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Parts for Sale/Wanted / RockAuto Now Offers JTE Replacement Wheels!
« Last post by RockAuto on February 19, 2018, 07:05:13 AM »
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login now offers JTE replacement wheels for many cars and trucks, everything from a 1989 Pontiac Grand AM to a 2017 Toyota Tundra! JTE's new aluminum alloy and steel wheels are guaranteed to match their OE (original equipment) counterparts in safety, fit, finish and durability.

For some vehicles, You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login also has JTE OE Take Off wheels (OE wheels removed at a dealership from the original vehicle to be replaced by a different style) for a much lower price than buying a new replacement wheel directly from a dealership!

Catalog selection showing availability of OE Take Off wheels

Whether you want to upgrade your wheels to make your vehicle stand out, need to replace a damaged wheel or want a matching wheel for a full-size spare tire, You are not allowed to view links. Register or Loginhas what you need at the reliably low prices you expect. Find JTE wheels and center caps for your specific car or truck in the 'Wheel' category of the You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login.


2nd Generation Build Thread / Re: dandoes FC3S
« Last post by dandoe on January 16, 2018, 10:32:14 AM »
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Looks great. Just a few finishing touches left I assume. I heard you moved?

Yea it is basically ready to fire. I had a bad fuel leak on my cheaper fuel rail which was due to them supplying copper crush washers for ORB fittings. I ordered a nice Radium rail and im installing new injector o rings before i can start her up. Currently living in Dallas!! hope all is well
Parts for Sale/Wanted / RockAuto Now Offers Batteries!
« Last post by RockAuto on January 15, 2018, 08:14:50 AM »
You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login Now Offers Batteries!

If you drive a 30+ year old car, waiting to replace the battery until it is eight years old and can barely spin the starter risks leaving you stranded. With a modern vehicle, a dying battery also may accelerate wear on an electrical/charging system that is already working overtime to cope with numerous computers, multiple fuel injectors per cylinder, entertainment systems, heated seats, electric power steering and/or other electronics. Do you really want that kind stranger to jump-start your computer-laden 2013 Dodge Durango with her trusty 1980 Ford Bronco? Replacing the battery should be routine preventative maintenance instead of exciting crisis management.

You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login now offers ACDelco, Deka, Exide and Motorcraft AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries! 4X4 enthusiasts and racing teams have long relied on AGM batteries to withstand extreme vibrations off-road and on the track. AGM batteries are now an affordable, dependable, durable and safer battery for daily-drivers as well. A leaking traditional flooded lead-acid battery could always cause damage under the hood. Many newer cars have the battery mounted in the trunk (boot) or interior where leaks can create a whole new set of problems.

Lasting up to twice as long as a comparable flooded lead-acid battery, you can be assured you will get great value from your AGM battery - especially at RockAuto's reliably low prices!

To see the Battery options we have for your specific vehicle, go to the You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login and click on the "Electrical" category. Order a replacement AGM battery today and avoid getting stranded out in the cold. (AGM batteries are extremely heat tolerant as well!)
2nd Generation Specific / My 1990 vert
« Last post by awfc3s on January 15, 2018, 07:59:05 AM »
So I know that some of you guys already have seen this in person or have heard about it, so I figured I'd actually start a thread about my convertible and the plans that I have for it.

I bought this car march 2017 from a kid in Kentucky. It was originally a Georgia car which was super appealing to me for obvious reasons. The kid was young and though I could tell that his intentions were good, his skills weren't. The car came NA when I bought it, but that wouldn't be in there long as my plans are to turbo swap it. Got the car back to the shop (old shop now) so it could meet its siblings and get started on the restoration.

The car needed quite a bit of work. It only had half of the interior in it and some of it was trash. So I took everything out and started from zero.

The floor pan as you can see was getting a little rusty from all of the holes in the top. So I made sure to clean that up. Wasn't really any big deal, all surface stuff.

I then started to procure newish interior parts from a local rotard that basically has his own rotary junkyard. He told me to come out and pull whatever I wanted and we would settle up at the end.

