/538/g1zOek.jpg)
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What are the new engine plans? Seems the 4 port is the way to go if staying NA. The progress looks very nice, as well as the exhaust, i love hearing the distinct exhaust pulses!
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Current build spec sheet:
S4 T2 irons (pineapple streetport)
S4 NA housings (pineapple streetport)
plug fresh air ports in housings
polish T2 inserts for housings
rx8 e-shaft
rx8 stat gears
AL flywheel
Atkins 4 port single piece DCOE manifold
FD corner seal springs
FD side seals
FD side seal springs
mazda motorsports competition oil control ring springs
FD oil pressure regulator
T2 oil pump
Atkins solid corner seals
RA classic apex seals/springs
S5 NA rotors
omp delete
RB front main pulley
NEW oil pan
mazda motorsports competition pan baffle
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Air ports in housings, semi peripheral port right? Oh man sounds like a pretty hefty NA build, can't wait to see more on this.
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naw no semi PP, far simpler:
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1992/Engine-Services/11305.html (http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1992/Engine-Services/11305.html)
"Racing Beat's Exhaust Air Injection Passage Plugging modification process for 1976 and later rotor housings blocks the fresh air passage which runs from the exhaust outlet flange surface to the bottom of the exhaust port. Two versions of this modification are offered: One for stock or streetable exhaust ported rotor housings and another for race exhaust ported housings. In the first case, not only is an aluminum plug pressed into the passage, but a small disc of metal is welded into the hole at the bottom of the steel sleeve in the exhaust port to smooth the exhaust gas flow. In the second case, since the sleeve was previously removed, only the aluminum plug is installed, but it is driven in deep enough to allow it to be cut off flush in the port.
This modification is not very important for 1976 to 1980 rotor housings if you use our header since this header covers the passage at the engine-to-header interface. However, if this modification is not done to 1981 and later housings, and if a stock intake manifold is used on the engine, the hot exhaust can back-flow up the intake manifold and heat it, creating an undesirable situation.
"
(http://www.racingbeat.com/images/items/350x280/11305.jpg)
I was getting random things done and my welder friend can do aluminum so I had him go in there and fill these up.
I would like to clearance the rotors and balance the rotating assembly but that costs too much and I've taken this current engine far past 8500 and its lasted up through some abuse and if this becomes a stage car it will get a reney powerplant.
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I have always wondered about this! I had no idea this service existed though, or I would have done it as well. So now PP, aw man! Haha, I'd really like to make a PP engine one day. I'd need my own shop though with the right tools if I want to do that. Either way this is going to be a sweet build! What's your power goal?
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160-180whp is my power goal. I dyno'd this engine a few years back and made 132whp but this carb is choking this engine, I plan to use this carb to break in this engine then upgrade. It is way to small, better suited for a stock 12a. I have won races on this engine and manage to stay competitive, I just need a little more power to compete on the faster track layouts.
PP is not ideal since im often out of my peak RPM and mid range power is ideal, so a streetport works best. If I find a long straight section n such I just wind the gear out up to 10k rpm to get the speed I need. No point in shifting I would just be downshifting immediately anyways and loose more time.
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So I got some more work done recently, honestly this part should be the start of a new thread because the car is basically going to be totally different and the rotary engine build deserves its own thread .
in summary:
All irons? = ported (not polishing)
All housings? = ported/polished
Final parts required for assembly ETA? = today
Tap ALL the threads! (no seriously) especially the tension bolts, its a bitch and a half with the cast iron being so hard but it ensures even torque. Also its a good practice to get into and makes for an easier installation. When it comes to assembling these guys the minor attention to detail goes a long way (in my opinion) I hate doing it but its worth while.
(http://i.imgur.com/I6eJH2a.jpg)
Here is some comparison between a rough cut and just a scribed port:
(http://i.imgur.com/22QR5Br.jpg)
Here are some after shots:
(http://i.imgur.com/KghQN2D.jpg)
w/ the inserts removed:
(http://i.imgur.com/d4EGA27.jpg)
all cleaned up with the polished inserts in (but not installed)
(http://i.imgur.com/EAnYBzF.jpg)
Here is my schedule to complete to make it before rallycross event on the 15th
(http://i.imgur.com/k5apHTe.jpg)
It is a bit ambitious I know...
However I think if I rush to get it all done in time I will either run out of money to be able to compete or I have to only do the engine build/break in and thats it. However I still need to do these things <strong>MAJOR</strong> things before the car is back on the level:
1. Rear brake pads + passenger rear caliper
2. Assemble front bilstein shocks assemblies (RB springs + new bearings + bilstein B6 HD inserts + gutted shock tubes)
3. 6 speed swap:
A. Verify driveshaft compatibility (might need to be lengthened or shortened or nothing at all!)
B. Fabricate transmission mount,
C. Create room for shifter in chassis
D. Send shift knob out to be converted to wood shift knob (ball so hard) again
4. Headlights (the lamps themselves are now complete) <strong>BUT</strong> they still need to be:
A. Wired up to the chassis
B. Fabricate headlight mount brackets
C. Fabricate splash shield for added water protection
5. Bodywork,
A. Source or repair driver side fender
B. replace passenger side fender (acquired)
C. Replace and modify front bumper (to accommodate new lights, cut out grille, and the rallyboob aux mounting)
D. Fill in hood where headlight cover opening is
E. Paint both fenders, hood and front bumper
F. Clean and paint engine bay.
6. Break in new engine, approx 500 miles of stop and go driving slowly bringing it to redline and slowly increasing load. And with daylight savings time approaching I need headlights to be able to drive the vehicle around to break it in at night and dusk hours. Also I may need to get a new steering wheel because the new seating position is HELL on my knee during transit, the best seating position in my car is WOT (and thats how you should be driving it)
so my ideal goal is to have it all done by Dec 13th for the season ender to be a good shakedown to get ready for 2015 season.
Things left on the engine (before assembly)?
1. Port match intake manifold and gasket
2. Add brake booster port to intake manifold
3. Finish taping all the threads on the irons
4. Clean the berkeley out of everything
5. pull the old engine and salvage tension bolts/apex seals. Or verify if I need new apex seals or not
Ambitious? Now I after writing all what I need to get done I don't know if I can lol....
:(
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Oooooh what came in the mail (along with misc seals/springs)....
(http://i.imgur.com/P98IIJo.jpg)
BNIB Rx8 e-shaft (includes pilot bearing/bushing and oil jets) from mazda for only 138 and its .6 lbs lighter and minor taper to the journal for better oiling, otherwise direct bolt in.
Right now I'm TBD on the build date because I found a snag...
There is a small area of pitting on one face of the center iron, I fear it might catch the corner piece of the apex seal. Also there appears to be some scratches that I can catch with my fingernail. Not sure if it was damaged in the move or from porting maybe it rested on a burr and dug in...
I might have to send out the iron to get lapped. Then its do I do 1 side or both sides of the center iron...
Expect daily updates on this build to see if I am progressing as planned. Last night finished tapping ALL the threads and gave an inspection/touch up on the porting.
Here are some block shots:
(http://i.imgur.com/CvfjT5Q.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/mpENRxX.jpg)
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WEEKEND UPDATE WITH COLIN QUINN!
wait actually no. But some shit did go down...
I think I'm going to replace or resurface my center iron, I found some scratches and a small pitted area that I do not want to risk on this engine. But I did get to work on gasket matching the other ports.
(http://i.imgur.com/XqxZBcC.jpg)
One was nearly spot on, the other took a tad of beveling to correct.
Also, note the size difference in ports between the block and the manifold.
(http://i.imgur.com/UcREoEz.jpg)
I really dislike atkins rotary products, this is one of them. This manifold would be great on a REW block, but if I could afford that I would have had a better manifold made. Not to mention the fact that they shipped it horribly and got scratches on the gasket mating surface, the part itself was quite dirty and required cleaning to get rid of all of the chips inside of the manifold and the flange area for the carb is not exactly round and the threads for the studs on one went into manifold which would cause a great gas leak. NOT happy with the quality and the price was so-so. Will not be purchasing anything from them again. I have had some minor issues in the past from them and now this is the final nail in the coffin. Do not buy from atkins, /end rant.
ANYWHORE! I got more engine parts cleaned and pulled the powerplant from the car and began my disassembly and inspection.
(http://i.imgur.com/VJSPkrW.jpg)
So this engine has had a rough 4.5 years and built on a college budget but how did it do? pretty damn well but this thing was tired. General heavy wear everywhere. I won't bore you all with the photos but step wear increased to drastic measures, I did find some other gouges on other irons but this is a good representation:
(http://i.imgur.com/zpvo6Fz.jpg)
Here is side by side before and after of the rotor housings, everyone said that the RA classics are hard on housings, well I was also hard on the engine but you can see how much less dull it is now.
(http://i.imgur.com/7WTfO0E.jpg)
I was expecting more flaking, honestly it really didnt grow or change much (from what I remember)
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Now the reason I tore down the engine was to re-use the apex seals. overall length/width measured out okay. However the corner pieces did not fair so well (I cannot find the 6th one) and the apex seal springs grooved the seals pretty well. Well lets just look at the photos....
(http://i.imgur.com/lxyuYP0.jpg)
The witness marks are pretty evident.
(http://i.imgur.com/3HuiHzp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/0yKlu9m.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/XoR4WP9.jpg)
One of the apex seals looked like it was 'loosing its skin' I've never seen that before.
(http://i.imgur.com/PjXye58.jpg)
The corner pieces of the apex seals became peanut shaped.
(http://i.imgur.com/Fautmz5.jpg)
Still cannot find the 6th one...
Mazda gives you additional specs for measurement, but they don't actually tell you what the dimensions should be....
(http://i.imgur.com/ppfBiMc.jpg)
Needless to say is that I cannot re-use these. Whats your opinion on these rotards?
I found these issues with the engine upon dissasembly.
1. Oil pump shows scratches (explains "poor" oil pressure)
2. Rear rotor rear face x1 side seal spring broke which cause the seal to collapse into the seal slot
3. Still cant find the 6th apex seal corner piece
4. The hole in my rotor (pics to come, more on that later) DID NOT GROW! overall rotor condition is excellent, even the bearings look only slightly more worn than when I put them in.
5. One of the coolant o-ring seals was starting to leak, very small but notable
6. Funny apex seal wear
7. Rear stat gear bearing was showing LOTS of copper, front looked fine.
More pics/details soon to come.
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Very odd seal wear, how many miles were on the seals themselves? I always find it interesting looking at dissected engines and their seals. Did you compression test it before hand? I remember you were able to turn the crank with the water pump haha.
The port matching is looking good, looks like there was a lot of material to take off though. Anyways, nice work so far man, can't wait to see this new engine assembled!
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Not sure, they were used when I put them in and I did about 4.5 years of racing mixed with DD duty. when I built the engine it was about 105psi. I didn't comp test it before pulling it but several months prior I saw it dip to the high 80s.
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What do you have to do a lot in rotary building? Cleaning and measuring! and it sucks, trust me.
I am working on this build a master spec sheet so you can record EVERYTHING. Basic measuring tools required?
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/06/20141104_201409.jpg)
1. Dial indicator on magnetic base.
2. feeler gauges as small as .0011"
3. Micrometer 0-1", 1-2" and 2-3"
4. T gages 1.5"-2" (ish) and 2.5"-3.5" (ish)
5. digital or analog calipers
Like I complained about atkins before ALL of the corner seals were .00105" undersized (diameter spec) but I chalk that up to my equipment precision or squeezing the mic too hard. Needless to say I am going to run them.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/06/20141104_191107.jpg)
A seal case is handy in these instances too, mazda wants to charge you a billion dollars but go to any walmart or Meijer or lowes and etc and you can snag one of these for about 7 bucks.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/06/20141104_192121.jpg)
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PROGRESS!
So according to my schedule I need to be breaking in my engine this week. Well that's not happening. 2 Major setbacks:
1. I need apex seals and lack the funds for them (until later this month) Plan to order Friday and have them by the 21st.
2. I was gifted a t2 oil pump, I had not actually inspected it until recently, its bad. so a new one is in the mail ETA Monday the 17th :(
Well I got too drunk this weekend (two 30th birthdays for friends) to be able to accomplish relatively anything important on the car so I did what any sane GRM'er would do and use up one of my sick days and wrench!
It was a glorious Monday (weather wise) to do bodywork! Since I can't assemble my engine I need to get onwards with the various other tasks I need to accomplish.
Step 1. Remove wiring harness and then POWER WASHER!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/11/20141110_135703.jpg)
Well it kind of sucks but you can see the different between the left and ride hand side with 5 minutes of scrubbing with degreaser and that sweet brush.
Step 2. Remove shitty fenders and front bumper to mount headlights!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/11/20141110_165328.jpg)
Kinda looks like a sil-80 all naked :) After all the same company that made the sil-80/silvia lamps made these J30 ones too.
all lit up (low beam only)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/11/20141110_181848.jpg)
With the EU spec prescription on passenger side (EU Driver side) and SAE spec prescription driver side, with general aiming it came out pretty good considering all the science and math that I skipped to do this;
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/11/20141110_181828.jpg)
I just wired them up to an old PSU from a PC, you jump 2 pins and BAM instant DC power supply, I recommend anyone to have these in their garage as handy shop equipment for testing electronics. Safer than a battery with jumper cables (for you and your electronics). I still have to integrate these into my existing body wire harness (which may get some revamping due to this) but mounting the ballasts actually is really easy, I have great areas to work with for easy R&R.
Since then I have removed the headlights and cleaned it once more. right now its time for masking and primer for the engine bay. Then paint.
Hood modification and fender/bumper primer/paint should be done this week or at least by end of next week when final parts arrive. All misc other engine parts have been cleaned and put into dry temp control storage (IE, the guest bed room in my house that is vacant, pics to come later)
More updates when progress progresses further more soon.
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Looking good man, always enjoy reading your build, sucks about the setbacks, but rather do it right later than have to fix something. What are the benefits to a T2 oil pump over the na? Which apex seal vendor are you going with?
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More volume (larger pump) and pressure with the t2 oil pumps. I just got paid so I did my mortgage and apex seals. Gonna be taking it real cheap the next 2 weeks lol. I went with OEM ones. I hope to do assembly next week. I'll keep you posted.
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Well today was payday so that means order up apex seals, about 375 with tax/shipping from mazda... (and that's with mazda racer discount)and they should arrive mid next week. Oil pump arrives Monday. This weekend I will focus on body work. I am iffy on replacing/painting fenders right now since winter is about to hit and getting paint to stick will be a bitch. Also not sure how to attach the bottom part of the fender to the chassis since they are all smashed and rusted. Might just kind of repair them a tad and re-attach them for winter. And worry about the body work come march when its at least in the 50s again (maybe) I will most certainty replace the front bumper I have since it is required with the new headlights. Maybe it wont look so ratty but just ratty enough for winter abuse/break in driving and ice racing...
