Michigan Rotary Club
Generation Specific => 2nd Generation Specific => 2nd Generation Build Thread => : Senketsu May 29, 2016, 03:46:39 PM
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I've been interested in FC's since I was first exposed to ITSWILL's 20b car a few years ago and after joining a chumpcar team with a few of the members here I decided to just get me one.
She's a beat GXL, but she looks worse then she really is. Needs to be cleaned more than anything else, under the skin she's mint min us the enine and the driver side dor handle. I plan on getting her running by the end of July, seeing what I think of the NA rotary, and then either building the rotary or swapping in a turbo chevy 4.8.
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Awesome!! So, no compression? have you confirmed this at all? Arctic Silver = Best color for RX7s!
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I haven'the confirmed it yet. She still needs a battery so I can crank her and the gas in the tank has sat for a while, so I probably should drain it.
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Glad you picked it up. We can get it running. Definitely check the compression before pulling, it will give a great idea of what we are dealing with.
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Well it's time to pull the engine. Gonna fix up my dad's car to make room in the shop and then the fun can begin. For those curious, the highest compression I saw out of either rotor was ~5psi so something is REALLY wrong. As far as the direction of this project, I think for now I'm just going to do a light restoration with extremely light mods (put together interior, retouch the paint, new head unit/speakers, rebuild/replace engine as necessary, new tires/wheels, lower her a little bit).
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Found somebody selling a running 13b for 400$ which is just a little more than the atkins rotary rebuild kit A. I've made plans to pick it up on the 19th and then the real fun can start.
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sounds good.
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SWEET!!!!! Also, a rebuild usually starts at $1300! So, you'll have a running RX7 for like, 1k at the most?
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Yeah round about 1k. I should be getting all the lines I need to reactivate my OMP too.
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Cool
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Today I got Racing Beat Y-pipe and learned that ITSWILL, Murz, and Groll69 had conspired behind my back to give me almost every piece of a racing beat exhaust. I am EXTREMELY thankful for the parts! Now, down to the business of the person I assume you want me to kill for this...
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Awesome! Just need mufflers now!
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I bought an engine today! One step closer to having ber driveable!
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Sweet! Can't really tell by that picture, but how does she look? Anything out of the ordinary?
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nope, looked fine to me, but I'm far from an expert on 13b's so that's not exactly a guarantee of quality.
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Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like you got a very complete engine!
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as far as I can tell everything is there minus the throttle body, but I already have one of those so it's not a big deal. It does slightly complicate the task of reviving the OMP, but I don't think it complicates things that much.
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Snapped better pics a little earlier. Pretty much everything but the throttle body included.
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Looks like you even got the air pump
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Looks good! There's a bunch of crap you can delete off of it too. Depends on how far you want to go with an Emissions delete. I'd keep most of it, but the ACV, airpump, coolant injector cold start assist thing +reservoir can probably go without noticing anything.
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Thanks for the suggestions Murz. It sounds the like the Riv is going to dominate the shop this week, so I can't pull the engine til the weekend. I may as well delete those while I can't do anything else.
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I've got an extra ACV delete plate you could have as well. Yeah right now would be the time to get all the little stuff done to the engine. That engine was running when you got it right?
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yeah it was running. The guy I bought it from pulled it from an '87 GXL that he's swapping a 1UZ into.
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Being an 87, makes me wonder, you may have lower impedance injectors on that engine, 87 they had both types, but your current chassis (88) is most likely High impedance. I'd check the secondary injectors on the upper intake, I believe if the tab on the connector is offset it's HI, and if it's centered it's LI. If you DO have LI and need to run HI, I have some. The current injector connects won't fit any LI injector, what I've done is just filed off the tabs if it comes to it. Prevents having to re-wire the harness connectors.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/rotary%20pages/injector%20folder/injector.html (http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/rotary%20pages/injector%20folder/injector.html)
I'd want to make sure of this before I ever start it.
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I'd love an ACV block off plate! then all I should need is a dual belt pulley. Do you recommend blocking off the EGR? I've seen plates for doing it, but from what I've read there's no real reason to do it if your idle is good.
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So I should grind down the connector and put a resistor in the line, I can do that. I could also swap the HI injectors over, but I don't trust them at all, I'd have to test them before doing anything else.