Back to the shop I go with my new parts and my ambition. Started throwing the interior back in, which is very difficult when you are working with 27 year old plastics.

The interior is completely finished now with seats in it. Just don't have any pictures at the moment.

On to the engine....

So I pulled the NA engine, which still ran pretty solid once all the vacuum leaks were sealed up. Rich (~Groll69~) decided he wanted it for his FC so that's where it went in case you were going to ask me if I still had it lol.

Engine bay was disgusting and I needed to get it clean asap. You can clearly tell which side I cleaned in this picture...

Got an engine from some importer, can't remember the name right now. Engine arrived so I started taking off and putting on what was needed. decided to go with an ACT street clutch as my only plans for this car is to enjoy nice spirited drives on nice sunny days. Racing beat aluminum flywheel and ACT pressure plate. In it goes...

This car was originally an auto and the trans mount didn't line up so I had to buy this adapter to make everything fit. The kid had just 2 pieces of bar stock and some bolts on the NA trans holding everything in. Not the greatest, but I guess with a low HP car it worked fine. I wasn't going to go that route. As you can see, this bracket is pretty solid.

Since I have done all of this my wife and I moved to a new house back in May and had our shop finished being built by September. It's in there now just sitting waiting to be worked on. I need to swap the engine harness over to a LHD harness and do a ton of little things. After I get the new engine in the drift car I'll get back to working on this. Hopefully I can get this thing going by early spring. Even if the top isn't done, I will still drive it on days with 0% chance of rain and just leave the top down.

More updates will come as I get the opportunity.
2nd Generation Specific / Re: Starting the tear down
« Last post by awfc3s on January 15, 2018, 07:24:29 AM »
The rest of the engine looked spotless though. Not bad for a junk yard block getting the shit kicked out of it for several years.
2nd Generation Specific / Re: Starting the tear down
« Last post by awfc3s on January 15, 2018, 07:22:20 AM »
Just realized that I hadn't given an update to this. Found out exactly what happened...

Found some metal in the oil and attached to the drain plug:

Broken valve spring caused this...
2nd Generation Build Thread / Re: 1988 "20B"/13b... TII
« Last post by fidelity101 on January 14, 2018, 08:05:28 PM »
I did that before, worked out great  - you can just order up high quality hardware from mcmaster carr and call it good.
2nd Generation Build Thread / Re: FC Rallycross/Stage Rally/Ice Racer
« Last post by fidelity101 on January 13, 2018, 02:59:42 PM »
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Did you get a new Suburban too?

yeah, sold the 85 because i was tired of working on the truck and wanted some luxury features like cruise control, AC, and overdrive - that and I didn't want to work on an old turd anymore but i spent all last year working on it because the 6.0 in the HD burb went out. So i spent a bit longer and swapped an 8.1 into it. I'll have to bring it by next time you guys work on the NA motor, except right I fix a bullshit fuel leak at the rail.

Pete I'm down to have you help tune it sometime, dyno time is pretty reasonable at my buddys shop in commerce or take it somewhere else if need be. I have been meaning to get the pineapple racing dual EGT gauge, looks pretty snazzy but I have not pulled the trigger on it yet.

My next step when I grab the car is to put an LED inline with the fuel injectors and see if I'm loosing power to them when it misfires because if they don't flicker its my fuel injector driver again is what I'm thinking.

Or I have a loose fuse

 :o :o :o

no idea.
2nd Generation Build Thread / Re: FC Rallycross/Stage Rally/Ice Racer
« Last post by toplessFC3Sman on January 12, 2018, 04:46:36 PM »
I was thinking more about keeping good suspension geometry and avoiding bump-steer or suspension bind once you find a longer strut, both would need to go together
2nd Generation Build Thread / Re: 1988 20B TII
« Last post by ITSWILL on January 12, 2018, 03:11:09 PM »
I forgot to mention I got these in last week.

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They are 2.5" diameter by 2 inch tall aluminum round stock.  I paid $15 for them on ebay.
I'm going to drill a 3/8 hole in the center of them and use them for solid engine mounts. 
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