This weekends' agenda:
1. Clearance side seals. organize seals.
2. Fiberglass/sand/primer hood.
3. Spray bomb engine bay.
4. Integrate/modify wiring for new lights.
5. Modify front bumper.
6. Create splash guard to protect bottom side of headlights from moisture.
Since this thread has kind of turned into an impromptu informative group, here is some more knowledge. This post will focus on the water pump housing. N326/N327 Is S4 rx7 and N350 is S5 rx7. You must use the pump to the corresponding pump housing. S5 has an additional water pump bolt. Both WP housings are interchangeable on the irons (even on the renesis). If you use the S4 water pump housing you have better pulley clearances so I usually stick with this one, also the thermostat housing is aluminum and is more robust. Now onto the good stuff.
Issue #1
Stock sending unit is located in the rear iron, and its garbage. Its some weird thread and there isn't enough room to drill it out and retap for 1/8 NPT for most gauges.
Issue #2
mechanical fan is for the birds, and toggle switching it is also for the birds (I'm guilty of this for a while)
Ways to correct this, modify the water pump housing. Depending on your application you may or not need the factory CLT. its about 1/4" thread. I decided to drill it out and tap it for 3/8ths" NPT for the fan thermostat switch. This switch is a 1 wire unit that will be the ground to my relay that will turn on the electric fan. (I love ground side switching) Location shown here:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/14/20141113_232528.jpg)
The other one next to it is an S5 for reference, the flat spot on turbo models I believe is drilled and tapped for the turbo coolant line. Either way that is also a good location for sending units.
This is the back side of the WP housing, you can remove this tube but my carb has the option of being water cooled so I may utilize this outlet and run it to the carb then the outlet of the carb runs to the rear iron which has the same nipple, I think this area is used for cold start or goofy ass stock throttle body. This location works great for 1/8th NPT or oversize it to 1/4" use the adapter. I don't run an airpump so I am going to use the front boss area where the airpump bracket would cover. Use a drill press and make the area a bit more open/flat then go in and drill and tap for water temp gauge sending unit. (mine broke upon removal from old housing, also this is much cleaner than prior condition) and boom you're done!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/14/20141113_232518.jpg)
here is a handy chart for what pipe thread v drill size required from my local hardware store:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/14/pipes.jpg)
ETA rebuild? Nov 21st
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Well according to my schedule, I bad at schedules. Had some hicups with parts but that should be straightened out by this weekend. Now that engine work was not progressing it let me focus on body work since for me to break the engine in, I need to commute in it and since daylight savings time I need headlights. Its allllll coming together now.
1st order of business on the body work. engine bay!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141115_102830.jpg)
here is also kind of where I shoot myself in the foot, I am not a body mechanic I don't know paint but I do spray bomb really well. This is no exception. Some areas reacted because I used lacquer acrylic paint from duplicolor, some oil based enamels might be hidden underhood and various other stuff so some areas look funky but its all gonna get dirty soon anyways.
Photo took several cans of this stuff:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141117_210604.jpg)
Time to go down the lacquer rabbit hole...
Lucky for me a dollar store nearby was selling this stuff on the cheap. $1.89 per can to be exact, which was good because it didnt cover worth a dick and took tons of coats and I bought out the entire supply, probably spent about 25-30 dollars on spray paint.
So I didn't have any sawhorses or stands so I grabbed stools from the old restaurant I used to work at, they just ordered some new ones in and gave me the old "beat up" ones for free.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141115_143417.jpg)
and they work great (covered with painters tarp) I sure as shit wasn't going to make any or buy any, thats for sure.
I repaired the driver side fender and I had a minty fresh passenger side to prep. MY car was ORIGINALLY blue, these fenders were both originally red and the passenger side had certainty been repainted before.
after a few coats:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141115_134649.jpg)
I utilized my compressor by spending about 15 bucks on a harbor freight sander and I had a bunch of 120 grit laying around still from the original burban repaint/bedliner project. so that worked out.
Here they are all primed up:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141116_184346.jpg)
I have an rx7 for a roommate and she's kind of a douchebag, she doesn't pay me rent! In fact... she takes up my space and charges me money, what a country!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141116_184338.jpg)
Some parts await final cleaning still before they can enter the dry/heated storage/pre assembly room/future roommate room???
ANYWHORE! back to the bodywork. Obviously the new lights required some body changes. fenders took minor trimming (unseen) the gaps for the pop up lights on the hood need to be filled and the front bumper needs to be seriously modified. Luckily I have a spare white bumper (which got cleaned, sanded and primed) and after ruining the prior bumper I had pretty good idea of measurements for hood pins and where to put what. and spare parts. Bitches love spare parts.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141116_203737.jpg)
Obviously this is not going to work, front bumper wont mount like this and it looks jank.
Here is a close up:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141116_203743.jpg)
a sharpie works well on what I need to trim and where, pretty close though... Normally the FTP (flash to pass) lenses or clear dummy lenses go here. Those were missing from this bumper, like most are 2nd hand these days...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141116_210152.jpg)
Passenger side is trimmed (about 90%) and driver side is stock. Also, I made sure the rallyboobs would fit with the new holes I drilled, everything looks kosher.
Here is the teaser shot, headlight covers need trimming and the hood is only filled/sanded still needs to be primed and only the low beam/low beam function is being utilized. I mocked up the wiring diagram at work today to make this work, gonna need a fuse box from a junkyard or make my own power/relay distribution box with room for 5-7 std bosch/tyco relays. Anyone have suggestions???????
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141118_234852.jpg)
in this photo the fenders and bumper are primed FYI.
Oh herro, look what came in the mail today...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/19/20141118_190847.jpg)
overnight parts from Japan? I don't think so jesse, week long journey from Ontario... California! Thank you mazda also they were really expensive. $55.55 each :/
This week-weekends plans? finish the hood and get a HF spray gun and hope I dont fuck the paint up, never used one before. wish me luck...
I dont want to spend 60 dollars on spray paint cans and run around everywhere and with this whole enamel/acrylic/lacquer/oil/water based Im giving in and buying a quart of duplicolor's lineup of championship white, it seems to be everywhere and most whites tend to match my paint pretty well. Oh also the meijer by me is having a clearance on nearly everything automotive body related so I snagged 6 giant cans of duplicolor lacquer acrylic clear for $1.37 each :)
then finish engine pre cleaning and pre assembly. Stay tuned... or don't - I really don't care. its nice to have a build blog that follows how this car has progressed for my own interests :)
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Looks like you're off to a good start! How are you going to integrate those panels to replace the pop-up covers into the hood? Is it just the angle of the picture, or is the middle of the front bumper in the way of the inboard projector?
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Got the headlight covers trimmed up at work (I love having access to even a small machine shop) then got them attached (rivets) to the fiberglass, seems sturdy... enough. I thought about bondo the seam area and smooth it out but I think with the flexyness of the hood that would just crumble quickly and look like poop dick. In that photo it looks like it is but actually the beam path was unobstructed, I have since trimmed it a bit more so it is more aesthetically pleasing. However I haven't totally aimed them so I wanted to be sure. Also since the inboard projectors are the highbeam and now the low beam has a high beam function if a little light gets blocked you probably wont notice it.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/20/20141119_231316.jpg)
Yup, totally have an rx7 for a roommate...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/20/20141119_232426.jpg)
Today I am going to get some cleaning done (house and car parts) then tomorrow is paint day!
I ran out of the duplicolor primer so I found some rustoleum which didn't have ketones in it but I think thats a propellant, it didn't say enamel so I assume its a lacquer? No idea. Lets see how it goes...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/20/20141120_075918.jpg)
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I was getting in over my head on this painting thing, but what I do know is spray paint so I decided to go that route. I got tired of stressing and learning autobody, aint nobody got time for that...
I turned my garage into a paint booth essentially:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/25/20141120_213637.jpg)
After I primed everything it was time for color, went with rustoleum matte semi gloss enamel and their clearcoat.
Engine bay, both front fenders, front bumper and hood. This half of the car is a little brighter but I need to clean up the otherside to see how well it actually matches.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/25/20141122_121727.jpg)
Thats not the only body work I made, ended up making and mounting my splash guards for the headlights to keep my electronics area clean (as possible)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/25/20141123_160329.jpg)
Again, I have a rx7 for a roommate....
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/25/20141124_175032.jpg)
but everything is good to go! all sorts of cleaned, may get the intake manifold powdercoated so go with the franken wankel theme.
1. Front cover = ford blue
2. Water pump housing/filler neck = gold
3. Water pump = dark blue
4. Water pump pulley = artic cat green
5. Oil pan & crank pulley = black
6. Alternator pulley = anodized blue
7. intake manifold? maybe red or something...
But before that I had to do some gasket matching because this manifold is dumb but whatever...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/25/20141122_141100.jpg)
Now whats left is rotor pre assembly and put the engine bay wiring back together. New lights means modify harness, here is a sketch of what I got to do:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/11/25/20141124_160634.jpg)
I'm debating on junkyarding a fuse box or using one of these bad boys. Essentially I need a relay box up front for the electronics.
(http://www.delcity.net/images/photos/15303224_primary.jpg)
anyways I got 5 total relays for the front harness:
1. rally boobs fogs - about 18 amps total
2. rally boobs spots - about 18 amps total
3. Headlamp Low beam - 6 amps total
4. Headlamp High Beam - 11 amps total
5. Electric fan - 10-20 amps?
but it may be too much for the unit or just at the maximum...
Thoughts?
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Your amperage for the electric fan seems on the low side. I would think that a 30-40 amperage for the electric fan would be more appropriate.
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Here is a better view of the splash guards. woopity do fucking da.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141125_183211.jpg)
Also here is a shot of MOST (not all) of the cans used to do this major operation, even with the mask I think I've lost some brain cells I can't get back. Didn't help that I was drinking a lot while doing this process.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141125_183135.jpg)
So its about that time, rotor pre assembly!!!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141125_205924.jpg)
Cardboard comes in real handy here. draw out your rotors and sketch the markings to keep track of seal location and gaps and help record seal tolerance's.
oh but whats this...?
FSM states side seal clearance is .002-.007" and the FSM states a .016" limit. Well all of my side seals measure above but under limit. (.010-.016" or so) Once again delayed and forced to pay mazda a bunch of money for more parts since I'm this far down the rabbit hole, whats another 3-400 bucks? :( The larger the gap the higher the blow by and less compression.
Which brings me to my next conclusion. FUCK ATKINS ROTARY. I am officially tired of their crap products. I have complained about them enough but now I am 100% done with their products and will not support them or use anything from them ever again. I used these corner seals in the last build since I clearanced new side seals. (see hill climber thread) They seemed fine because I was using their apex seals (albeit still a bit tight but within use) but these DO NOT fit NEW OEM mazda apex seals, they go on crooked and the only way they fit is if you jam them in it there, the apex seals are supposed to be able to move freely without binding... which they do not. I was able to gain .004" clearance to my side seal vs using used OEM corner seals.
Observe the same side seal with 2 different corner seals, OEM vs atkins:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141125_214529.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141125_214716.jpg)
If you cant read the feeler gauges the OEM corner seals read .011" tolerance and the atkins reads .015"
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141125_225953.jpg)
Issues:
1. TERRIBLE apex seal to corner seal fitment
2. all the new corner seals actually measured undersized below spec
3. side seal clearance issues due this undersize.(I checked the diameter with 2 different mics and 2 different calipers so I know its not my measurement at this point since I got the same reading. )
4, about the same price as OEM corner seals
So I got anal and picked my best used 12 corner seals and recorded my measurements, these come from various engines and various running conditions and ALL measured out better and within spec.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141125_225551.jpg)
Because of this, there was no engine assembly this weekend. So I focused on updating my suspension. Might as well attack the to do list any time I got a chance.
BEFORE:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141125_200059.jpg)
"DURING":
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51cBVhZHgKL._SL1500_.jpg)
AFTER:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/01/20141126_193605.jpg)
Now my rear bilsteins are matched to properly to some front bilstiens, They do not make a bolt in bilstein shock for these cars, you have to gut the tube and put an insert in which is awesome that they at least have shocks for this but now you don't see the cool bilstein yellow:
Now it sits on racing beat front springs for more ideal spring rate and new moog strut mount/bearing since the old ones were original and most certainly toast. Time to mount up the headlights for good and begin re installing the engine bay while I wait for mazda to send me corner seals and side seals. I could re use my corner seals but I figured at this rate I'm this far down, might as well. Dec 13th rallyX date is looking pretty bad to be able to make now. Granted I didn't just buy seals from mazda, forgot a gasket and got cap/rotor/plugs because proper ignition is important too.
more to come.
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annnnnd boom done:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/04/20141201_213706.jpg)
There is a light at the end of the tunnel. Now we begin/continue the great re-construction of project beast mode.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/04/20141203_230423.jpg)
Mounted my ballasts and ran some wiring, removed some old wiring, time to simplify! Also I managed to integrated my front reflex reflectors with my turn signal just because. MOAR SAFETY! (maybe)
FINAL parts arrived today ( this time I mean it )
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/04/20141203_184400.jpg)
Kind of silly they individually package the corner seals but w/e
These are FD side seals, they are a minor upgrade over the FC ones, still must be clearanced to fit. Which sucks.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/04/20141203_221834.jpg)
but after some soothing music and some feeler gauges, it was done!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/04/20141203_221820.jpg)
Engine assembly? Tonite? Chances look good to have it assembled and installed by the weekend.
Right now someone local has my intake manifold for powdercoating. Next week I travel for work Tuesday morning through Friday afternoon so little will get done. I must champion this weekend!
Next hot items on the list is fabbing the transmission mount wiring up the...wires and obviously engine assembly.
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that was a failure aspect on my build is that i did not take the time or patience to cleance the side seals. that might be why i burn so much oil
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my last engine had higher limit for side seal clearance, it eventually would dilute the oil VERY fast with gasoline. tons of blowby and eventually burned oil. BUT one of the side seal springs broke so I had a stuck seal as well.
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Well it's great that you're taking the time to do it all correctly, and unfortunate that Atkins can't provide quality parts & service. I had thought they had a pretty good reputation prior to hearing about your experiences here
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Well it's great that you're taking the time to do it all correctly, and unfortunate that Atkins can't provide quality parts & service. I had thought they had a pretty good reputation prior to hearing about your experiences here
I still use their rebuild video. I usually watch theirs and rotary aviation. Slightly different but after a few builds then I see what I agree with and what I don't.