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You'd have to grind down the tab that's on the injector connector. My HI injectors work, I guarentee it:) they're off of my running NA engine, which I had flow tested and cleaned prior to.
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I'd block off the EGR if you want to simplify things, but if it's working then just leave it I guess.
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You'd have to grind down the tab that's on the injector connector. My HI injectors work, I guarentee it:) they're off of my running NA engine, which I had flow tested and cleaned prior to.
I can bench test my HI injectors to make sure they work if it really comes down to that, but I'll probably just adapt for the working LIs.
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I would leave the EGR. It is used to dilute the fuel mixture to avoid engine detonation.
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I could be wrong, but I thought it only functions at light load and under 3k RPMs? If it's working I'd keep it, my 86 when it was stock was stuck open.
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Also, another thing I thought of, is to block off the fuel pulsation dampener. A lot of people will swear by it and say it shouldn't be blocked off, but there have been many burned down RX7s because of it leaking, and no negative effects are known from blocking it off. You should be able to get to it easily with the engine out, as it sits on the primary fuel rail.
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I didn't know you could block that off, but it's good that you can. According to the previous owner the dampener on the engine that came with my car ignited the engine at one point.
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Its fine if you block it off, the issue is dampening out the fuel pulses which can be done elsewhere in the line I believe. If you can keep a proper steady pressure then its all good. If your using an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, I think that in itself dampens out the fuel pulses so the damper become irrelevant. I am not 100% positive so it is worth some deeper investigating before blocking it off. If the damper caused the fire, I hope that what is on there is a new damper. if it is new, I would leave it.
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Based on what I've read deleting the dampener doesn't noticeably affect lightly modified or stock rotaries. Given that it lowers my chance and of catching on fire and only requires parts I already have and some time, I'm just going to do it. http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_84-88_fuel_pulsation_dampener.html (http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_84-88_fuel_pulsation_dampener.html)
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Good, probably the best thing to do, especially since the car already caught fire! Looks like the dampener is situated on the front side of the engine, may be a bit more of a pain to get off that way.
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Pulsation dampers are generally there to reduce fuel pulsation noise. Never had a problem with one in my experience.
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well all it takes to bypass them is the banjo bolt off my slightly crispy 88 fuel rail, and I've heard of enough cars that have had this problem for me to take it seriously.
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How goes the build??
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Where'd you go?
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I'm still here, but between working, going to school, and a few other unexpected family/personal things I haven't had much time to work on the car. Things are finally freeing up some and over the past weekend so I cleaned the garage and I got into the trans a little bit. Thought I would just change the shift return spring, attach to the motor and drop the assembly in place, but found the shift rod was loose and no gears were engaging so I pulled it apart. Everything looks good, just came off the shift forks I guess. I need to replace the tailshaft bushing and rear main seal (hopefully tomorrow) and then this weekend I want the engine and trans in place.
Stupid question: where can I get replacement studs for a racing beat presilencer? Am I better off pulling whats left of the existing studs and threading the holes?
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Just get the old crap out of there and put some bolts in.
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okay, so here's a major project update for those curious
what's new:
I installed the manual steering rack, replaced the worn out components in the trans and reassembled it, attached it to the replacement engine, stripped the components that I no longer need off the engine, got the engine/trans in place and bolted them in the car, and I've begun hooking everything back up to the engine.
still to do before the end of November:
I have to hang the exhaust (which is ready to go in), replace some melted connectors and finish repairing some chewed up sections in the wiring harness (which I suspect are causing my parasitic drain and headlight issues), once the wiring harness is done I can reinstall the intake manifold and throttle body, and I'll replace/refill/bleed all the fluids in her. She'll still need more work, but she should be able to move under her own power. Unfortunately I'm losing my garage space soon, so that's probably all that will get done before the cold ends my fun. Just enough to move her under her own power to a spot where she can hibernate...
things to do next year:
-fix parasitic drain and get the pop-ups working (if repairing the rodent damage in the wiring harness doesn't solve this)
-replace shocks and springs
-replace fuel pump and lines
-install DTSS eliminators
-replace missing bits of carpet
-restore paint
-reassemble dash
things to do some time way in the future:
-replacing all carpet/headliner
-reupholstering seats
-window tint
-nitrous (maybe)
-new paint (blue)
and that should pretty much cover things
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How is everything going? Did you get this thing running?