In the words of my co worker "That's why nobody does it right, because its expensive"
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ENGINE BUILD TIME!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/05/20141204_203948.jpg)
So the engine is finished! Big key thing to note is the s5 NA rotors on the rx8 eccentric shaft. They also utilize the rx8 stationary gears:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141205_201629.jpg)
These have 3 windows opposed to 1 for oiling. Way nicer for abuse. Much better oil flow.
However to run rear rx8 stat gear you have to either RTV the stat gear at the flange or machine an o-ring slot in. The rx8 rear iron has the o-ring slot whereas in the rx7 engines the o-ring slot is in the rear stat gear. I chose to get the rear stat gear machined to match rx7 condition. I hate RTV and make a mess of it. It was worth the piece of mind.
Be sure to check/set the endplay! .002" was measured. all good .0016-.0028" is spec.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141205_215224.jpg)
Now onto RTV! I mean a mess! I mean mazda competition oil pan baffle. I also utilized banzai racing’s oil pan stud kid which came with studs and flanged nuts. They also sell a brace but I felt that this was good enough. Plus the price difference is huge between the two.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141206_005145.jpg)
And as a treat to myself I got a BNIB oil pan. They usually rust and get nasty and have bent flanged areas which don’t seal well. This worked out good:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141206_101923.jpg)
And with that it was time to install the waterpump assembly, I am using an FD radiator cap housing. FC ones are plastic and I have broken or warped a couple. This is all aluminum and much sturdier. Also there is no overflow so I need to use my radiator overflow with the radiator cap on my radiator. No big deal.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141206_123443.jpg)
Since I had to buy side seals on that last post or so I also went with what I know I need which was a tune up. New OEM cap/rotor and OEM FDspark plugs (FD spark plugs are platinum, highly recommend)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141206_143408.jpg)
Next up? Onto the clutch and transmission!
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So the clutch is carry over, I utilize my same t2 aluminum flywheel and my t2 disc but the PP I got a hold of is from an rx8 and inn better shape than my old t2 pressure plate. These parts are interchangeable.
So it went in as ace venture says “LIKE A GLOVE!”
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141206_180558.jpg)
On the old 13b blocks cant use the rx8 trans with the rx8 stock slave cylinder since it hits the oil pedestal. HOWEVER you use the slave cylinder from a 98 acura integra 1.8 GS and viola! It bolts right in and clears.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141206_155034.jpg)
Price is 15 dollars at oreileys auto parts, part# cs2162
But to keep the angle of the slave cylinder pin flat, you have to shim it. Extra nuts to the strut bearing work great.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141206_155053.jpg)
ALSO the stock clutch hose has too many male threads on the slave cylinder end, but it reaches no problem.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141207_124558.jpg)
We are not home yet! Still some issues to tackle but the engine and trans are in and the engine is bolted down on its aluminum mounts:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141206_183858.jpg)
Here is the difference between the two transmissions. A hole must be cut. If you have an interior or stock dashboard this could be an issue, I do not so no worries:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141207_124609.jpg)
My mazdatrix T2 driveshaft to NA diff is just a hair too long, off to get shortened! I believe for most people a stock automatic driveshaft would work fine but I need a new yoke and u joints can use some attention. The automatic driveshaft has the same output yoke as the t2 as is common on the rx8. same diameter and spline count but the shaft is about 1" shorter.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141207_181557.jpg)
Stock transmount does not go low enough so I had to cut it up, then cut up the poly bushing from my t2 “solid” mounts.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141207_130907.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/11/20141207_151153.jpg)
Did a little work on mocking up the custom trans mount, stay tuned.
Big issues to overcome:
1. Correct clutch hose
2. fab trans mount
3. new shift boot/cover misc shifter hole
4. shorten and re balance driveshaft
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Also to use the rx8 trans you must use the rx8 hardware for the bellhousing. the bosses on the trans are larger than the FC ones so you will never thread anything in. the rx8 starter must be used since the rx7 starter only shares the top bolt. Rx8 start is a 2Kw electric motor while the rx7 one is 1.3Kw. Good upgrade.
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Great to see all this progress, looking good man! Very interesting build man, keep it coming!
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looking good.
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So I have been lacking in the updates recently. Well I traveled all last week for work so that sucked, didn't get any wrenching in.
A little bit of cardboard and a little bit of thin aluminum and some patience I managed to cut up the stock bracket and mock up something I can turn into a real bracket. So here is the tacked up beast. I used 3/16ths steel. Seems sturdy right? :p
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/22/20141217_194247.jpg)
Here is the final product:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/22/20141220_171036.jpg)
My welder friend is a bit of an artists so he put his signature on it (smoky the bear) and added some flare for me lol.
In other news, ITS ALLLLLLLLIIIIIIVVVVVEEEEEEEEE. Here is the traditional 1st start video, well 1st run. Was too busy to get the phone ready for cranking and etc.
http://youtu.be/t1gbv0im_6U (http://youtu.be/t1gbv0im_6U)
Took some trial and error stabbing the distributor on the RB main pulley but it eventually fired right up. I let it run for about a half hour, check for leaks, only a few (minor) leaks so I'm gonna chalk that up as a win.
1. The plug I made for the factory turbo oil feed location on the front iron does not seal very well. I may be able to get away with just adding copper crush washer. Factory hardware is banjo bolt anyways for this location...
2. 16psi rad cap on radiator, 13psi cap on t-stat neck. 13psi one does not have bleed off port. Thus leak. I will have to add an overflow port on the FD rad cap housing or go to a higher pressure cap. Griffin radiators lowest PSI for their caps is 16psi :/
3. Heater core outlet to radiator - (hence the t-shirt/rag in video) the outlet on the radiator is closer to 3/4 OD and the outlet on the heater core is more like 5/8ths OD. Right now I am having trouble finding a coupler for this issue.
Other than that I started to aim the headlights and bodywork might even go on later today. All that's left then will be clutch slave line, which I might have found the solution for and should arrive when I return from visiting family for Christmas.
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Its not quite a rally car yet but its getting there! It still requires some skid plates, cage and and proper fuel/brake lines run along with some other misc safety supplies.
Well everything is hooked up and leak countermeasures are in transit:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/23/20141222_184146.jpg)
bonus points if you can spot the continuity errors but bonus points equate to no monetary value.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/23/20141222_231015.jpg)
Since my radiator cap is 16 psi (and cant get any lower) I had to drill and tap the FD t-stat cap housing for a line for the overflow. I could just make a block off plate for the t-stat neck but I figure mazda put this there for a reason and less pressure on the coolant system can't hurt either. So I drilled and tapped it for 1/8th's NPT, a little thread sealant and some JB weld for safety.
Since I am stuck waiting on parts and I know I got it running, I decided to mount up and get my headlights aimed.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/23/20141222_184136.jpg)
So instead of being outside and pissing my neighbors off, by shinning lights into their house I set the wagon inside with the lights on and marked the position on the garage door as a surrogate and would compare the patterns. Sometimes I opened the door and see how good the beam looked in the distance. They are bright as fuck, without the HB on either...
Next up is to cover up this huge hole from the stock shifter, ran out of time but picked up some thin aluminum and some aluminum rivets, should do the trick nicely and should I need to put a stock trans in again I can easily remove it.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/23/20141222_214339.jpg)
Winter tires are on, exhaust has no leaks now to be gone for the holidays and patiently wait for parts to complete this. When I return it will be just fixing 3 minor leaks, cover shifter hole, trans fluid, body work install and I should be driving this by 1/1/2015!
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Back from the holidays! Got the leaks fixed, the barb fitting worked, turbo feed properly blocked,
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/31/20141229_19004891c8c.jpg)
I got some thin aluminum and made a block off plate, added a little RTV to act as a gasket and make less vibration and bolted it to two of the existing holes for the stock shifter bracket, made some additional ones then added 3 rivets for strength (not shown)
Clutch hydraulics came in!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/31/20141230_235921fd8b8.jpg)
Buy these 2 things and you can convert your inverted flare to -3
ta da!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/31/20141230_174842ae949.jpg)
a little closer
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/31/20141230_174850dda39.jpg)
so with all that wrapped up I just need to work on my shift boot so while waiting for that dang shifter plate to come in the mail... Then just bleed the clutch and take it for a spin!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/31/20141230_234144981e7.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/31/20141230_23421317c9b.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2014/12/31/20141230_234235128e1.jpg)
I installed the body work! I'm not really thrilled with the color, it doesn't match at all but I'm not a body work person. Might repaint the front better in the spring time for a weekend project but right now, it is what it is and it looks better than what it was.
Need to add the hood pins and trim the headlight cover on the passenger side. Passenger headlight may/will require some additional adjustment which means removal of the fender but driver side seems to be spot on.
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Here is the completed new body control module distribution mountain dew center
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20141231_1744542e8c5.jpg)
I also did a little "updating" on the interior, to hide the sharp edges up top and make for better cruising I added the tops of the door panels however they had to be trimmed to fit my dash. Also the trained eye will notice that I have switched to manual operated windows, I have had power mirrors for years but no switch and etc (and it was broken) now it doesn't flop around when I drive and I can see better when I change lanes. ta da
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150102_123331cdf01.jpg)
Well my oil cooler mounts were pretty mangled and I didn't feel like ordering them from mazda (45 + shipping est of 15 for both) so from the bracket material I left for the relay box I made my own.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150102_124002df77b.jpg)
A friend of mine who helped out on the trans mount lent me an arc welder, so I have been playing with that...
I solved my wood shift knob dilema...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150102_194913b1742.jpg)
just cut the old threads off and weld them onto the new shifter!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150102_16011629e4e.jpg)
learning to weld is fun! Also the metal on this car is so thin I kept burning holes. Anyways remember when I had a flawless road test? I re designed the front skid plate mounts to work much better. Yes I know the oil cooler is crooked but the mounts are sturdy and those lines are preventing me from installing it another way. I will be making my own AN lines for the oil cooler soon though, which then I will correct that issue.
Time to break in the engine so time to add the baller steering wheel back on (too cracked for race use however)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150102_1155151f989.jpg)
Yes that is a crown royal bag...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150102_1155239faf1.jpg)
Like. A. Sir...
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After I got all that sorted and buttoned up did a quick clean/organize of the garage. then a friend of mine stopped by to go for a ride
#ebonyandivory
(mostly stock t2)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/IMG_114906636833511cf51c.jpg)
Now its time to really break the engine in.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150103_11260711cbc.jpg)
Okay thats not the engine but I made chilli because I was going to be driving around the Detroit metro area getting stuck in traffic in this beast then meat (see what I did there?!) up friends and take driving breaks to enjoy chilli.
Here is the breakdown of how to break in a rotary engine, per mazda:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150104_1908464a2d1.jpg)(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150104_190923e4d87.jpg)
Also when you/should you break down, you got chilli. Its win win.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150104_12514302622.jpg)
A locking lid is also REQUIRED...
ASK ME HOW I KNOW!
I managed to put about 200 miles on it this weekend and I drove it to work today, and the carb'd rotary started in 6 degree weather with no issues :)
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So the issue I have right now is the choke cable. not sure how to mount it so it functions properly. it seems to be able to pull the choke fine but to disengage the choke it work. Sometimes its the other way around.
Also, well I'll let you see. ( drove it to work today )
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150105_114540fcc61.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20150105_114533ee19f.jpg)
The whites don't match at all. I am going to have to better match them come spring/summer time.
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The network is back!!!!! Horay!! (still don't have Gchat at work though) Happy Friday bitches!
Well it has been a busy month of ice racing and a rallycross. Unlike most people, February is my busiest month of the year and I don't really celebrate valentines day. Not only is ice racing a blast, it makes for great photos! All those prior build photos were fun and all but now its time to enjoy the fruits of my labor with sweet sweet action shots.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_1424111647526e3595.jpg)
Feb 7th SVR region SCCA , ice runs AT NIGHT! Got to use ALL THE LUMENS. seriously it was a blast. Great way to shakedown the car and see the lighting improvements. added the rallyboobs on for added lulz factor. Much lumen. visibility wow! This group runs rallyX classing but solo scoring rules, so grouped by MR/SR/PR etc but fastest single run out of 4 runs wins.
(no photos due to night)
I won by 40 seconds, if it was rallycross rules I would have won by over 4 minutes. I beat a lot of AWD cars too. Roughly 1.8 mile course, I hit top speeds of 51 (GPS) crossing the finish line
Feb 15th. Furrin Group ice runs, classes separated by drive configuration (SR/MR/PR all one group) and rallyX scoring. Took 3rd. Lost 2nd by 2 seconds and lost 1st by 5. Had a spin on 1 run and did a ride a long with a competitor and gave him good advice that managed to take 2nd from me. All in all. good day. Much shorter course, maybe 3/4 mile and I hit speeds of about 45 crossing the line.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_1424111651124b694b.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_14241116722657fac3.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_1424269449079b9b2f.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_1425050180640bbdac.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_1425050185876cf0fe.jpg)
Also the frankenburban was tow/recovery duty, also fun.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/truck18a42.jpg)
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Feb 21st, round 2 of DET SCCA Rallycross (my 1st rallyX this year). Took 3rd (out of 4) lost 2nd by a cone and lost 1st by about 10. I was real dirty all day hitting cones and had a spin that cost me about 16 seconds off pace. Also the hairpun sucked, it was uphill and icy.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_142487550677806f2e.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_14248755309422bc8a.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_14248756207090ade7.jpg)
Also note that my body damage/headlight is from my co-driver stuffing it into a snowbank from biffing it in the hairpin. Now I need to fix the headlight by swapping the guts into a new housing... wonderful. (PITA)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_14248757538202c693.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_1424875759412f8ac7.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/FB_IMG_1424875848936d3afe.jpg)
Again, suburban was tow/recovery vehicle. best work assignment ever, bluetooth radio and heat in sub 20 degree weather, not to mention be able to sit down.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/truck2652c7.jpg)
Feb 22nd SVR Region ice runs! This time it was a 2.2 mile course and I got to drift an island! (Video to come soon) finish line speeds were up to 65mph, took 1st by 14 seconds this time (had a half spin on my fast run) but rallyX scoring would have been 3 minutes. Automobile magazine was there with their fiesta and they took pictures all day.
Article below:
http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/12_month_car_reviews/1502-2014-ford-fiesta-st-goes-ice-racing/ (http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/12_month_car_reviews/1502-2014-ford-fiesta-st-goes-ice-racing/)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/SVR_IR-800d223.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/02/27/SVR_IR-779cfa0.jpg)
So they drove the fiesta ST with a fastest time of 168.5 seconds to get around, my fastest lap was 166.2 :)
Overall the car performed great ran strong and felt good, the formula works and has worked so now I need to tidy up my driver mod. I was racing rallyX like ice racing, which does not work. Time to re-readjust.
No racing this weekend, (more ice racing feb 7/8th) time to do some repairs and adjustments, more photos soon to come!
I'll give you a hint. "new" wheels, "new" tires, new steering wheel and studs. Diff overhaul is MUCH needed. it hates the ice it is 100% limited to slipping right now.
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Now thats a better steering wheel!
(380MM)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/06/20150228_1210084d46d.jpg)
Then a friend inspired me to get these.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/06/20150305_002746b4ec7.jpg)
and then this happened...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/06/20150306_000004c73f2.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/06/20150305_2359005a24e.jpg)
Ice racing this Sunday and potentially on the 15th as well, so we shall see how these bad boys do...
God I love winter!
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Wow... the FC looks absolutely awesome out there, and I'm sure you're going to tear it up (literally & figuratively) with those studs!
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Results? they worked, AWESOME! However, they were pretty average on snow because the gravel tires are too hard for snow traction so you had to floor it to dig into the ice everywhere. With the warm weather the ice was quite grippy and the heavy melted packing snow was grippy for snow tires.
a couple of fun action shots:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/20/FB_IMG_1425992542187c25f5.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/20/FB_IMG_142599257077916dd5.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/20/FB_IMG_1425992730829ab05a.jpg)
Here is a better picture of the interior:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/20/interiorc2b78.jpg)
and then I got friendly with the machine shop staff at work and they milled me some new steering wheel hub spacers, 1" and .5" out of aluminum now I can toss out that heavy steel one that didn't have the correct pattern on it.
ALL THE ERGONOMICS!!!!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/20/20150316_19314222542.jpg)
Next up?
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I AM DOING!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/20/20150315_19555821279.jpg)
I can rebuild a rotary engine but I am pretty dumb when it comes to setting backlash on a differential. it is time to overhaul the differential's LSD unit. no more limited to slipping differential (is the goal).
Initial tear down was good ( on the spare LSD ) gears and bearings looked fantastic! However, all of my friction plates were about ,05mm undersized standard but still above the "limit" as mazda labels it. My thrust washers were at the limit of wear.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/20/20150319_200640ae15f.jpg)
I'll be honest, I thought a clutch type differential used clutches and plates like some fancy flywheel clutch setup or whats in an auto trans, I was not expected a bunch of metal discs with various grooves. I did find some minor scoring on a few friction discs but overall looked like normal wear.
Then, after that - source a 15.2:1 power steering rack and then de-power it & install into the car. Current non P/S model is 20.4:1 and I find myself chasing the wheel too much, time to quicken it.
After that? May be EFI consideration time, I am at the limit of this carb and new carb is EFI money territory... (megasquirt)
Considering I already have S5 NA upper/lower fuel rails, S4 NA injectors w/ pigtails, S4 Intake manifold (w/ block off plates) and about 11 crank angle sensors (don't ask) There already is an aeromotive adjustable FPR and walbro 255lph for my fuel system so converting back would be simple.
OR toss in a stock NA harness/ecu setup on there and Rtek it?
Still much to think about but in the mean time I would rather just focus on seat time.
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The best explanation of tuning a clutch-type differential (as well as explaining 1-way, 1.5-way vs 2-way diffs, etc) I found was at MotoIQ... hopefully it's helpful for you!
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1322/Project-NSX-Part-2--Tuning-a-Limited-Slip-Differential.aspx (http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1322/Project-NSX-Part-2--Tuning-a-Limited-Slip-Differential.aspx)
If you want to go with MegaSquirt, I'll be glad to help. We could even have a few building-wiring get-togethers with Murz & anyone else interested.
Also... I really hope you had a power drill or something for all those studs... The results look awesome though!
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I'm thinking about it... this carb is too small and I'm at the limit of my balance. it runs too rich going down the road at no load, (10.8-12.2:1 afr) if I lean this out the drivability gets really poor when cracking the throttle because its a thirsty engine. Then above 7500 it can't keep enough fuel in the float system for WOT, its got the largest needle and seat size, I bumped up the pressure, played with the float adjustment. The price of a new carb + jetting would be the cost of a megasquirt setup.
I don't want to build one I just want to buy a built one lol. I'm okay with the wiring but the soldering the board stuff, not interested.
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Made some progress, ended up making my own plug wires. Tach doesn't go all jumpy either because of it. I had my coil to dizzy wire fail, if you were to close to it and between a ground you would get shocked.
Co-driver helped me out with that and then decided to label the switches so he didn't forget what was what:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/03/27/FB_IMG_142746003011619d53.jpg)
2nd rallycross of the year this Sunday and I have some meaty tires to enjoy.
ALSO, I can't tune out this carb and there are no more emulsion tubes that are offered for it, I cannot get rid of the 7krpm lean out issue. The only thing that I seem to be able to control everything else but high rpm high load tuning. I think its time I went back to EFI, so expect a megasquirt or haltec sub build soon.
However in hindsight, I wish I just dropped a renesis into this and avoided a lot of this work...
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I'm not sure a Renesis would have been any less work - there's supposedly a lot that's required to get the ECU to play nice in anything other than an RX-8, unless you had a wrecked one and wanted to transplant most of the electrics into the '7
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I'm not sure a Renesis would have been any less work - there's supposedly a lot that's required to get the ECU to play nice in anything other than an RX-8, unless you had a wrecked one and wanted to transplant most of the electrics into the '7
that would be the idea. You basically insert it all into the fc and then get the ecu flashed by racing beat and fab engine mounts.
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Okay well it has been a while without any updates, mostly because there aren't any!
I fixed a few rx7s here and there:
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/20150429_194315cdedd.jpg)
Found some bitchin mudflaps:
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/20150513_220817b1cf0.jpg)
Then, went racing!
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/FB_IMG_14324727243223889b.jpg)
And over here too:
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/FB_IMG_1433696104480496a1.jpg)
The mudflaps seemed to help!(I guess)
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/FB_IMG_14336967070998f55c.jpg)
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/FB_IMG_143369686080972b87.jpg)
Then I managed to update a few things, rear camber adjustment bar (AWR) and finally replaced/"upgraded" my pesky sticking rear calipers... with new brakes!
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/20150613_17474781f69.jpg)
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/20150613_213513a24c2.jpg)
Never gonna look that nice for a while. My old powdercoated suspension pieces are holding up decent to the abuse.
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/20150614_2057592f69d.jpg)
Took home three 2nd places in a row, to the same driver/car... but a trophy is a trophy
Frankenburban was happy though, solid 10-11mpg or so that trip:
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/20150614_160058f9160.jpg)
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Yesterdays race should have been a victory but I was often chasing the wheel and I lost my 12 second lead into the afternoon runs due to driver error causing me to hit 6 cones :\
Manual steering rack everyone keeps suggesting a quickener because my steering is is 20.3:1 and a powered steering rack is 15.2:1, they are easy to de-power and run as manual racks, I already have a large diameter wheel and plenty of practice on it and broken powersteering FCs, I need the turn in response, if its not enough then I will switch to a quickener setup but one thing at a time.
Also due to my rpm limit I found the need for more RPM. So here is a teaser
(https://picoolio.net/images/2015/06/16/20150615_211329a8d83.jpg)
Next up:
1. Diff overhaul
2. Steering rack swap
3. Microsquirt
SOOOOON
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Okay so It has been a while so here it goes, the last even was good but I knew exactly where to make improvements ( that have been lacking) so back to work! And 10AE is full storage mode now.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/1fa70b.jpg)
…and out with the rear diff! I also changed the differential ear bushings to mazdaspeed competition bushings too and re-drilled/taped the factory breather for NPT so I can run a tube into the cabin for a much dryer breather setup and less change of sloshed oil leaking out of it and making a dirty rally car :D
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151031_18123273240.jpg)
Specifically the LSD part
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151102_201026d1225.jpg)
When you add the wear up it became way undersized on the spec side, most people jam a pop can in there or something but I like doing this right so I don’t have to keep draining shiney from my diff. So I went with mazdaspeed oversized clutches/springs/washers wherever I could, and where I could not I would just use OEM mazda parts.
Link to mazdaspeed competition parts catalog for said parts above:
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs/catalog/07_Differential_Drivetrain.pdf (http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs/catalog/07_Differential_Drivetrain.pdf)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151102_20222304986.jpg)
As you can see, a night and day difference between old/new :
Also between Nov-December event, I managed to install a manual converted power steering rack which has a much faster ratio and I have far less turns to lock, I gain seconds it feels like because each corner I’m working the wheel less. (not pictured)
But with not using rock hard tires, overhauled LSD and a faster ratio rack it yielded this result
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151205_1700157ed56.jpg)
…the car behaved very well actually with just those changes:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151205_170016ff12d.png)
Look at 2:57-3:20, 3:36-3:45, and 9:23ish for yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRxDXvKb8IA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRxDXvKb8IA)
:)
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But I still seem to have issues with popping exhaust gaskets so I decided to go V-Band. I’ve tried RTV copper, refmflex, regular ass copper, cometic style, different flanges, jobber gaskets and etc, so I decided to help the exhaust out a bit (again) and provide it less stress with the flex pipe and better exhaust union…
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151216_144724f2ccc.jpg)
And a little refresh on some polishing abrasives, I have manifold modifying to do.
Safety first!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151218_21111953311.jpg)
I ported/polished another RX7 throttle body, this may marks probably the 15th one I have done…
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151220_15270228cdc.jpg)
More EFI goodness that is all what this is for. I have received a megasquirt 2 setup with ignition and fuel control, microsquirt idea is dead because this was a good deal . Just need to do a little alteration of the harness for my application but more on that later. For me to go to EFI I decided to use the S4 NA manifolds because they have long runners and look like they flow pretty good.
The issue is that I am using a 4 port block but the NA manifolds are 6 port. Here is the block gasket over the current manifold
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151220_1651131ed55.jpg)
So I have to fill the aux ports with J and grind out the new hole.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151220_165300b883d.jpg)
And a rough cut done.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151220_17152905882.jpg)
(I still need to remove the gasket on the engine currently and match the manifold to it so I can have a proper gasket matched block to housing for optimal air flow.
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It is difficult to read this walkthrough (http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/index.asp (http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/index.asp)) for megasquirting an rx7, but it does share good information amongst the chit chat writing style, like this little handy nugget of goodness:
“If you have an NA FC, the Mazda RX-8 (2004 - 2008) 6 port injector is a great choice. They are 450CC, high impedance, and a modern disc design (as opposed to the old pintle style). They are Denso part #N3H313250A 195500-4450 and available at most auto parts stores as well as Mazda. They drop right into the FC but you need to use the appropriate Denso connector. TII owners (550CC injectors) can use the Denso 195500-4460 RX-8 (4 port secondary I believe) injector. It's 540CC which is close enough to the stock 550CC for stock turbo use.”
Look how close they are, they are a direct swap, I can use either o-ring – everything is the same dimension. I am just going to use the correct grommets for the manifold that they are going to.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151220_15271453983.jpg)
I just need to finish cleaning up and modifying the intake manifolds to help simplify the engine package and then finish prepping/cleaning the gasket surfaces to bolt this assembly together.
After that then it is perform minor alterations to the megasquirt setup and integrate it into the car. More soon to follow. I hope to have it EFI by Jan 1st because there is a rallycross I am signed up for Jan 2nd
Stay tuned…
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Glad to see some progress. Ported Four port engine, full exhaust, s4 intake converted to four port, megasquirt, lightweight flywheel... This is going to be the ultimate 1.3 NA rotary. High compression rotors too?
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Wow, staying busy!
How is the wiring & configuration of the MS going?
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Glad to see some progress. Ported Four port engine, full exhaust, s4 intake converted to four port, megasquirt, lightweight flywheel... This is going to be the ultimate 1.3 NA rotary. High compression rotors too?
yup, S5 NA rotors and Rx8 e-shaft/stat gears with the hybrid T2/FD oiling system this thing should be capable of hitting 9000 all day without a squall.
Wow, staying busy!
How is the wiring & configuration of the MS going?
I have correct IAT/CLT sensors/pigtails on order. I have given up on autozone to do anything for me other than buying motor oil.
it comes with a base tune and already has the wiring for stock CAS. I picked up a MS2 setup from a guy on the club who is upgrading to MS3 for his ported boosted application he wants the warning systems and etc.
Once I get the IAT/CLT in I can change all of the wire sensors. I want to do a bench build and have my manifold setup and complete on the kitchen table and then try and work the harness around it and then begin routing wires and replacing connectors.
90% of the wires are labeled and he gave me a diagram to go off of.
I may end up doing a significant re-re-wire of the car because this change is going to get ugly...
I will be leaving for chicago for the holidays tomorrow so the 27th-3rd I will be hitting that part hard.
I can forward you the tune he setup, its a .msq file:
"Attached is the tune for 460cc injectors and stock CAS.
Redline is set at 8000, with a soft cut set at 7800. I found that even with ~400whp, I rarely hit the hard rev cut. Soft cut pulls timing and dampens the redline. It feels a lot smoother and is easier on the engine.
I reloaded Aaroncakes fuel map (VE1) which should work well to get the car idling. My closed loop idle valve map is in there and should help keep the car from stalling. Let me know if you have any questions. I should be able to point you in the right direction."
but I need to re-configure it for the proper CLT/IAT sensors.
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Sounds like a good starting point. I can take a look at the tune & add some bits I've slowly refined in the naturally aspirated portion of the map, especially as far as timing, for the 4-port motor. I'll pull a little bit of timing near WOT since you have the higher CR rotors, and the VE at higher loads may be a shifted to a little lower RPM with the longer NA runners.
If you have any setup questions etc, send me an email or post them here & I'll try to get back to you quickly.
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Whats your email address? I can send it to you.
Do you use a S4 or S5 throttle body? IE more curious about the TPS. I assume I can use the wideband signal of the S5 and just wire it accordingly.
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Well I am not thinking that there will be much ice racing this year with the terrible weather (warm) so here is a video from last year I never posted:
https://youtu.be/d_d31AbG2As (https://youtu.be/d_d31AbG2As)
but anyways….
Back to work! I just imagined my kitchen table was my engine bay and oriented things accordingly and began to swap electrical connections.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/29/20151227_171102f14ff.jpg)
I am unsure of which grommet to exactly use but I have combination of rx8 and rx7 so we shall see what combination of o-ring/grommet will work. The FC/Rx8 part numbers are 90% similar too haha. Now my fuel system has been frankenwankeld as well. Its starting to come to together!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/29/20151229_012015531d0.jpg)
The secondarys seem to fit tighter than the primary ones. Right now I am using this current “strategy”
1. Injector O-ring = rx8
2. Injector upper grommet = rx7
3. Injector lower grommet = rx8
Lets see if I get any vac/fuel leaks…
Now the intake manifold is port matched/gasket matched I can drop them off at the machine shop to get an even finish for best mounting.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/29/20151221_2052427118a.jpg)
However, one of the flanges came out on a bevel and a new middle intake section was required:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/29/20151227_185005ca265.jpg)
Look how flat that is!
Well I have this week off work and a rallycross on the 2nd that I signed up for, so we shall see if I make it or not, but progress is being made. The CLT sensor is swapped and the carb fuel system is removed. Time to bring parts into the garage and out of the kitchen.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/29/20151229_123455acf42.jpg)
Next up? Remove the carb ignition setup and de-integrate it from my body harness and begin routing megasquirt wiring and mounting the ECU under the dash. This WILL take some time…
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I had been using an S4 throttlebody with the short-range TPS, which was good for idle control and driveability, but I retrofitted an S5 cam and wide-range TPS to the S4 TB so that I could use it for boost control. If you're starting with the S5, then just wire the full-range one to the input signal. Just make sure that the sensor itself has a continuous resistance sweep.
My email is SpdstrME07@gmail.com if you want to send me any other Qs
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Thanks for the help Pete!
I made some progress, some partying and some recovering from partying that has delayed some other progress…
But now it is time to move on to the wiring! But before I could add this circuit system I had to clean up some old ones and a make it generally more neat and serviceable. So out with the old! That being said, I do not plan an entire re-wire yet so there is some more patchwork of patchwork. Overall, much simpler.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/02/20151229_175938b9d15.jpg)
I also removed the dashmat I had for this thing and decided to flock it. Did I say flock? Because that was the goal of the appearance I was looking for, its actually herculiner bedliner.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/02/20151231_123910a4914.jpg)
And that took a lot of time to dry actually due to the cold temps, and 2 coats to get a better more even coverage.
And now the ECU is mounted behind the dash (to the dash) and the megasquirt wiring is routed and fuel lines are run.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/02/20151231_123936731bf.jpg)
The eventual goal will be to have an easy to service dashboard/electric array that can be removed easily for any serious servicing fast.
Speaking of out with the old, if you had 12v to 1 of these wires you can have a running 13b with the rest of the parts installed.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/02/20151231_1629292489f.jpg)
I’m just going to box that up for now because I have a spare r8 bellhousing so I am thinking of doing a 13b runstand in the near future : )
SHARING IS CARING!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/02/20160101_19255758996.jpg)
I am going to be using a stock FC ignition for megasquirt so I have a perfect example next to me for wiring.
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I do love machined gasket surfaces and new hardware/hoses! : )
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/11/20160109_213313ada4c.jpg)
I got a lot of progress then nothing for a while, I turned out to have a stomach virus or something that virtually knocked me out for about a week but some more megasquirt integration was going on and then for this to be a proper rally car, I need to have the chassis as good as possible so we began with some rust repair!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/11/20160108_23403243238.jpg)
The car is from the Carolinas, so its mostly rust free but it has seen some Midwest winters and these area are the only areas of question on the car.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/11/20160109_12445274594.jpg)
So step 1 was to remove it…
And see what we got to work with!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/11/20160109_132437bd4b6.jpg)
Followed by step 2. Create mockup templates with the all mighty cardboard.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/11/20160109_13253945260.jpg)
Step 3: Piece it back together
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/11/20160109_180231a64de.jpg)
And then more cardboard and trimming followed by welding to get the end result:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/01/11/20160109_201037a2034.jpg)
I just need to put sealant on the one side the bedliner over it and I can call it a day!
Next up is finish the megasquirt and electrical stuff and actually drive this beast. The weather has dropped drastically in temperatures (FINALLY!) and it has gotten me excited for the chance of ice racing this year.
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Very nice job on that NA LIM - 4 port conversion. I'm actually really anxious on seeing how this performs. I want to, in the future sometime, run this NA intake on my future turbo set up. From what I hear it just flows much better, and has great mid range. Especially compared to the Stock TII intake, being used NA or turbo.
What a mild winter we've had so far, definitely getting cold now though.
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It was a pain in the ass and a lot of JB weld but I went overboard in some areas. I even JB welded the ACV block off plate on so I can get away from that gasket ever leaking haha.
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I don't blame you, that top left part of it seems to be leak-prone. It looks good though.
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here are some delayed pictures of the completed engine bay:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160312_003750f20eb.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160312_0038037c1d1.jpg)
followed by rust repair...
BEFORE:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160312_13264900918.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160312_132630d5150.jpg)
DURING/AFTER:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160312_18192560025.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160312_2017462e247.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160312_234706ee349.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160313_1412540334f.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160313_152558d3678.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160313_16055442138.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160313_1639100e176.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/03/15/20160313_1752211fe6a.jpg)
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Are you sure that alternator wire gauge will be enough? lol! FI install ooks pretty clean.
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made some headway on the MS and learned some stuff but everything had to come out because...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/04/13/FB_IMG_1460562323216e3637.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/04/13/FB_IMG_1460562325732bbd53.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/04/13/FB_IMG_1460562328374cf465.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/04/13/FB_IMG_14605625179056aa34.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/04/13/FB_IMG_14605625870457dd47.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/04/13/FB_IMG_1460562583411c07ee.jpg)
its going to take the plunge into stage rally!!!
here is another teaser pic:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/04/13/20160320_232941a895b.jpg)
stay tuned :)
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That's awesome. Rally is sweet! Nice sun roof.
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Actually I have a lot of updates I have just been lazy on updating this. Also been playing too much Dirt Rally so it has been hard to put down the controller and pick up the wrench…
But anyways, the cage is done! I went and picked it up from TRF (Thompson racing fabrication)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160423_162542e9565.jpg)
Frankenburban doing its civic duty once more, also a very scenic shot of Lake Michigan:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160423_1605479b937.jpg)
As soon as we brought it back I purchased a whiteboard and I highly recommend it! Here is where we started:
(http://[img]http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160507_21313514eb1.jpg)
A LOT to do before summer sno*drift rally (August 6th) which will be our target inaugural rally….
If not this then LSPR but I really want to do an easier rally before that one and shake things down because sno*drift (summer and winter) is only 2.5 hours from my house. LSPR is 10, maybe 11 or 12 at towing speeds.
I do not have many pictures of the cage unpainted because I did not want rust so I instantly got to work brushing it on with some tractor paint, I used about a quart and I had to touch up a lot of areas. Let it dry – repeat and then I could begin working on the remainder.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160428_230832cd595.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160428_231137de0a4.jpg)
When I dropped off the car for the cage I also had a few other things in mind…
Since I added a lot of weight with the cage, I needed to remove it in other areas Enter the lexan rear window!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160428_2313069b79c.jpg)
It came out really good and looked simple to make.
But I ended up adding weight for protection purposes because I have a proper front skid plate:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160428_231522f0d42.jpg)
If you noticed in the earlier cage picture there was a little hint of something neat... I wanted to run to the brake lines in the car (being that rally is abrasive) and now it is easy to service fittings with bulkheads to each wheel well with stainless flex lines going to each caliper. IMAGE MISSING
Because of the cage the 1 piece dashboard is a hassle so now I have split it in 60/40 and grown to accommodate more mounting for switches or fuse boxes/etc. The 40% side handles the megasquirt, the 60% side handles the chassis and cluster. Now both are more serviceable and modular. Here is also a better picture of the hydraulic e-brake with bias valve setup. This was done with the new brake line setup. I hate flaring and bending tubing so I left this with Ryan, it was worth every penny in hours and swearing I don’t have to do.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160618_204551074af.jpg)
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I have been constantly been patching a hacked together harness that has been constantly modified over the years and I have finally given up so I started the wiring over, went to a dry cell battery and routed everything in a nice way. New connectors and properly soldered or crimped. Everything is very serviceable. I have re-wired the entire chassis and integrated the good harness portions into the main harness. Used some weatherproof connectors under the hood for the fuse box. Also I have wrapped everything is anti abrasion wrap instead of cheap plastic autozone special nonsense. I’m sure its expensive but I found it at work so ta da! I started working from the outsides of the car inwards. And since this is going to be a rally car instead of a rallycross car - trees are more of a thing so I am running all of the fuel/electrical/brake lines down the center because should I hit something I don’t want a wire pinched ending my rally or knocking me out of contention.
For this to be a rally car I have to have it road legal, best way to prep the rally car is to follow the tech inspection form and make sure those things work so this includes things like reverse lights, 3rd brake light, horn and a windshield washer system. I had to add these circuits so it was better to start over than to do more patch work.
So with that said, its on the basics – the battery! My welding skills are getting a bit better too, I also have a Mig now (the arc welder is a lot of fun still) I cut up 2 giant U bolts and welded them together. Battery is super secure now.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160626_161548a1b84.jpg)
Also if you notice the strut tower tops have been reinforced. I can weld but when it comes to critical structure. I will pass…
It is a little further back than I wanted but I like having the bucket area open for storage of things for the driver and co-driver and it has a PERFECTLY sized cubby hole for this battery and there is no muffler on this side so no heat risk, help balance the weight since the exhaust runs along the P side. Easy access to electrical connectors and fuse panel should something go wrong. The objective is to make everything easy to service.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160626_1615239543c.jpg)
Here is the current progress:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160623_22545227734.jpg)
A lot done but much more to do. The wiring takes a long time. I probably spent 3 days of wiring on just lamp wiring. I did some cleanup work under the hood too:
BEFORE:
(http://[url=http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20141231_1744542e8c5.jpg]http://picoolio.net/images/2015/01/05/20141231_1744542e8c5.jpg[/url])
AFTER:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160626_20135264a98.jpg)
Much nicer!
and here is some of the cleaned up wiring and added circuits:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160627_13032149628.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160627_130344a67e3.jpg)
Now everything is coming together nicely and I have started working on the dashboard and cleaning that mess up. More modular more easy to service etc.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160623_225442f0bea.jpg)
Still a bit more needs to be done on that but I have finally routed the wires from the front of the car and the back of the car to the dashboard where everything will be controlled. Because of this I have 1 main electrical connection now for under the hood/front of the car, the back has 1 6 pin connector so aside from disconnecting the battery wires its relatively quick disconnect:
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160626_154204680bb.jpg)
This is a weatherpack 22 pin bulkhead connector and its about 25 bucks from amazon and came with some terminals too so it was win-win because I was getting low on weatherpack supplies. I did not count how many circuits I had and I only have 1 pin left unused! :O
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/27/20160625_204726f5e45.jpg)
And this is my pinout diagram. Right now I have tons of small sheets or cardboard pieces and I slowly transfer them to a larger plywood board where I will ultimately make a spreadsheet wiring diagram so I can reference anything or anyone else (volunteer crew) should something fail electrically during a rally.
There has also been some floor repair and minor rust repair but that’s boring so I didn’t take pictures and the latest body repair addition didn’t draw a lot of attention so oh well.
5 weeks left to go!
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looks like a whole new car. I need to swing by and check it out in person sometime soon.
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you would be proud of the wiring.... maybe. haha
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Here is a picture of the rear brake lines, this is at max droop so it should fine if I need to take it over any sweet jumps.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/30/20160627_180418fc1b7.jpg)
This is my male connector wiring diagram. Pretty rad, right?
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/30/20160628_212213b4db0.jpg)
The dashboard heart/brain is coming together. It looks a little messy still but I have 1 last circuit to install. The windshield washer/wiper system.
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/30/20160629_175311e34b3.jpg)
The goal is to use a DPDT toggle switch. I want 1 switch to do wiper and washer system. In the middle the switch is in the off position, flip it up and its just wipers, flip it down and its wipers and washers. I haven’t totally figured out how I am going to wire it up exactly but I think I realistically just need to feed key on 12V to the center pins of the switch and then jumper the 2 poles for only the wiper. Either way the goal is not to fiddle with toggle switches and have my hands focused on the wheel and etc. I do want to try and hit 2 switches at once sorta thing.
Time to check one more thing off the list, a very important thing…
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/06/30/FB_IMG_146714854059630a6e.jpg)
One less hurdle and one important step forward, plus I figure with the EPA bullshit looming of not being able to turn cars into race cars (likely wont pass) I figure if something already is a race car, especially a log booked one, it will be grandfathered in.
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I think if that law passes it will be universally ignored, like the bans on car modification South Africa.
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aaaaaaaaaand its done!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/07/06/20160705_234154460ea.jpg)
everything works too! except I can't find my wideband cable (the shop is a mess) I haven't started the engine yet because of it and especially since I finished late last night.
I have a little more cleaning up to do (and find that cable) then it should be onto tuning
the 500Amp breaker works great but I can only crank it for maybe 10 seconds without it popping the breaker and I can't seem to find a larger one. What do people use for a fuse/breaker when you relocate the battery? I thought 500A would be enough since its a 400CCA battery but I guess not...
Next up is underbody, tuning and then fuel lines (run in the cabin) so I picked up this amazing piece of equipment for helping attach the fenders and fender liners. I don't know why I didn't buy one of these before they are amazing!
(http://picoolio.net/images/2016/07/06/20160630_1715098a081.jpg)
Also we have created a facebook group so we can post silly rx7 or rally things and hopefully share pictures in action and etc.
@Braprally74
or search for Minimal Effort Motorsports (the runner up name was Underfunded Over Budget Racing)
:D
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Cool to see all of this progress coming along. I vote for sweet jumps!
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Well it doesn't look like we are going to race at summer sno*drift. my wideband took a dump so this week we will focus on seat mountings and belt stuff so that we can test the engine/tune until this arrives:
(http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/images/3891_Main.jpg)
I can now calculate the ratio of a ratio of a ratio if I need be but in reality I want to be able to narrow down any fault as quickly as possible. IE if one rotor is dead I know where to start diag-ing or know which fuel injector or plug to check. If something fails on the road or in transit I can minimize diag time by literally 50% and in a rally time penalties can really hurt.
So to run two 02 sensors I had to weld in new bungs, the existing ones had damaged threads and were at the threshold for the distance limit from exhaust outlet so I just went just behind the flange.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GYTE2R245TGRlMlU)
So then with that “settled” and calibrating the 02 sensors to the controllers it was time to set the engine timing and then begin the megasquirt diagnostics…
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GRzFIbUdqZlBwODg)
Then it stopped running (lost fuel) and I enlisted additional help
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GcGdUNDBka3pHUk0)
So I brought out some additional help with fancy tools and had diagnosed a hardware issue. It turned out that trace in the MS2 board that turns on the MOSFET injector drivers was burned so we jumped it with a wire. But because of this I left my ECU with a friend to diag and repair beyond what I was capable of doing so with this few week lead time I began to work on other tasks like underbody but before going on to that I must say that megasquirt has been the worst experience of my (automotive) life, not once but twice, remember this thread years ago? When I failed at it the 1st time then slapped the carb on it and it was “good enough” and was able to still be pretty competitive and this time I had better results but it was still from flawless execution, lots of modifying and checking and diagnostics and failure and repair and repeat. All in all this ECU is all way to configurable for me and is best left to experts I would not recommend this ECU to anyone. I wished I had spent the money (saved the time) and bought a proper haltech unit for this. This ECU is way outside of my comfort zone and if anything starts acting up I’m going to have a difficult time diagnosing it. End rant.
So without an ECU I still had plenty of things I needed to do before stage rally… Time to add grip tape (skateboard tape) to the pedals to keep my feet from slipping, now I just got to add that stuff where my heel wears away the paint on the floor.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GSmNxZWt0V2lJZjQ)
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Then beginning the underbody, I used 3/16ths HDPE (High density poly ethylene) which is super strong and fairly stiff and should protect my ass because my seats are literally sitting on the floor. Step 1 – add reinforcement plates to future mounting areas, step 2 – add weld nuts, step 3 weld on appropriate sized bolt then grind to a point.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GQnJiQlRBTlVhN0U)
I took basic measurements and basically installed the underbody hole by hole. You thread in the bolt with the pointed tip in the affixed weld nut, add paint or marker to the tip, press up on the HDPE sheet then remove the sheet, you then have an indent with a colored point so it is easy to drill a hole. Do this one by one and attach it as you get further back then slowly you start have to a well fitted piece.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GZHBiYWkyWkxBZlk)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GaGJGVU9kSWlDb00)
Not only underbody but above body needed work too, we did not need a sunroof for stage rally so I added a thin sheet of aluminum was RTV’d (for water protection) and then riveted to the roof just like before, but this time I used a thicker sheet so it was a bit harder to form, so I received help from my old engines to keep it in place as I drilled and riveted it down.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GR1IxTFZpWHJPanc)
It looked really bad so I did what “anyone” would do and that’s wrap it with carbon fiber sticker!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GYm03cVNoaWtlYnM)
I don’t want to actually show you what it looked like underneath but lets just say even the average sticker job that I performed is better looking than what’s underneath. Also the added sticker should act like “ belts and suspenders” for water protection. However with the body lines this doesn’t exactly look like a carbon fiber roof but from a distance it could….
A few tweaks to the wiring and gauges, I went with the AEM water temp gauge because I loved the oil pressure gauge so much, the MS now controls the E fan and fuel pump so I am compliant with the rules.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GbVlPMWF1OUVjS2s)
In addition to the underbody I had more flexible sheets of plastic for fender liners and to help close off the skid plate to engine bay. I started making mockups with cardboard but just gave up because they were easy to form and I followed the same process as the HDPE but I was utilizing stainless steel rivet nuts and that the fender liners overlap with the HDPE in the front it should work out great.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GajdLbXkwRHVtMTA)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GaW9KODQzMnlDSGc)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3Gb1VWdEpMSVRBcEk)
So in the end here is the completed underbody!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3Gb3NFZ29xOWhSSnc)
Before we get to the rally weekend story there is some side story from about a year ago that comes into play now…
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Wow, making tons of progress! Do you plan on getting a dyno reading of this? I'd be interested to see what power you're making.
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Wow, making tons of progress! Do you plan on getting a dyno reading of this? I'd be interested to see what power you're making.
Yeah if I haven't been at work I have been working on the garage. No dyno yet - a few more tweaks and then I will be. I am curious too.
Remember this from about a year ago? Well I didn't realize at the time but look at the second place name...
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151205_1700157ed56.jpg)
(http://picoolio.net/images/2015/12/21/20151205_170016ff12d.png)
Ryan Symancek...
aka /drive aka the show My Life as a Rallyist, I never heard of the show or seen the show until about 2 weeks ago and its quite good! You could say we had a similar story - finding rally through video games until college where you would just get by enough to go racing and then pursue that passion...
However that day he was filming, but everyone has cameras at a race event so it would was hard to notice. so it turns out I am "That Guy" and I appear as the antagonist in an episode:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSZLJDqGZPg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSZLJDqGZPg)
It’s a pretty cool video and the series is very good and you should all check it out if you are interested in rally at any level.
Now that being said, it is almost 1 year later I am racing the same car again although completely different car once more and I managed to make it to a special weekend of rallycross with the Detroit region. Saturday afternoon was fun runs because this was our regions annual day/night rallycross - one heat in the day time and 1 heat at night so you can utilize your sweet rally lights so technically you can get 3 heats of racing in if you give 100% participation, and that’s not all - we had an event rained out and re-scheduled for the next day! so a maximum possibility of 5 heats of racing... but this time with a full roll cage, full re-wire, full EFI swap, full underbody protection, rust repair, seat mounts (sounds easy but you try being 6'4" in a sardine can like this) and all the other DOT legal stuff my car was lacking...
The clock starts ticking; I had worked from home that day to continuously finish my preparations for the tow rig and car itself. Its now 8PM Friday night before the race, 12pm the next day is the start of fun runs and registration closes at 1pm.
We began to work on tuning immediately afterwards, but before tuning is possible – running and idling was to be addressed first. Around 9:15pm that night we had sorted out my failed 02 sensor issue and re-cal'd the DLG-1
**NOTE** I have eaten a few 02 sensors in this whole recent process of getting megasquirt functioning properly, every time you go from OFF to ON it runs the heaters (gauge displays HTR for each sensor) to the 02 sensors. I managed to kill an 02 sensor without ever having ran a vehicle for more than 20 combined minutes.
Other issues popped up and were delt with accordingly, nothing out of the ordinary for just having a rough base tune for an entirely different setup.
Last time we had successfully verified that the engine was timed 100% correctly and ignition was working properly. It was right after that moment we lost fuel. No pulse of the injectors. This time we had more luck but we didn't finish the tuning until about 2:00am. A few pulls and driving on the highway, getting fuel from a slow pump, various changes, talking with a police officer (hazards on at the side of the road, safety check kind of thing) but that didn’t stop us – we had finished and we had various 9000 RPMs of brrrrrraaaaaaaaappppppppppp and nothing exploded. It was just after this when I am getting ready to load the car on the trailer and call it a night – I lose 12v power to the passenger side dashboard which provides key on powers to my e-fan, lights, megasquirt and 02 sensor controllers/gauge etc. I had a failed relay and had to dig into the dash to replace and ultimately got the car on the trailer at 3am then proceeded to fall asleep after a hot shower.
With little sleep I wake up – finish packing and then head down about 2 hours south to the dreaded state of Ohio however with construction I missed my exit and have to drive about 5 miles out of the way (no big deal) HOWEVER around this time I notice that my volt gauge on the frankenburban is reading below 12v - my alternator was failing and I was still about 20 minutes away from the race site so kiss the fun runs goodbye . Great thing about an old chevy truck is that there are parts everywhere, so with an added 30 minute delay I changed the alternator in the parking lot and I was on my way again, it almost didn't start because of the lack of battery power but I did have jumper cables and a spare battery just in case... Nice thing about a truck that big is that you can literally carry everything you need and everything you don’t need. However this marks the 6th or 7th time I have driven a vehicle to Ohio and it breaks down…
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3Gbl9NT0twcHVpZW8)
Without entirely testing the car other than a few wot pulls in all gears my stage rally co-driver and I decided to get behind the wheel and give it 10/10ths. 7000 RPM launches and power for days! It was nice being able to spin the engine to 9000 RPM with the carb setup I had reached my limit on that carb through pressure and orifice adjustments so I could not fuel the engine fast enough so it would be too lean above 6500 RPM. Even with a full gravel spare in the trunk and an added roll cage, it feels faster than before. The goal was to beat the snot out of the car and we did for 2 days straight and nothing broke! As a driver I did pretty bad time wise but still put competitive clean timed runs down although I blew both the chances for trophies for both days due to a MAX run each day but the day as a whole was a success. I received a lot of compliments on the noises it made, and on that note… action shots.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GZXptM2lReUpsLVE)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GX0RiYnFqSGh2NmM)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3Gd2ExWXJCTGItcE0)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GM2JBWFF1QWpGODQ)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GaTJRTm9WZ2todU0)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GcXZ0Z1BEZ0Y4Y00)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GN09QY1JBYWMwQVE)
I didn’t have enough time to clean it the dirt on the hood is from the year of sitting…
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Wow, some really neat pictures. I watched that guy's video, really cool, awesome to see you called as out as rival like that, seems like a real cool dude. Always bring spare parts when traveling to Ohio, I've had bad luck with Ohio too.
Those pictures make it look like so much fun!
How's the power band feel compared to the old setup? I will definitely have to go to one of these events just to spectate, looks awesome!
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Waaay better. it is just as strong from idle to 6500 but then it keeps pulling above instead of fall on its face around 7200. It feels strong to about 8700-ish. It is quicker between gears with the EFI sometimes if you didn't shift right it would go outside of its main circuit and have to have the fuel catch up.
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wow, it does sound great in that video! I had a similar problem with the megasquirt early-on, the flyback mosfets for the injectors failed, also burning up a trace. However, with those gone, the injectors would stay on longer than the pulsewidth due to their own impedence, which effectively was delivering about 30% more fuel than I was asking for. That took a couple days of troubleshooting to find - by the end of it I had de-soldered and rebuilt most of the injector circuits
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The Next rallycross is Dec 3rd so in between now and then I need to flush the brake fluid, replace front pads/rotors. I just got stoptech slotted rotors from rockauto at a very good price so I decided to get a matching pair for the front of my rx7. some speeds were top of 2nd gear of me and then it was followed by very tight turn but without braking confidence it was very difficult to shed that speed and keep up with momentum.
this last rallycross was a good shakedown but I will also have to add a cat for stage rally rules and I still have an existing exhaust leak at my only flange surface... so a v-band flange setup should clear that up and instead of a 100% rigid exhaust a flexpipe will added to ensure gasket function retention better and less stress of the engine block studs.
I'm toying with sno*drift this year as my first rally... its close and I know the roads and area very well and if you've been following my thread you know I love going sideways.
I have a small list of things to change to be ready for this and almost 2 months to do so...
This would be my 10th consecutive sno*drift but 1st participation and with the whole RA v ARA nonsense going on right now I wonder if there will be a 2018 sno*drift...
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would be great to see you at sno* drift, the Ferris Bulldog motorsports club will be there to cheer you and dylan Helferich on!
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Dylan is a bulldog too?
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yeah he was in computer science or something, no idea what years he was there though.
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Okay so now I have some overdue updates to share just been too busy wrenching to be taking photos and sharing stories However that has changed but let’s bring you up to speed first
After the brakes were installed and I broke my stud fix We had to get surgical and I had to trim a little on the baseplate and cut/peel away some interior metal to get at the spot welds for the stud as you can see here:
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAbjFyT253SmpCdGc)
With those ground down a quick hit of the hammer and it popped up!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAOTdwbHJyN0g2ZWs)
It is a one piece multi staged tapered and splined bolt so building a new one would be tough and expensive but luckily a buddy of mine has a rusted out parts car (read shell) that we managed to salvage this piece from and re-install it into the rally car! (God I love saying that!)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAWmx4RlgxLXdiRHc)
Prepped the surface and was ready to weld the new one in place and everything bolted together like it should!
Now moving on to the fun stuff instead of fixing my faults… I installed the battle version rear toe links as the ones on the car were original to the car from 86 – the bushings were starting to go and these are lighter and stronger. However the small camber links that link the rear lower control arm to the subframe were also original to the car and developed a clunk in its bushing after the 1st service at sno*drift – these are no longer available from mazda but I think a mcmaster carr heim joint should be sufficient. Now I didn’t have to remove the rear subframe to do the toe links or probably even to fix the subframe chassis stud but it helped. Once we reinstalled that it was time to drop the gas tank because we need gas tank skid protection. If you noticed in the other older photos of the underbody the gas tank is well exposed which is a big no no for rally but perfectly fine for rallycross.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAblNPaWNYVV9mLWs)
So we followed the design of the front but made it serviceable because I need to remove the brace to drain the oil (potentially) or at least when I drop the subframe or diff. We built it out of over/under sized C channel and welded it together, the bottom part unbolts and then its just left with the 2 large C channels that are welded to the frame rail, since the diff cover is aluminum this hangs a little lower to be protection for the diff as well as the gas tank.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAbW5mbHBJR0lHRmc)
So that was the front part of the skid plate the other part was cutting out the rusted wheel well portion and adding L bracket bracing and thicker (18 gauge) sheet of steel, from there we welded and boxed in a C channel with weld nuts.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAMGQ2SWJuaDBlZlk)
Now with these 2 anchor points I ran a partially bent piece of 3/16th 3” wide and ran from brace to brace so I can attach the HPDE sheet
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAaERpeUJXdmZWM00)
Ta da!
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Now since I had some “free time” I was chasing what I thought was a rear main seal or the o-ring that goes around the stationary gear oil leak so to do so you need to pull the engine. (for either one of them)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAakdqSW9ZNjVZelk)
But when I pulled it I realized it was the pan gasket and the rear main/rear stat gear o-ring was fine! No witness marks and dry as a bone! So I pulled the engine and ordered up an oil pan brace and new hardware to hopefully stop this pesky leak. I had to tear apart the baffle and the oil pan constantly cleaning and scraping it was aweful. It took a few days of keeping the garage at 60 degrees and letting the carb clean evaporate and ensure no dirt or dust or oil was left on the gasket surfaces, chase all threads with your taps and add blue Loctite to each new bolt and follow the RTV torque procedure – lets see if this lasts me more than a year. Part of the reason is that I think my solid engine mounts are too stiff so its shaking bolts loose. I may opt to a poly or mazdaspeed hardened rubber in the near future because oil pan gasket leaks are a multi day labor intensive process to do it right and I hate every minute of it. So with that all settled a few days later I still had the engine out of the car I had ordered up a new spec clutch.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAVDRBNUV6UXJSRDA)
This is WITH the optional aluminum billet cover ($200 extra) which was a waste of time and money, the weight savings was negligible and I would not do it again if I had an option. That being said this is the stage 3 cutch which is a sprung hub multi puck design but it is not an organic disc so you can slip/bang/heat the crap out of it and it will hold pressure fine. This is easier on the flywheel and longer lasting.
With the engine re-installed it was time to move on to a lot of little things that I will gloss over required for rally like fire extinguishers, spare tool bag, spill kit/first aid and co –driver light etc etc etc except this part…
You need DOT triangles and these things are HEAVY, they have metal dust in the base as an achor, but the rules let you empty them. Which dropped a lot of mass – then to attach them I used a small section of C-channel from earlier and welded it to the floor face down but I kept a plastic geartie in the channel so I could tie it together and I just jammed all 3 right next to the co –driver so he can hop out and deploy them quickly if (when) we get stuck on stage.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAVGFUT0tpd0NsOTg)
More rally spec stuff required so we had to add a catalytic convertor…
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAVDB6RXJKeUI4SFk)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjANldXZUpMQ1VSTjQ)
But you will notice if you are sharp that there is some extra goodies on the exhaust – went to V-band to avoid pesky gasket failures (sick and tired of these gaskets ALWAYS POPING!) and a small flex section to release some stress from the engine studs since this exhaust is pretty heavy. This cat glows like a Newport – pretty snazzy looking but because of I trimmed the bumper a bit where it goes inboard to the car and added a thin aluminum heat shield so I don’t melt the bumper or set it on fire as it already started to melt in some spots on the several mile commute back from my buddies place where we did the welding.
It quieted it down a bit to the point where we may remove the resonator…
So after that I got some help and fine tuned the engine installed the door panels (pics to come soon) and we were ready for an alignment!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAam5Rdlh4UlFEM2s)
Gave a little more for the rear due to the suspension geometry and it really payed off, car felt fantastic – all the R&R of the subframe and replacing the front ball joints for new ones (just for safety sake) an alignment was needed.
Then only 1 day before Recce we have the car on the trailer and all the gear loaded up with the spares… sno*drift bound!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAMmdRRjFIaERCajQ)
Yes there is no snow there and yes I did bring mud tires just in case but we ended up not needing them. Tuesday night we had made and attached the front mudflaps and tossed all the stickers on - #74 was taken by someone else so I will be using 174 from now on.
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(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjARjB4ZnJKWWNOVnM)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAaXVvT09YZTZRWms)
So now its sno*drift – this is a story in itself (as usual) but overall it was a wonderful experience, Recce was kind of icy/muddy/slushy hard to predict the grip but later that night the temps dropped and snow fell and it was quite icy, which is fine by me – its very predictable… you basically have no grip and you only have momentum and direction with lots of drifty slidey angles of fun-ness….
So we start day 1, make it to the first service, managed to loose a balljoint nut and my shock assembly bolts to the knuckle became loose, other than that no real issues We were getting used to the notes and started to get into the groove a bit although we did stuff it a few times gently.. but gently enough for us the need to get out of the car and push or get spectators to push. Now – time to get to ready for the night stages… and as I launch the rally lights are in full force and the E-fan kicks on as I grab 2nd gear hard and then BOOOM. Well more like a silent awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww because I lost power to my dashboard on the EFI side so we push the car out of the control zone and start diaging and realize that we have blown a fuse that linked 2 fuse boxes together but by this time we had not the right tools or spare parts to repair and sweep had passed us and we were DNF on day one, easy beer fix later that night and we re-enter the rally day two!
Getting more confident in the notes and pushing the car on some spots caused us to have some competitive stage times, however some of that with some note errors led me to stuff it on some low speed corners requiring a few pulls and pushes to get through Saturday. On SS6 we were 14th overall on that stage, 3rd in 2wd, 2nd in G2 and fastest RWD for that stage, we beat a lot of better prepped AWD cars that stage so it felt good. However with this confidence I managed to cause a few snowbanks which dropped us back from 26th overall to last but we did finish our 1st stage rally and you only get one chance at that! Saturday’s event went smoother for service no real issues just check stuff over and all was good, the car held up well and performed great. Now I need to get adjusted to the speed of the sport.
And with that being said, here are the action shots!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAampWS2hfc1JzakU)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAaHZlV2NEYTJ3blU)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAdGlkb1NDMWVWanM)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAUDBMT3E1T2paN2s)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAa1loRzd2VTR2eU0)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAdFBla2NsekE4dE0)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAVjVZMVdWOVM2bkU)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAVWFaTjNkSHlkVk0)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjAVU1HSll4NGdheG8)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjATTJZSEFlMmgxSkU)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0Bwuroy2AQyjATGhpVzV6U1JVYnc)
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It certainly looks like you had a blast! I bet it was a ton of fun
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it was awesome! I can't wait to go back - I took video of most of the stages we have them up on the FB page:
https://www.facebook.com/braprally174 (https://www.facebook.com/braprally174)
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I think I need to do this with the ice racing civic next year.
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Got it Dyno'd last week at my friends shop needless to say I am happy with the numbers, and with a redline of 9000rpm its great to have that much over-rev capability.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GTFJYYUlaVVBLeUk)
the last engine and setup dynoed at 132whp and 121tq @ 6400rpm this is was 182whp and 134tq @7500rpm but even the old engine managed to run a 14.9 in the quarter mile at 81MPH I will be curious to see if this can dip into the 13's or a 14 flat this spring with the gearing improvements and mass reductions.
More power can be gained by shortening the intake runners since they are about 24" long, I'm tempted to toss on the S5 upper intake manifold and see how that affects the numbers but in reality that is too long too. We managed to pick up about 20hp across the range from the base tune that got me through sno*drift. Now I just need to put some attention in a few areas then get more seat time!
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Very impressive, I think your only limitation is the intake now. Are you able to run modified intakes?
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nope! and technically I shouldn't have a streetport... but when I race with other organizations its fine.
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what if you enlarged the intake holes of the throttle body? Granted you need new throttle plates too, but that would allow you to have some increased air flow through it. I forget the company that makes them, but they do require your intake in order to make it.
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That's pretty impressive for what it is. The torque curve is pretty flat too. I think it would be very interesting to see it run the quarter mile. Shouldn't have too much trouble running consistently.
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I think its just barely quick enough for bracket racing so maybe I could earn some cash because being consistent in that vehicle is pretty easy.
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Wow, so that wild-ass-guess base tune from the bottom half of my turbo map got you that far? I'm glad you were able to squeeze a bit more out of it, those are healthy numbers! What did you do to bump up the output - spark advance, more fuel at WOT?
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Well there is room for more I feel, wanna do a tune session together on the dyno sometime?
because mostly I don't understand the ignition side of tuning the rotary and during a practice rally stage i smashed the resonator and during sno*drift i busted it partially too so my exhaust has been somewhat clogged. I have replaced it with a straight pipe and now its loud as hell and could use a retune.
Went to the test and tune for NASA rallysport a few weeks ago and I had a test stage with unlimited laps! did forward and reverse direction split between morning and afternoon runs. The 2.5 minute stage was brief but fun! sand/dirt/rock/field mix so it was pretty good to see how it did on the various surfaces.
also with NASA you do helmet cam :)
https://youtu.be/vQAZk9fOCC8
The car did great the tune did great, we ended up richening the top end a bit but and I was able to pull all the way to 8500 in 3rd gear through the sand, however it still wasn't running totally right and when I got home I found out why that was. I had dented my spiral flow resonator pretty bad.
A few more tweaks and it should be ready, Going to try a stiffer rear spring because its just too soft and squats and under the woops it tends to bottom out and do a tank slaper. Rear skidplate may see an improvement but maybe not until LSPR. Next true event August 5th for summer sno*drift.
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Summer sno*drift is over and it was a complete & utter failure. Some minor tweaks to get through tech (no big deal) and then we were ready but the 1st stage was boulder city - just stones and loose sand everywhere the car shut down about 5 corners in, something with the fuel pump relay - jumped it and kept on going.
about a mile later the exhaust fell off at the v-band due to rocks or something, the car is too low when a full tank of gas and added spare + tools etc with too low of a vehicle to begin with. I will have to upload some video of it - if it was recording... because an open header rotary is loudest thing on the planet, it physical hurt it was so loud but POR! I literally could not hear the co-driver over the volume of it.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GbE1BVWw0ZlRRd3c)
Shortly after that the engine died again and sweep had passed us so we we handed in our time card and we were done for the today. Verified spark/air/fuel and determined it must have been an ECU issue. Luckily the exhaust was dragging behind us hanging on 1 rear hanger. Tossed the exhaust section in the back of heavy sweep and the towed us about a mile to a recoverable area as the the stage was about to be re run shortly.
Found the issue by wiggling the connector and the car fired right up, better than push it up the trailer:
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GSWlYbVZFREl4ejQ)
so we bust ass in service and get a new v-band on the exhaust, weld the 3 pieces together so they don't pop off and help seal some of the exhaust leak as well and fix the connector so that its properly installed. good to go after service and get to start last but we get to start. 1st stage out we get held up by an accident (spun blocking the road) then we basically transited behind 3 other cars to the end.
After that head to stage 6 and it was a blast! saw coolant temps as high as 220F but I didn't care it was running great and we were having fun. Tulips were virtually useless I don't think my co-driver said anything productive on stage all day. Then we got lost heading to stage 7 because we turned on hardwood hills not hardwood road and then got stuck in the sand, giving us a DNF for the day.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B055yI7T7f3GcHBhSE5Qdy1sbmc)
We had issued with tulips on prior transits and caused me to doubt my co-driver. I thought this was the wrong road and we saw some familiar tracks so others made the same mistake but didn't go as far as us, so I went in reverse and kept going the whole way back (1/4 mile or less) then decided to listen to my co-driver once more and went to turn around at a spot but when I lost momentum we were done and just sank.
We missed stage 7 & 8 and didn't even go to parc ferme and did not participate in awards, beaten and ashamed we headed back to camp
but well that's racing... next steps for LSPR? probably not competing - I need to raise this car in the air to gain ground clearance and the proper tow truck needs the engine replaced/rebuilt. it was awful being crammed into an extended cab f150. Probably just going to spectate this year.
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that makes for some rough racing. Hopefully you can get the little bugs sorted out and have better luck for the next race.
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Time to make an RX7 lift kit!
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yup, thats the next step. I think I can get .5 to 1" out of putting spacers on the subframe to lower the car and then get some proper rally shock setup I can increase a few more inches. then we can jump the car!
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Well it’s time to get back to working on the primary project need to correct the issues from the prior failures, the December rallyX went okay even though I was having the misfire but when I added the GIANT mudflaps on for the event it and I wasn’t gunning for championship points since I was in no position to podium for the season so I went hog wild and slide it any chance I could so this photo pretty much sums up the event…
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1UW0fXlE6186ZT4G5pPLdNXOuWPcX02Tm)
Couple big issues,
1. Ride height – its too low
2. Misfire
3. Gas tank protection
4. Car looks like shit
So I have been experimenting with the rear suspension a bit the springs at sno*drift were too soft but decent ride height, the springs at summer sno*drift were good rate but far too low and every other spring out there lowers the car which is bad for rally (obviously) so I have been the goldilocks of springs: This ones too low, this ones not stiff enough, this one is juuuuuuust right.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17DRJ70GlrsH8cStdmhEB74DoHF8WU_Ws)
The RS*R is on the left which is 225lb and ~13” spring, the middle is the stock vert which is ~90lb and 15” spring and the one on the right is a 16” spring with 225lb rate…. Juuuust right! Fun fact the 2.5” coilover springs is a direct bolt on to a rear rx7 shock UNLESS you have a bilstein and in that case the spring perch needs a few minutes on a lathe to go from a 2.8” OD to a 2.5” OD to accommodate, any regular Monroe or KYB/tokicko style will work.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1V2rNJZOH06kFOrYz9pn28g-WPQ20pgho)
So while I wait for this to get completed I move onto the next open item.
I chased a few things down and realized that I should get new plugs and replace the exhaust gasket at the header as this was leaking among fixing the exhaust in general since the SSD incident so that helped but it would still misfire which I found to be bad contacts near the fuel pump relay causing an intermittent connection. With this mended I moved on upgrading the rear skid plate structure it took such a beating that all of it was virtually trash and we started over.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1bTuyF-XQ_dhJKfhe-Z2C5Pn8QwnsfASI)
Due to some work/life events and poor planning I did not have the material to make the structure I wanted with the time we had available so after making a few base plates we decided to move onto what else we could do. The car was starting to look like dog poo or like a bad novel with 50 shades of white. So I wanted this to look somewhat presentable so it was time to clean up the body work because everything else was a hurry up and wait kind of thing.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1IiyZackdekZdsYdUno23w9UmPL80QakZ)
Started out by removing all the stickers and making everything the same white then mark up what it should looks like, unfortunately I will be doing spray paint and this car does deserve better but oh well, it used to be a real nice car
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420028_large.jpg)
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420030_large.jpg)
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420032_large.jpg)
However when I got this car 10 years agoit looked like this:
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420040_large.jpg)
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4728/1841/24318420039_large.jpg)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1TL0sdtjwDQKcYV4TrS2SxIjG3wCLGL93)
But even if you’re not clever you should be able to spot the intent
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Qgd9Nkx4yO3siSjZal6RFICwPqD3-9Ye)
Hopefully some better updates soon, holiday shutdown is upon us which means decent garage time ahead of us.
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Ooh, I'm excited to see how it turns out! I hope to get a couple days of garage time over the break too... just not sure its gonna happen with house projects, family in town, etc.
I'm glad to see the stumbling/misfire issue was taken care of, although the oddities in the MAP signal could still cause a stumble or throttle response issue down the road. Hopefully those look better with the restrictor and shorter vacuum line
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I picked up a restrictor and I will try it out but I've never had an issue of throttle response on this engine.
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To aid with the coil spring indecisiveness for various setups, I figured 1 trip to the hospital would be worth the investment on a proper spring compressor instead of those sketchy threaded clamps.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1GF4v-LniQFC4R3f7j8UBsCMJIG2_K9u-)
They also make swapping out WAY easier and faster which is incredibly useful so I picked this one up second hand for a good deal and quickly made good use out of it. It was minutes on a lathe to get it the right size and I did manage to compress a 16” long 2.5” dia coil spring on it with a stock upper perch. I ordered a new spring rubber top hat too as mine existing ones were rotted away to nothing. However, I decided to go for a proper upper spring perches too and by doing so I managed to get the last FC upper pillow ball shock top from AWR. They have been downsizing rx7 parts in favor for other Mazdas recently… The alternative option is buy a complete coilover version kit and only using 2 parts from it which was not appealing and Mazda sold their last one in August. They are NLA parts now from their competition catalog.
However to fit the 16” spring it was compressed 3” and had so much pre-load that it felt like 1000lb springs instead of 225. So I went with a 14” long spring and it seemed to be the sweet spot.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1l3XI-yE1cXrNY3aG7VpINk7A5bI0e7-F)
…with that being said the paintjob is done! I learned how to use pin striping vinyl tape to make lines and properly mask, it was pretty interesting and challenging experience ( but in a good way). I printed a bunch of photos to use for proportions and kind of eyeballed it. It was painting a color a day for about a week straight.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1PFZli1ioTSnt6CX3Z0RaWm3bkQva_4-C)
But it came out great! A solid 10’er just using rustoleum spray paint. I also used this as a time to increase the serviceability of my mudflaps (now that I have developed a good/proven attachment scheme) with rivet nuts and using oversized flange button cap hardware to keep these functional scrap pieces of mudflaps a functional template.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1resvWLg8uazbHGXoJ8JTM12YKzuVqyQA)
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Not sure what color mudflap I will choose at the moment… but now with this setup it is more serviceable and really easy to install.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1jEUoMHdidk0inCrkIY9fCXrtiJ0LD5PD)
But it works for now so let’s see if it holds up through an ice racing season.
A few daylight shots too on a proper snow covered bitter day!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1peceHrTVskIFqdsVbZ-intuMhj6g5ttO)
I used another big white vinyl sticker over all of the other stickers then painted that to get the roof to be the correct pattern.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1zlhdOBf_jrxx5SsIVYjJaa2g4gLcw6GI)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1KbA70yUkb45yTanbp3B19FPqSZuWQSZN)
The front is actually lowered still so it sits in a drag car mode right now but with the back higher it is much easier for me to get into now lol
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1qLvFPmI9q0VCjiIYOyzMwChV1qPT6ebX)
Since I didn’t have the exact same front end style as the real car and it’s not 4wd it doesn’t have to be an exact copy of the Millen livery so I took to adjustment on the front end because of my fixed light situation, plus the bumper gets so beat up in the front the paint likes to flake off anyways. I figured a fun offset
All loaded up!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1XXJmP1VRbaFB6hRIDlij62J_FlgyexUY)
It did manage to start later that day after being dragged through the cold across the state with the help of some ether with coolant temp gauge reading 12F.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=18Ku8CLyT9tv7Ru2-qKJFCTjkaEufX2m9)
Ta da!
I took it to TRF to do the rear skidplate and structure to support it, I can’t weld aluminum and then we did chat about how to gain a few inches of ride height and travel for the front suspension. currently it has 5-5.5” of travel so that will be fun. No photos of that but I will be sure to show some when its complete. After that is done then it’s going straight to ice racing! As long as the Megasquirt ECU decides to not misfire or anything… So once that is ironed out I can continue putting the stickers on it.
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Wow, that looks great!
I see that you're signed up for the Ross lake event this weekend. I'd have loved to go, but there are too many other things going on this weekend. I could certainly help out with a little more tuning some time, although a dyno (or at least individual exhaust gas temps) are really a necessity to get things dialed in... my butt-dyno isn't really calibrated that finely.
To raise the front end, wouldn't you really just need some longer struts, and then extended & slightly angled LCA ball-joints that push the pivot out a couple inches. They'd need to be slightly bent to square-up the ball joint so that statically it is in the middle of its pivoting range to account for the additional LCA angle. Beyond that, the tie rod would need to be adjusted longer and the hub-side ball joint should probably be tweaked up or down with some spacers to try to get the tie rod and LCA angles about the same when the car is sitting still. If the tie rod is longer than the LCA, its angle should be slightly more level than the LCA so that the toe doesn't change as much under compression; if its shorter than having the same or greater angle is preferable (as long as you aren't binding any of the joints).
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I was thinking something like this:
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0714/2763/products/46mm_Universal_Struts_Dimension_Chart_Drawing_1600.jpg?v=1492209116)
46mm universal motorsport shock. it would beef up the front significantly and I can get it tailored to the right travel and overall shock length :)
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Did you get a new Suburban too?
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I was thinking more about keeping good suspension geometry and avoiding bump-steer or suspension bind once you find a longer strut, both would need to go together
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Did you get a new Suburban too?
yeah, sold the 85 because i was tired of working on the truck and wanted some luxury features like cruise control, AC, and overdrive - that and I didn't want to work on an old turd anymore but i spent all last year working on it because the 6.0 in the HD burb went out. So i spent a bit longer and swapped an 8.1 into it. I'll have to bring it by next time you guys work on the NA motor, except right I fix a bullshit fuel leak at the rail.
Pete I'm down to have you help tune it sometime, dyno time is pretty reasonable at my buddys shop in commerce or take it somewhere else if need be. I have been meaning to get the pineapple racing dual EGT gauge, looks pretty snazzy but I have not pulled the trigger on it yet.
My next step when I grab the car is to put an LED inline with the fuel injectors and see if I'm loosing power to them when it misfires because if they don't flicker its my fuel injector driver again is what I'm thinking.
Or I have a loose fuse
:o :o :o
no idea.
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Rally-America does this for the overall stage winners: was happy to see this!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1iUWWkoTCgp_8ABv-Ht93K8LjMNH6sKdZ)
Some updates I “made” to frankenburban but in reality: it was just being better organized. I wanted to improve the service tool situation as the first sno*drift was a cluster F and it turned out work great during LSPR .
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1kLsbAVbOvOEBIjW-kyBomMx_q5Kq_oeB)
We even managed to do Recce (both times) with the toolbox in the trunk, its more organized than my boxes at home! But it rattles around too much when empty and basically takes up the whole back of the truck which can be inconvenient…
Some more truck updates to come before Southern Ohio Forrest Rally (SOFR – May 18th) like onboard air and general suspension maintenance that has been postponed
I know it was a few months in between the two events and I mostly didn't waste the free time (mostly) as I did make up a pretty good “TO DO” list:
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1wkbbN_5zSNn3w9FNIg_0urzCZawAGhJP)
So I definitely had my work cut out of for me…
I had noticed some play in my steering hub adapter, even so lightly as if it seemed to have play in the splines as you rotate it you could feel it but its hard to tell when you’re bouncing around a stage road at speed so I made it a point to replace this. Imagine my surprise when I saw this!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1kHe-hnfLaP2HksQCeRmMY_i83im7sJNc)
Replaced it with an NRG hub adapter (billet) and after watching the Ken Block video where the cozzie burns to the ground abruptly out on stage after a brief roll I went with a works bell quick release hub, AWESOME product.
So meanwhile I know I have to do the shocks and one of the tie rod ends was starting to wear so I decided to freshen up the steering system as it will need an alignment anyways and now I have spare tire rod ends if I need to finish a rally – spares are good but hopefully never needed…
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But that’s not all for the suspension – I saved the best for last. Bilstein 46mm universal motorsport shocks – custom adapted for the rx7 FC and rally application, the top hats are a custom design from TRF who I had assemble and install these pieces, these things are serviceable with an off the shelf bearing and simple to replace. This allowed me an extra 1.5” of travel and ride height (from stock) so now I won’t be lowered in the front and raised in the rear, the car should handle much better and boy it sure did – noticeable improvements as the next day I took 2nd in rallycross (with 2 spins) and only lost 1st place by 1 cone.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1R_dBcoSwZLo6UUE8Pfvbs0hTXzlfBV00)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1T55ddUdSBIKW9u9XbXnYzjgtHDadoQvc)
The strut tower tops were already a bit beefy and they got even beefier.
I got tired of throwing cones in the front wheel bearings and if anyone here knows how much of a pain these things are a new hub is about 500 dollars but a new bearing is about 20. Don’t follow mazdatrix’s design of grind at 2 opposite ends and that gives you the space to press out the old races, just get a welder and start making a bead all the way around, then you will hit it with a mallet and it will just fall out due to the thermal expansion, it may take a few wacks but it works, you can get it most of the way and use a punch to get the race out the rest then it is just install races as you would normally would with a press.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1FbzBoCRip0HCKgK54U--TEPY7CnK5puH)
With the suspension done it was time to move onto the fuel system.
I had about a 1 psi fuel leak at the sending unit assembly area. The threaded holes are blind and an M3 or M4 fine thread with a very short size overall so very small hardware but if you decide to use a longer bolt (which is easier to install) YOU WILL PUNCTURE THESE BLIND HOLES AND MAKE THEM THROUGH HOLES! Which means that the gasket no longer serves its purpose as it was designed to do. SO I went all out on this repair and was hoping to do it before LSPR but I was able to mend it enough where it was only a weep instead of a leak. Still not ideal though
So I went with the Stu Kelly Motorsports billet aluminum sending unit for AN fittings, also allowing provisions for fuel level sender w/ electrical hookup. Assuming that my existing sending unit was bent or warped.
(https://static.wixstatic.com/media/165c31_41f7326cebca4f25b110f32017d281c3.jpg/v1/fill/w_500,h_667,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/165c31_41f7326cebca4f25b110f32017d281c3.jpg)
And a new gas tank! (which you can still order from Mazda) as for me to repair the threads on the old gas tank was not working with epoxy/JB weld, it would need to be braised and repaired accordingly. Not something I wanted to attempt but I’m sure there are places nearby me in Metro Detroit. You do have to swap over those foam pads ontop of the tank as they are needed to position the tank correctly, this sending unit is a bit tall so I had to put more of the foam on one side so it would tilt downward slightly so the fittings would clear the floor, otherwise they were too tall and it was impossible to install the AN hoses. FYI for anyone using this sending unit.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1NSrwYL1QnqQcfDcv8Udcs59iDVvLKv2H)
I already had AN bulkheads to getting hoses to make the tank to bulkhead connection was easy. Since I was doing all this work and I wanted to do it once, I replaced the fuel pump with the Mazda motorsports fuel pump (stock 20B pump apparently) Now I have a very robust fuel system and out lots of money but at least it is safe and unlikely to burn down now…
Here is good comparison of it next to the walbro
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ENruFxYvpsF_xEC9rF_lTdyvUyEXVWlF)
So with fuel upgraded and an alignment done, wheel bearings replaced in the front the key parts were completed in preparation for SD2019.
Found out I can’t grease my u-joints with the driveshaft installed in the car so I skipped that step and just changed the rear diff fluid because the vent is relocated in the car so I hit water puddles without worrying about water contamination – problem with this is that when you cook the fluid the cab stinks like hot diff fluid which isn’t so great smelling. Never got around to dropping the trans or doing any clutch stuff, everything was working so I didn’t mess with anything, plus if I drop the exhaust I would probably just replace it, it is getting to be in poor shape and I had to patch a few welds to prevent the leaks.
After that it was just remove all of the old Rally-America stickers (that I bought for LSPR… and paid a premium for…) only to install the American Rally Association stickers another big change is going from G2 (2wd limited) to G5 (2d open) because of the rule differences – body work may be modified but must be original material/construction/resemble OEM.
Well my lights are different, the hood is fiberglass, the roof is aluminum and the hatch is plastic.
Also G2/L2WD state no porting can be done but the rule is intended to keep cars under 210-225whp so with the streetport and bodywork and with some recent stage times being overall competitive it was time to go to open class. Now I can loose about 300lbs off the car and still be in the class which will be like adding 30hp in an already quick car for ~190whp.
So Sno*Drift prep is done well what about Sno*drift itself?
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1FTwYH1wJ4HjbsMYVW9QQdsU1xLttElMd)
1st in class regionally! (out of 3) but the other car got stuck for a long time on day 1 as well and the 3rd car DNF’d due to some car issue on Friday. Big change is that the regionally rally is 2 days long instead of two 1 day rallies.
But here is the re-cap:
Day 1 was WITHOUT HEAT!! (due to my own fault for having the heater core plunger in the wrong direction inhibiting the flow of coolant) and temps were as low as -20F. so stage 2 I stuffed it right out of the hole for no reason other than being a jerk, was able to get pulled out minutes later but ended up holding several cars up, only to crash about a mile later (going about 8mph) due to fogged up windshield with our heavy breathing from trying to be unstuck. Got tugged once more and meanwhile struggling to see and concentrate in the cold I biffed a 90* right hand corner that was deceptive #930 in the honda CRZ K series swap pulled us out with extreme enthusiasm (A+ for effort & force) and a few tugs later we were out! The rest of the day was uneventful and we managed to keep it on the road for the tight and rough stages of day 1.
Day 2. was more promising back up to middle pack out on road (and with heat/defrost!, easy fix Friday night, 5 zipties and beer) and I really enjoyed the fast wide roads but managed to make a stupid mistake on a 90* left hander, went wide and beached it about a half mile from the finish at that point, got tugged out again and carried on but this time we did not hold up anyone. Had really enjoyed the 16 mile stage, took 9th overall on the first running of that stage and was 2nd in 2wd behind #845 in the civic (which is a feat in itself as that guy is a local and the honda makes about 250whp) only to find myself passing by camp 8 on the same spot where we visit the folks of Griffin Thermal Products every year for the past 12 years to get stuck on the icy downhill section (I literally have seen dozens of cars get stuck here over the many years, it was no surprise just hot doggin' it like a jerk) Lake Effect Rally Team pulled us out quickly and then had to get the car fired up quickly (fuel pump relay got disconnected on accident by myself) and we continued on the remainder of the stages without incident and placed 10th overall on bonfire alley which was a riot!
Car came out unharmed and we had a great time! So here are the action shots!
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The exhaust is so battered and beaten its time for a fresh start and more appropriate bends/diameter:
(https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2020/07/09/1594303901_cooooooool_mmthumb.jpg)
modular exhaust manifold anyone? This is in Inconel 625 but I can do 316L SS as well.
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So you 3D printed the flanges for a custom exhaust out of Inconel? Pretty awesome! Does your work have a machine?
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yup! we have 4 stateside about 8 others in germany, we don't do inconel here in the states. these are to be shipped over soon though. the outlet of the flange mats perfectly for schedule40 piping so the new exhaust manifold is going to be made shortly
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Wow, that's pretty awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product!
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things are happening!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=16-zZkBVmbw289Arhk3M1SbNWTvOMSIku)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1DKa6HtZulesIxGtWPqkmXlBC0VTucY9k)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1QcDQ2jCZrGaf7X_QInQql3XqUUCEvv73)
So right now the first 12" are sch40 piping so its a true 2" ID, the inconel outlet flanges taper gradually to this size for a perfect flush fit. the rest of the tubing will be done with 1.875" 16 gauge, my overall runner length is now 1 foot shorter but I have also now made it equal runners.
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That is looking great. Can't wait to see it finished
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its getting there!
(https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2020/09/23/1600890829_119961504_686719848608499_1563928950035327586_n_mmthumb.png)
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Wow, looking great! Those flanges are pretty awesome, lots of surface area to shed heat. You may need to do some heat shielding for the intake and vac lines etc above them
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we are going to have to test that theory, thermal conductivity of a mild steel is almost 27 BTU/ft-hr-f where as stainless steels around 10 and inconel625 is about 6.
luckily there are no vac lines over there, I just have MAP/brake booster/FPR and they are well out of the way.
The exhaust will also get ceramic coated once done so that will help too.